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Paint Types in House Painting

Choosing your paint is probably the most important thing you will do on your project. This is because most paints are designed for a specific purpose. Primer paints are designed to adhere to raw surfaces and then to stick to a protective coat over the top of it. In general, there are four types of raw surfaces that you might want to paint over, wood, masonry, drywall, and bare metal. You should be able to find a primer that will work on your bare surface. Do not be tempted to simply skip the primer coat as finish paints will sometimes not stick well to the surface, especially metals.

The big question for many painters is whether they should use oil or water based paints. Glossy oils tend to be more impermeable to water and will bubble up if the surface beneath is damp. Latex and other water based paints will make wallpaper peel. Industry experts have argued for a long time over which formula is better in general. For exterior applications, water-based paints have the upper hand. Besides allowing the house to breathe, they tend not to crack as readily. In addition, they have the great advantage of water clean up. In addition, if you are worried about the ultimate environmental impact, water-based paints tend to be friendlier to the eco-system. Oil paints usually have a stronger and more overpowering odor. You should always ventilate well when painting, but it will seem even more vital with oil-based paints.

Even so, oil is often the choice to make, especially when painting over a surface that was previously painted with an oil base. If you simply must use a water-based paint over an oil-based paint, you should sand down the finish then prime it so that the paints will adhere to each other.

Although the price is not always the best indicator of quality, it does serve as a good general guideline. Also, the warrantee on paint will indicate how long it is likely to last. Remember that even inexpensive paint is relatively cheap when compared to the amount of time it takes to apply it. Better to have a durable paint that lasts a few extra years than a cheap one that gives out in less than five years.

Pigments in paints also make a difference. Cheaper paints often have cheaper pigments, so they tend not to cover as well, requiring more than one coat. Here again labor is a factor. Two coats of a paint that costs you half as much, is really only doubling your labor. Yellows tend to be the fastest fading color. Titanium dioxide is reported to be the best pigment. If you are buying an expensive paint, be sure to check the can for this ingredient.

Solids are included in paints to thicken the coating. It is calculated as the percentage of the paint that finally adheres to the wall. Solids generally run more than 40 percent of the paint. Higher than 45 is considered good. Do not look for this item on the can, as it is not usually on the label. The solids and pigment are held together with binders. In an acrylic paint, you will want to have all-acrylic binders for exterior paint. For interior paints, this factor is not as important.

Oil and acrylic will both cover most exterior surfaces, but stucco is a special case. Be sure to use an elastomeric paint, which continues to cover small cracks that can develop. Old aluminum siding can be painted. The old paint should be removed and a coat of latex primer and an additional coat or two of exterior paint can then be applied for an acceptable and durable finish.

When you go into the paint store, you will be confronted with flat, satin, and glossy paints. You should use flat for general background surfaces that are not subject to much wear and tear. Satin is better in bathrooms and kitchens where you would like to be able to clean the surface repeatedly over the years. Glossy paints accentuate a surface and bring people’s attention to it. It also tends to be easier to wipe clean. Use glossy paints on cabinets, banisters, some molding and places where little fingers are constantly smudging. Remember, though glossy paints are easier to clean, they tend to show imperfections in wood, drywall, etc.

It probably goes without saying that you should use exterior paints outside and interior paints on the inside. The fact is that exterior paints are designed to be more durable in the elements and interior paints are designed to adhere better to surfaces commonly found indoors. Recent years have brought about advancements in eco-friendly paints with zero or low VOCs. These are worth checking into especially for those who have health concerns or who frequently work with paint.

If you are looking for a hardworking, reliable, and trustworthy person to paint the interior or exterior of your home, the only place to search is on Repairfinders.com. On this site it will only take you a couple of minutes to find a qualified professional in your area who is more than happy to paint your home, quickly, efficiently, and for a reasonable price. For all your repair needs there is only one place to go, and that is Repairfinders.com

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Skylights, saving you energy and money with a natural light...

Nearly everyone likes skylights. They let in light and warmth, provide a convenient place to hang indoor plants, and simply brighten up an entire room. Properly installed, roof skylights can add a touch of class to even a rather drab kitchen, bathroom or other room in your house. However, old and leaking, or incorrectly installed roof skylights are a never-ending nightmare that will have you swearing never to have another skylight in your house.

Skylights come in many shapes and sizes, and may be traditional glass or the lighter weight vinyl skylight with plastic glazing. They can be flat or domed, and you can combine multiple skylights for a lighting effect that will reduce your utility bill. Even if you have an attic, you can still have skylights in the form of tubular skylights, which use long metal tubes-also called “sun tunnels” to reflect the light down into your room.

When you purchase a skylight, it will usually come with everything needed to install it except the tools and the carpenter. The smaller skylights, especially the tubular skylights, look deceptively easy to install, but we do not recommend installing them yourself. You might pay a professional a few hundred dollars to do it right, but cutting a hole in your roof is not something for an amateur to do. If you accidentally cut in just slightly the wrong place, cut the hole the wrong size, seal the flashing incorrectly, or damage any of your roof tiles in the process, you will wish you had never thought about skylights. In addition, if a skylight leaks, you cannot only end up replacing your roof, but also the ceiling beneath it along with the insulation or anything else that the water was able to reach. Correctly installed, however, a skylight will be as stable and dependable as the rest of your roof, and you will enjoy the ambiance for many years.

The following tips will help you find the right skylight and the right contractor to put them in your home.

Consider the design and location of your home. If you are in a southern climate, you probably will not want skylights on the south side of the house unless you also install some sort of reflective blinds. Otherwise, you will have both light and heat, driving your air conditioning bill up during the summer. In colder climates with more moderate summers, the blinds are and option.

Ask the contractor for references. How many other skylights has he installed? Try to contact people who have used his services and look at their skylights. If you cannot arrange an opportunity to inspect installed skylights in other homes, at least get some reactions from other customers. Would they use that contractor again?

What warranty is offered? If there is any problem with the skylight once it has been installed, will the contractor return to fix it? For how long? What is the warranty on the skylight itself if it happens to be defective? (Although it can happen, a leaking skylight is seldom the result of defective material. Ninety percent of the time, a leaking skylight is the result of improper installation or of taking shortcuts in an attempt to save time and money.)

If you already have a skylight and just need to replace it-and there is no need to replace the roof itself-the task will be simpler and less expensive. If you are installing a new skylight, it will obviously cost more. However, save up the money and have it done correctly the first time. You will never regret erring on the side of caution.

By letting natural light stream in, skylights fill rooms with warmth and a feeling of spaciousness. By reducing the need for electric lighting and adding winter warmth, they help trim energy bills. Moreover, clear ones give you a window to the starry night sky.

A skylight is like a window in the roof, but its frame is designed and flashed to withstand the rigors of rainfall that a roof receives. As shown here, a skylight’s flashing works in concert with the roofing material to usher away rain and snow.

Newer skylights are virtually leak-free, thanks to rugged construction and easy-to-install, integral flashings. They are also equipped with channels that carry away condensation.

Though some frames are solid wood or aluminum, most new skylights are made of a combination of metal, vinyl and wood. The exterior frames tend to be aluminum cladding with a durable finish–the part you see inside is often made of solid wood, plywood or white vinyl.

Some skylights are glazed with acrylic or polycarbonate, others with glass. Plastic ones are lightweight, economical choices often put where a skylight could be easily broken. Because they are molded, they come only in standard sizes and shapes: flat rectangles, bubbles, domes, pyramids, ridge-shaped, dormer models, and so forth.

Many people prefer Glass because it does not scratch as readily as plastic does and because it is available in nearly limitless sizes and types. You can get single, double or triple glazing with energy-saving low-E glass or argon-gas-filled panes. For use where the sun may damage carpets and furniture with ultra-violet (UV) rays, you can get bronze-tinted or other UV-blocking glass.

Other options for eliminating or reducing the sun when it is not wanted include built-in blinds, horizontal curtains or shades and UV-blocking insect screens. Cross-section view of a glass skylight shows key parts and how the flashing provides continuous drainage down the roof. A skylight’s shaft governs how light is delivered to the room below. If all four sides are flared, light spreads over a wide area. A shaft with perpendicular sides focuses the light straight below. If the shaft is flared on only one or two sides, it sprays more light in the flared direction.

If you are interested in getting skylights in your home, the best place to look is on Repairfinders.com. On this site, many contractors in your area are willing to assist you with this. Remember not only does having a skylight help the environment, but it also save you money, gives you beautiful natural light, makes rooms look larger, and adds to the quality of your property.

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A nice way to bring a little elegance to any room.

See here is the deal. There is a lot I know about hardwood flooring, and there is a lot that many of you do not know about hardwood flooring. There are also many things I really want to let out to the public, so that customers can be more informed. If you are looking for a decent person to lay down flooring for you the first place you should always go is Repairfinders.com!

What to expect from…

Installation of Prefinished Floors

A basic definition of prefinished flooring is when the boards that are to be installed already have finish on them. In fact, most companies put from 5-9 coats of finish on their prefinished wood.

Prefinished Hardwood floors are quite popular right now, because they have many advantages over the alternative, site-finished floors:

  1. During installation, you skip all the dusty mess that goes along with sanding
  2. The boards are already finished, so as soon as they are down you can walk on them. No waiting for the horrid-smelling finish to dry.
  3. Since the boards are finished in a factory and have 5-9 coats, the finish is very hard, smooth, and durable.
  4. Because sanding and finishing is skipped, a prefinished floor can be installed in half the time, saving you money on labor.

There are, however, a few disadvantages to prefinished floors:

  1. Borders, inlays, and other fancy flooring tricks are hard or impossible for the installer to do, because they usually require sanding.
  2. When boards are cut in the factory, the heights and thicknesses can vary by up to 1/32nd of an inch. Because of this, in order to avoid sharp edges, all prefinished boards are beveled on all sides. This creates grooves between every board, and accentuates the seams (note: Some people like this look, but few like the feel on their bare feet).
  3. The wood is more expensive (although since you save money on labor, your ending price is usually very similar to the price of site-finished).

For most people, the only disadvantage to prefinished flooring is #2. Since the floor is not sanded after it is installed, there will be unevenness that the installer has no control over.

 

 

What to expect from the finished product.

Nail holes/heads. The installer should set all nails and fill all holes. As a result, there should be no visible nail heads or nail holes. However, if you kneel down and look closely, you should be able to find where the nail holes used to be, because no wood filler (or wood putty) can be a perfect match to a wood grain.

In addition, there should only be a few nail holes in most floors. In fact, most of the time, a simple, square room can be installed without any nail holes at all. However, keep in mind that many situations will require a board to be top-nailed, resulting in nail holes.

Cracks and Creases. Any time a board comes together with another board, it forms a crease. These creases are what make hardwood floors look how they do. On a prefinished floor, these creases are much more pronounced, because the edges of each board are beveled down at about a 45-degree angle. there is nothing the installer can do about these bevels, except to sand down the whole floor and refinish it, which negates the purpose of a prefinished floor, and is not the installers responsibility (In other words, you would have to pay extra for it (probably at least $2.50 per square foot extra)).

When you look at a hardwood floor, there are the creases that go along the length of the wood, and go all the way across the floor (with the grain), and there are small creases in between boards in the same row (against the grain). The smaller creases, as a rule, should be evenly distributed around the floor, with none coming within 6 or 8 inches of each other. Seams that are close together, or clumped in one area, leaving another area seamless, are the signs of a poor installation job. They are not, however, a good enough reason to demand that your floor be ripped up and reinstalled at the installers expense. Usually in those cases, you have hired a very inexpensive installer, and you got what you paid for. If it is a big deal to you, you might talk about getting the floor redone at a discounted cost.

Any crease in a wood floor has a chance of becoming a crack, for various reasons. One may be a milling imperfection in some of the boards (such as one board being slightly thinner than another is). Expansion and contraction may be another reason. In general, wood will expand in the summer and contract (shrink) in the winter. This causes gaps to open up between boards. It is not always good to fill these cracks, because when the boards expand again, it could push the filler out, or even buckle the wood.

On the other hand, cracks that are caused by milling imperfections or installation mistakes/problems should be filled by the installer (with the possible exception of smaller cracks if significant expansion is expected after the installation).

After installation, there should be (in most cases) no visible cracks when viewed semi-casually from a standing position (and without a magnifying glass, please).

 

 

Scratches, gouges and other surface problems should not be visible when the installer is done. If the board was damaged when it arrived at your house, the installer should not have installed it. If it happened after the installation, but the damage was caused by the installer, he/she is responsible to fill it, fix it, or replace the boards affected. If, however, the damage is caused by another contractor or worker, or any residents or guests in the house, the installer is not responsible to fix it, and is perfectly within his/her rights to charge extra if you want it fixed (However, charging extra to fix one small scratch that he/she can fix in two minutes, may be considered a little rude).

Expansion Gaps. Because wood expands and contracts (due mostly to changing humidity and temperature), installers will leave expansion gaps between the wood and everything else (walls, other floors, etc.). In general, these gaps are between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. This can create a problem sometimes on remodeling jobs, especially in kitchens.

Many houses do not have any trim (or baseboard) around the bottom of the cabinets in the kitchen. When wood floors are installed in these conditions, there will be a visible, ugly expansion gap left over. The homeowner should work with the installer to select (and pay for) baseboards, trims, or caulk solution.

 

 

Baseboards. It is common for the installer to remove and reinstall baseboards when he is hired to install a floor (for a price that should be included in the estimate). This can sometimes cause problems with older baseboards. The installer is responsible for any damage done to the baseboards due to his/her own negligence or hurriedness. The installer is not responsible for any damage that already existed, or that occurred because of the brittle state of the baseboards or excessive fastening to the wall (i.e. too many nails and/or glue). Be prepared to deal with at least one broken piece of baseboard. Many times the damage can be fixed with a little painter’s caulk and a coat of paint, so do not get too broken up about it.

In conclusion, please remember that it is a floor and it is meant to be walked on. If you get down on your hands and knees and study the floor, you will find cracks, holes, scratches, and many other imperfections. When inspecting a floor, it should be done from a standing position in normal light. If you can see problems from that position, that is when you should point them out to the installer. People who refuse to pay because of common imperfections that are expected in wood floors are setting themselves up to be blacklisted or overcharged by other contractors in the future. Nobody wants to deal with an unreasonable customer.

To find a qualified professional who can complete this for you and much more, the best place to go is Repairfinders.com. On repairfinders.com you will find dozens of listings in your area, that are hardworking, honest, and reliable. Check it out today and don’t forget all the businesses listed offer free quotes!

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