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Do you know the difference between Cement and Concrete? Now...

Today is such a beautiful day! I have always found Thursdays to be a bit boring, but today is such a nice day. I figured that since I am in such a good mood, we could do something “educational”. Instead of giving you the inside scoop today, I am going to give you information. Doesn’t that sound fun? Well let us get to it. Be prepared to learn a lot, because I know you do not know much about cement.

Many people talk about cement when they mean concrete.

Cement is a fine-grained compound that turns into a solid when mixed with water. Cement is used to bind mixtures of materials into a composite solid.

Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand and gravel. That is, cement is the glue of concrete. Now that we have made that clear, let us talk about cement. Cement begins with lime.

Lime, the First Cement

Lime is a substance used since ancient times to make useful things like plaster and mortar. Lime is made by burning, or calcining, limestone-and that is how limestone gets its name. Chemically, lime is calcium oxide (CaO) and is made by roasting calcite (CaCO3) to drive off carbon dioxide (CO2). That CO2, a greenhouse gas, is produced in great quantities by the cement industry.

Lime is also called quicklime or calx (from Latin, where we also get the word calcium). In old murder mysteries, quicklime is sprinkled on victims to dissolve their bodies because it is very caustic.

Mixed with water, lime slowly turns into the mineral portlandite in the reaction CaO + H2O = Ca(OH)2. Lime is generally slaked, that is, mixed with an excess of water so it stays fluid. Slaked lime continues to harden over a period of weeks. Mixed with sand and other ingredients, slaked lime cement can be packed between stones or bricks in a wall (as mortar) or spread over the surface of a wall (as render or plaster). There, over the next several weeks or even years, it reacts with CO2 in the air to form calcite again-artificial limestone!

Concrete made with lime cement is known from archaeological sites in both the New and Old World, some more than 5000 years old. It works extremely well in dry conditions. It has two drawbacks: Lime cement takes a long time to cure, and while the ancient world had lots of time, today time is money.

Lime cement does not harden in water but stays soft, that is, it is not a hydraulic cement. So, there are many situations where it cannot be used.

Ancient Hydraulic Cement

The Pyramids of Egypt are said to contain a hydraulic cement based on dissolved silica. If that 4500-year-old formula can be confirmed and revived, it would be a great thing. However, today’s cement has a different pedigree that is still quite ancient.

Around 1000 BCE, the ancient Greeks were the first to have a lucky accident, mixing lime with fine volcanic ash. Ash can be thought of as naturally calcined rock, leaving silicon in a chemically active state like the calcium in calcined limestone. When this lime-ash mixture is slaked, a completely new substance is formed: calcium silicate hydrate or what cement chemists call C-S-H (approximately SiCa2O4 · xH2O).

C-S-H is still a mysterious substance today, but we know it is an amorphous gel without any set crystalline structure. It hardens fast, even in water. In addition, it is more durable than lime cement.

The ancient Greeks put this new cement to use in new and valuable ways, building concrete cisterns that survive to this day. But Roman engineers mastered the technology and constructed seaports, aqueducts and temples of concrete as well. Some of these structures are as good as ever today, two thousand years later. However, the formula for Roman cement was lost with the fall of the Roman Empire.

Modern Hydraulic Cement

While lime cement continued in use throughout the Dark and Middle Ages, true hydraulic cement was not rediscovered until the late 1700s. English and French experimenters learned that a calcined mixture of limestone and claystone could be made into hydraulic cement. One English version was dubbed “Portland cement” for its resemblance to the white limestone of the Isle of Portland, and the name soon extended to all cement made by this process.

Shortly thereafter, American makers found clay-bearing limestone’s that yielded excellent hydraulic cement with little or no processing. This cheap natural cement made up the bulk of American concrete for most of the 1800s, and most of it came from the town of Rosendale in southern New York.

Rosendale was practically a generic name for natural cement, although other manufacturers were in Pennsylvania, Indiana and Kentucky. Rosendale cement is in the Brooklyn Bridge, the U.S. Capitol building, most 19th-century military buildings, the base of the Statue of Liberty and many other places. With the rising need to maintain historic structures using historically appropriate materials, Rosendale natural cement is being revived.

True Portland cement slowly gained popularity in America as standards advanced and the pace of building quickened. Portland cement is more expensive, but it can be made anywhere the ingredients can be assembled instead of relying on a lucky rock formation. It also cures faster, an advantage when building skyscrapers a floor at a time. Today’s default cement is some version of Portland cement.

Modern Portland Cement

Today limestone and clay-containing rocks are sintered-roasted together at nearly melting temperature-at 1400° to 1500°C. The product is a lumpy mixture of stable compounds called clinker. Clinker contains iron (Fe) and aluminum (Al) as well as silicon and calcium, in four main compounds:

  • Alite (Ca3SiO5)
  • Belite (Ca2SiO4), known to geologists as larnite
  • Aluminate (Ca3Al2O6)
  • Ferrite (Ca2AlFeO5)

Clinker is ground to powder and mixed with a small amount of gypsum, which slows down the hardening process. And that is Portland cement.

 

 

Making Concrete

Cement is mixed with water, sand and gravel to make concrete. Pure cement is useless because it shrinks and cracks; it is also much more expensive than sand and gravel. As the mixture cures, four main substances are produced:

  • C-S-H
  • Portlandite
  • Ettringite (Ca6Al2(SO4)3(OH)12 26H2O; includes some Fe)
  • Monosulfate ([Ca2(Al,Fe)(OH)6] (SO4,OH,etc) xH2O)

The details of all this are an intricate specialty, making concrete as sophisticated a technology as anything in your computer. Yet basic concrete mix is practically stupid proof, simple enough for you and me to use. You see though we are smarter than that, we will not go around messing with cement and concrete mixes, because we know we should leave that to the professionals. So if you need a professional, check out repairfinders.com where they have only the best in the business, and you will never be let down. Jack is over and out.

 

 

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DIY or call a professional? (The facts about Auto body work)

Do it yourself Auto bodywork was taken from: http://www.helium.com/items/1086080-auto-body-repair-and-repainting. It is a brief overview of how to do auto body work, yourself. It takes a lot of time, patience, and will power to get this done. Not everyone was made to do this on their own, so if like me you slightly cringe to the thought of having to fix your car up yourself do not worry. There is hope for us on repairfinders.com!

If one were to consider in doing-it-yourself auto body repair, you should have some basic interest in working with metal sheets. To do this kind of metal working the basic tools needed to repair dents and small rust holes are:

1. Ball peen Hammer

2. Rubber Mallet

3. Metal dolly

4. Tinsmith’s Spoons

5. Wire brush, steel or bronze

 

 

Working on dents does not necessarily mean hammering the body part to its original shape. All that is needed is to work back the dent to about at least 1/8 of an inch to its original shape. Making it shape to almost original will be completed by applying body filler and putty. In the process of gently hammering back the dent, paint will either chip-off or crack. It will be necessary to do the following:

1. Sandpaper away the paint and surrounding areas up to about 2 inches away from the exposed metal. Try to “feather-off” the paint meeting the bare metal to allow proper adherence of the body filler to be applied. Use 120 grit sand paper for this. Wet sanding is advisable then wipe thoroughly dry.

2. Dab the exposed metal with rubbing alcohol or anti-rust compound. Make sure to avoid applying it on the painted area.

3. If rust is evident, use steel brush or bronze brush to remove, if possible, all traces of rust.

4. It is at your option to thinly hand paint with primer the bare metal if it is not larger than the size of your palm.

5. Let the area dry completely before applying body filler. If you are a beginner, most body fillers come in two parts. The hardener, usually in a small plastic tube, is the catalyst to harden the compound. Use it sparingly because using too much will cause the filler to harden real fast in a couple of minutes. Mix the compound well and apply with gentle pressure in one direction to fill the depression on the body. Apply the filler close to the nearest undamaged paint.

6. After the body filler has hardened and dried wet sand gently with 320 grit sand paper to follow the contour of the body. Make sure that the body filler feathers where it meets with the original paint. Feathering means there is no ridge felt when you run your fingertips on where the ends meet. It takes time to be accurately sensitive to feel this difference to the touch. Running over the ends several times with your closed palm and fingertips will give you the “feel”.

7. To complete the filling, apply very thinly, glazing putting over the body filler to cover slight imperfections and pores. Again wet sand with 600 grit sand paper the entire area that you worked on. Overlap slightly sanding on the original paint. Let dry completely.

8. Apply primer surfacer spray (available in aerosol cans) with a color closest to your original paint. After the primer has completely dried, wet sand again with used 600 grit sand paper or new 800 grit sand paper. Wipe and let dry completely.

9. Apply paint color of your car from four to six coats letting each coat dry completely before applying the next coat. If the color code of your paint is available, normally you can get them too in aerosol cans.

10. After the final coat has completely dried, wet sand the finish very lightly with 1000 grit sand paper.

11. To bring out the sheen and luster of the paint job and blend it to the original, rub the entire work with fine rubbing compound with consistent light pressure strokes. Wipe off the repaired area and buff with circular motion.

Tips on Spray Painting:

NOTE: Know if your original paint is enamel, lacquer or acrylic. NEVER apply acrylic over enamel or lacquer finish. Enamel or lacquer over acrylic is just fine.

Mask off areas not to be painted.

Hold the spray about eight to ten inches away from the area.

Spraying motion should be back and forth overlapping each stroke by about 1/3 of its width.

Spray stroke speed should be close to 1 foot per second but not faster.

Release trigger or button away and past the work area if you need to stop or pause.

If a mistake or error was made and defect shows on paint applied, let dry completely then wet sand area with 1000 grit sand paper. When dry, resume painting finish.

To add shine and luster protect color, you can spray a clear coat to the last color coat.

 

 

Now all of this is fine and dandy, but if you are like me and now you might screw your vehicle up more, make a smart decision, and go to repairfinders.com. On repairfinders.com you can browse through dozens of custom auto body shops in your area. Get a real professional to do this heavy-duty job for you. In addition, the great thing about repairfinders.com is that you know you are getting only THE BEST in the business, as we only host honest, hardworking, reliable businesses and individuals. If you are ready to see a major improvement in not only your car, but also other everyday things, check it out today. In fact, I am going to hop on right now, and see if I can find someone to do something about these hairline scratches on the back of my car.

 

 

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