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Paint Types in House Painting

Choosing your paint is probably the most important thing you will do on your project. This is because most paints are designed for a specific purpose. Primer paints are designed to adhere to raw surfaces and then to stick to a protective coat over the top of it. In general, there are four types of raw surfaces that you might want to paint over, wood, masonry, drywall, and bare metal. You should be able to find a primer that will work on your bare surface. Do not be tempted to simply skip the primer coat as finish paints will sometimes not stick well to the surface, especially metals.

The big question for many painters is whether they should use oil or water based paints. Glossy oils tend to be more impermeable to water and will bubble up if the surface beneath is damp. Latex and other water based paints will make wallpaper peel. Industry experts have argued for a long time over which formula is better in general. For exterior applications, water-based paints have the upper hand. Besides allowing the house to breathe, they tend not to crack as readily. In addition, they have the great advantage of water clean up. In addition, if you are worried about the ultimate environmental impact, water-based paints tend to be friendlier to the eco-system. Oil paints usually have a stronger and more overpowering odor. You should always ventilate well when painting, but it will seem even more vital with oil-based paints.

Even so, oil is often the choice to make, especially when painting over a surface that was previously painted with an oil base. If you simply must use a water-based paint over an oil-based paint, you should sand down the finish then prime it so that the paints will adhere to each other.

Although the price is not always the best indicator of quality, it does serve as a good general guideline. Also, the warrantee on paint will indicate how long it is likely to last. Remember that even inexpensive paint is relatively cheap when compared to the amount of time it takes to apply it. Better to have a durable paint that lasts a few extra years than a cheap one that gives out in less than five years.

Pigments in paints also make a difference. Cheaper paints often have cheaper pigments, so they tend not to cover as well, requiring more than one coat. Here again labor is a factor. Two coats of a paint that costs you half as much, is really only doubling your labor. Yellows tend to be the fastest fading color. Titanium dioxide is reported to be the best pigment. If you are buying an expensive paint, be sure to check the can for this ingredient.

Solids are included in paints to thicken the coating. It is calculated as the percentage of the paint that finally adheres to the wall. Solids generally run more than 40 percent of the paint. Higher than 45 is considered good. Do not look for this item on the can, as it is not usually on the label. The solids and pigment are held together with binders. In an acrylic paint, you will want to have all-acrylic binders for exterior paint. For interior paints, this factor is not as important.

Oil and acrylic will both cover most exterior surfaces, but stucco is a special case. Be sure to use an elastomeric paint, which continues to cover small cracks that can develop. Old aluminum siding can be painted. The old paint should be removed and a coat of latex primer and an additional coat or two of exterior paint can then be applied for an acceptable and durable finish.

When you go into the paint store, you will be confronted with flat, satin, and glossy paints. You should use flat for general background surfaces that are not subject to much wear and tear. Satin is better in bathrooms and kitchens where you would like to be able to clean the surface repeatedly over the years. Glossy paints accentuate a surface and bring people’s attention to it. It also tends to be easier to wipe clean. Use glossy paints on cabinets, banisters, some molding and places where little fingers are constantly smudging. Remember, though glossy paints are easier to clean, they tend to show imperfections in wood, drywall, etc.

It probably goes without saying that you should use exterior paints outside and interior paints on the inside. The fact is that exterior paints are designed to be more durable in the elements and interior paints are designed to adhere better to surfaces commonly found indoors. Recent years have brought about advancements in eco-friendly paints with zero or low VOCs. These are worth checking into especially for those who have health concerns or who frequently work with paint.

If you are looking for a hardworking, reliable, and trustworthy person to paint the interior or exterior of your home, the only place to search is on Repairfinders.com. On this site it will only take you a couple of minutes to find a qualified professional in your area who is more than happy to paint your home, quickly, efficiently, and for a reasonable price. For all your repair needs there is only one place to go, and that is Repairfinders.com

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A nice way to bring a little elegance to any room.

See here is the deal. There is a lot I know about hardwood flooring, and there is a lot that many of you do not know about hardwood flooring. There are also many things I really want to let out to the public, so that customers can be more informed. If you are looking for a decent person to lay down flooring for you the first place you should always go is Repairfinders.com!

What to expect from…

Installation of Prefinished Floors

A basic definition of prefinished flooring is when the boards that are to be installed already have finish on them. In fact, most companies put from 5-9 coats of finish on their prefinished wood.

Prefinished Hardwood floors are quite popular right now, because they have many advantages over the alternative, site-finished floors:

  1. During installation, you skip all the dusty mess that goes along with sanding
  2. The boards are already finished, so as soon as they are down you can walk on them. No waiting for the horrid-smelling finish to dry.
  3. Since the boards are finished in a factory and have 5-9 coats, the finish is very hard, smooth, and durable.
  4. Because sanding and finishing is skipped, a prefinished floor can be installed in half the time, saving you money on labor.

There are, however, a few disadvantages to prefinished floors:

  1. Borders, inlays, and other fancy flooring tricks are hard or impossible for the installer to do, because they usually require sanding.
  2. When boards are cut in the factory, the heights and thicknesses can vary by up to 1/32nd of an inch. Because of this, in order to avoid sharp edges, all prefinished boards are beveled on all sides. This creates grooves between every board, and accentuates the seams (note: Some people like this look, but few like the feel on their bare feet).
  3. The wood is more expensive (although since you save money on labor, your ending price is usually very similar to the price of site-finished).

For most people, the only disadvantage to prefinished flooring is #2. Since the floor is not sanded after it is installed, there will be unevenness that the installer has no control over.

 

 

What to expect from the finished product.

Nail holes/heads. The installer should set all nails and fill all holes. As a result, there should be no visible nail heads or nail holes. However, if you kneel down and look closely, you should be able to find where the nail holes used to be, because no wood filler (or wood putty) can be a perfect match to a wood grain.

In addition, there should only be a few nail holes in most floors. In fact, most of the time, a simple, square room can be installed without any nail holes at all. However, keep in mind that many situations will require a board to be top-nailed, resulting in nail holes.

Cracks and Creases. Any time a board comes together with another board, it forms a crease. These creases are what make hardwood floors look how they do. On a prefinished floor, these creases are much more pronounced, because the edges of each board are beveled down at about a 45-degree angle. there is nothing the installer can do about these bevels, except to sand down the whole floor and refinish it, which negates the purpose of a prefinished floor, and is not the installers responsibility (In other words, you would have to pay extra for it (probably at least $2.50 per square foot extra)).

When you look at a hardwood floor, there are the creases that go along the length of the wood, and go all the way across the floor (with the grain), and there are small creases in between boards in the same row (against the grain). The smaller creases, as a rule, should be evenly distributed around the floor, with none coming within 6 or 8 inches of each other. Seams that are close together, or clumped in one area, leaving another area seamless, are the signs of a poor installation job. They are not, however, a good enough reason to demand that your floor be ripped up and reinstalled at the installers expense. Usually in those cases, you have hired a very inexpensive installer, and you got what you paid for. If it is a big deal to you, you might talk about getting the floor redone at a discounted cost.

Any crease in a wood floor has a chance of becoming a crack, for various reasons. One may be a milling imperfection in some of the boards (such as one board being slightly thinner than another is). Expansion and contraction may be another reason. In general, wood will expand in the summer and contract (shrink) in the winter. This causes gaps to open up between boards. It is not always good to fill these cracks, because when the boards expand again, it could push the filler out, or even buckle the wood.

On the other hand, cracks that are caused by milling imperfections or installation mistakes/problems should be filled by the installer (with the possible exception of smaller cracks if significant expansion is expected after the installation).

After installation, there should be (in most cases) no visible cracks when viewed semi-casually from a standing position (and without a magnifying glass, please).

 

 

Scratches, gouges and other surface problems should not be visible when the installer is done. If the board was damaged when it arrived at your house, the installer should not have installed it. If it happened after the installation, but the damage was caused by the installer, he/she is responsible to fill it, fix it, or replace the boards affected. If, however, the damage is caused by another contractor or worker, or any residents or guests in the house, the installer is not responsible to fix it, and is perfectly within his/her rights to charge extra if you want it fixed (However, charging extra to fix one small scratch that he/she can fix in two minutes, may be considered a little rude).

Expansion Gaps. Because wood expands and contracts (due mostly to changing humidity and temperature), installers will leave expansion gaps between the wood and everything else (walls, other floors, etc.). In general, these gaps are between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. This can create a problem sometimes on remodeling jobs, especially in kitchens.

Many houses do not have any trim (or baseboard) around the bottom of the cabinets in the kitchen. When wood floors are installed in these conditions, there will be a visible, ugly expansion gap left over. The homeowner should work with the installer to select (and pay for) baseboards, trims, or caulk solution.

 

 

Baseboards. It is common for the installer to remove and reinstall baseboards when he is hired to install a floor (for a price that should be included in the estimate). This can sometimes cause problems with older baseboards. The installer is responsible for any damage done to the baseboards due to his/her own negligence or hurriedness. The installer is not responsible for any damage that already existed, or that occurred because of the brittle state of the baseboards or excessive fastening to the wall (i.e. too many nails and/or glue). Be prepared to deal with at least one broken piece of baseboard. Many times the damage can be fixed with a little painter’s caulk and a coat of paint, so do not get too broken up about it.

In conclusion, please remember that it is a floor and it is meant to be walked on. If you get down on your hands and knees and study the floor, you will find cracks, holes, scratches, and many other imperfections. When inspecting a floor, it should be done from a standing position in normal light. If you can see problems from that position, that is when you should point them out to the installer. People who refuse to pay because of common imperfections that are expected in wood floors are setting themselves up to be blacklisted or overcharged by other contractors in the future. Nobody wants to deal with an unreasonable customer.

To find a qualified professional who can complete this for you and much more, the best place to go is Repairfinders.com. On repairfinders.com you will find dozens of listings in your area, that are hardworking, honest, and reliable. Check it out today and don’t forget all the businesses listed offer free quotes!

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