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Getting rid of Bees and Wasps in your home.

Wasps and bees are beneficial insects, although they are generally considered pests because of their ability to sting. Wasps, in particular, can become a problem in autumn when they may disrupt many outdoor activities. People often mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees”. While both social wasps and bees live in colonies ruled by queens and maintained by workers, they look and behave differently. It is important to distinguish between these insects because different methods may be necessary to control them if they become a nuisance.

Appearance

Wasps have a slender body with a narrow waist, slender, cylindrical legs, and appear smoothed-skinned and shiny. Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps are the most common types of wasps encountered by people.

Bees are robust-bodied and very hairy compared with wasps. Their hind legs are flattened for collecting and transporting pollen. Bees are important pollinators. Honeybees are responsible for more than 80% of the pollination required by most fruits, legumes, and vegetable seed plants as well as many ornamentals that are grown in our landscapes. Bumblebees are important pollinators of native prairie plants.

Food Preferences

Wasps are predators, feeding insects and other arthropods to their young, which develop in the nest. They are beneficial because they prey on many insects, including caterpillars, flies, crickets, and other pests. During late summer and fall, as queens stop laying eggs and their nests decline, wasps change their food gathering priorities and are more interested in collecting sweets and other carbohydrates. Some wasps may become aggressive scavengers around human food and may be common around outdoor activities where food or drinks are served.

Bees feed only on nectar (carbohydrates) and pollen (protein) from flowers. Honeybees sometimes visit trashcans and soft-drink containers to feed on sugary foods.

Nesting Sites

Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps make nests from a papery pulp comprised of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Yellow jacket and bald faced hornet nests consist of a series of rounded combs stacked in tiers. These combs are covered by an envelope consisting of several layers of pulp. Paper wasps construct only one comb without any protective envelope. These insects are sometimes known as umbrella wasps because of the shape of their nest.

Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps nest in quiet, out of the way places. Unfortunately, in urban areas this may conflict with people and their interests.

Yellow jackets commonly build nests below ground in old rodent burrows or other cavities. They can also build nests in trees, shrubs, under eaves, and inside attics or wall voids. Bald faced hornets commonly build nests in the open in trees as well as under eaves and along the sides of buildings.

Paper wasps build nests under any horizontal surface and are commonly found on limbs, overhangs, eaves of buildings, beams and supports in attics, garages, barns, sheds, and other similar places.

Honeybees make a series of vertical honeycombs made of wax. Their colonies are mostly in manufactured hives but they do occasionally nest in cavities in large trees, voids in building walls, or other protected areas.

Bumblebees use old mice burrows, cavities in buildings, and other locations to make their nests. Like honey bees, bumble bees make cells of wax.

Life Cycle of Wasps and Bees

and bumblebees have annual colonies that last for only one year. The colony dies in the fall with only the newly produced queens surviving the winter. The new queens leave their nests during late summer and mate with males. The queens then seek out overwintering sites, such as under loose bark, in rotted logs, under siding or tile, and in other small crevices and spaces, where they become dormant. These queens become active the following spring when temperatures warm. They search for favorable nesting sites to construct new nests. They do not reuse old nests.

Honeybees are perennial insects with colonies that survive more than one year. Honeybees form a cluster when hive temperatures approach 57° F. As the temperature drops, the cluster of bees becomes more compact. Bees inside this mass consume honey and generate heat so that those in the cluster do not freeze. As long as honey is available in the cluster, a strong colony can withstand temperatures down to -30° F. or lower for extended periods.

Wasp and Bee Stings

Wasps and bees sting to defend themselves or their colony. Stinging involves the injection of protein venom that causes pain and other reactions.

Wasps and bumblebees can sting more than once because they are able to pull out their stinger without injury to themselves. If a wasp or bumblebee stings you, the stinger is not left in your skin.

Honeybees have barbs on their stinger, which remain hooked in the skin. The stinger, which is connected to the digestive system of the bee, is torn out of the abdomen as the bee attempts to fly away. As a result, the bee soon dies. If a honeybee stings you, scratch out the stinger (with its attached venom gland) with your fingernail as soon as possible. Do not try to pull out the stinger between two fingers. Doing so only forces more venom into your skin, causing greater irritation.

Most people have only local reactions to wasp and bee stings, although a few may experience more serious allergic reactions. Local, non-allergic reactions range from burning, itching, redness, and tenderness to massive swelling and itching that may last up to a week. These local reactions can be treated with ice, vinegar, honey, meat tenderizer, or commercial topical ointment to relieve the itching. An allergic reaction may include hives or rash, swelling away from the sting site, headache, minor respiratory symptoms, and stomach upset. These allergic reactions are not life threatening and can be readily treated with an antihistamine.

Very rarely, a person may suffer a life-threatening, systemic allergic reaction to a bee or wasp sting, which can cause anaphylactic shock (fainting, difficulty breathing, swelling, and blockage in the throat) within minutes of being stung. These systemic symptoms are cause for immediate medical attention. People with known systemic allergic reactions to bee or wasp stings should consult with their physician to obtain an Epi-PenTM or Ana-Guard Sting KitTM to carry with them at all times. The venoms of bees and wasps are different, so having a severe reaction to a wasp sting does not mean a person will have the same reaction to a bee sting.

Control of Nests

The first step in wasp or bee control is to correctly identify the insect and locate its nesting site. An experienced pest control service may provide wasp or bee control service or you can use the following information to attempt to control them yourself.

Wasps

The best time of the year to control wasps is in June after the queen has established her colony and while the colony is still small. However, because nests are small, they are also harder to find. The best time of the day to control wasp nests is at night, when they are less active. At temperatures below 50° F, wasps have difficulty flying. Never seal a wasp nest until you are sure there are no surviving wasps inside. If a nest is not discovered until fall, control may be unnecessary, as imminent freezing temperatures will kill the colony.

Exposed wasp nests

Wasp nests that are visible but are not near your home or areas of human activity do not need to be treated. If they are not disturbed, the wasps will not bother you.

Nests that are near human activity can pose a potential problem. If there is a concern about stings, you should eradicate the nest.

Apply a ready-to-use aerosol “wasp and hornet spray” into the entrance of the nest during late evening according to label directions. If no activity is observed the next day, the nest has been successfully exterminated. If live wasps are still observed, repeat the treatment at three-day intervals until they are all dead.

Mechanical control without insecticides is possible for small, exposed nests. At night, cover the nest with a large, heavy, plastic bag and seal it shut. Cut the nest from the tree and freeze it or let the bag sit in the sun, which will kill the wasps inside in a day or two. Use caution: there is more risk involved in this procedure than in spraying the nest.

Ground wasp nests

When yellow jackets are found nesting in the ground, first try pouring a soap and water solution into the entrance. Many types of soap will work, including dish and laundry soap.

If that does not work, apply an insecticide into the nest opening. Be sure you use a product that is cleared for use in lawns or soil. Dusts are more effective than liquid insecticides because liquids do not always reach the nest. After you are sure all the wasps have been exterminated, cover the nest entrance with soil.

When treating ground-dwelling wasp nests, use one of the following insecticides:

carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a dust

chlorpyrifos (e.g. Dursban) as a dust

carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a liquid concentrate

acephate (e.g. Orthene) as a liquid concentrate

diazinon as a liquid concentrate

Concealed wasp nests

The most challenging nests to control are those that are concealed in voids behind walls or in attics. Often, the only evidence of the nest is wasps flying back and forth through a crack or hole in the home.

Aerosol insecticides usually do not work very well against hidden nests. The best method is to apply a small amount of insecticidal dust (dusts are less commonly available in stores than aerosols; be sure any dust you plan to use is labeled for use in homes). You may need to drill small (about 1/8 inch) holes to deliver the insecticide into the nest area. If the product you are using does not have a built-in applicator, you can use a plastic container with a tube tip or spout, such as an empty liquid detergent bottle, to “puff” the product into the void.

When treating wasp nests hidden in building voids, use one of the following insecticide dusts:

bendiocarb

chlorpyrifos

boric acid (will be slow acting)

If you would rather hire someone experienced to exterminate a wasp nest, talk to a reliable pest control service.

Concealed nests that are treated in the fall may force wasps into the home. If there is no immediate danger, it may be best to wait until freezing temperatures kill the nest. Do not seal the nest entrance until you are sure all wasps are dead. Closing the nest too early can force survivors into your home. When the wasps are dead, seal the entrance with caulk or something similar to prevent a new wasp queen from using the same entrance to build a new nest next year.

Old wasp nests

Wasp nests found during winter or early spring are old nests from the previous summer. There are no live wasps in the nest; they have already left the nest or died inside it. The nest can be safely removed and disposed of if desired. Wasps do not reuse old nests, so there is no risk if one is left. However, scavengers, such as carpet beetles, are attracted to an old nest and may become a nuisance if the nest is in your home.

Honeybee nests

Honeybees are normally housed in manufactured hives and managed by beekeepers. In some instances, wild colonies of honeybees may nest in hollow trees or in wall voids. Honeybees may become a nuisance in the spring at bird feeders and swimming pools as they forage for water. They seldom, if ever, are a nuisance in summer or early fall.

Wild colonies can be treated with the same insecticides and methods as described for exposed or concealed wasp nests. Combs inside buildings should be removed and destroyed to avoid problems with honey-stained damage to walls and secondary pest problems, such as carpet beetles, and attracting bee swarms in the future. Never use honey or wax from colonies that have been treated with an insecticide. Control of honeybee nests can be challenging. Consider hiring an experienced pest control service if a honeybee job appears too difficult.

Bumblebee nests

When a bumblebee nest is a nuisance, treat it with the same insecticides and methods as described for ground-nesting or concealed wasp nests.

Ground-nesting bees

There are other types of bees you may encounter that do not form colonies. Solitary andrenid bees are common ground-nesting bees. They are also important pollinators of native plants. They usually nest in sun-exposed, dry areas of yards. Although there is just one bee per nest, many of these bees typically nest close to each other. They are usually most conspicuous to the public during spring. Although many ground-nesting bees may be found flying around their nests in the spring, they are gentle and very rarely sting people.

Sprinkling the area of their nests with water may be enough to encourage them to move as they avoid damp areas. The same insecticides that control ground-nesting yellow jackets and bumble bees are effective against andrenid bees.

Wasps and Outdoor Activities

During late summer and fall, yellow jackets become aggressive scavengers and frequently disrupt outside activities where food or drink is served. Control of scavenging wasps is difficult, as there are no insecticides that effectively repel or discourage them.

The best strategy is to minimize attracting them. Wait to serve food and drink until people are ready to eat. Promptly put away food when done and throw garbage into a container with a tightly fitting lid. Examine glasses, cans, and other containers before drinking from them to check for wasps that may have flown inside. If a wasp flies to your food, wait for it to fly away or gently brush it away. If only a few yellow jackets are bothering your activity, ignoring them or capturing them with a net and crushing them may be sufficient. Traps may catch a considerable number of wasps, but not enough are captured to noticeably reduce the wasp population in the fall.

On Repairfinders.com if is easy to find Bee and Pest control services in your area. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time to browse our extensive list of businesses, that are more than willing to help you. All the companies listed on our site are hardworking, honest, diligent people who will give you the best price possible.

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How much do you know about architects?

How much do you know about architects? Well if it is not much, pay attention because you are going to learn a lot! Architects design houses and buildings. They plan offices and apartments. They design schools, churches, and airport terminals. Their plans involve far more than a building’s looks. Buildings must be safe and strong. They must also suit the needs of the people who use them. Architects look at all these things.

 

 

The architect and client first discuss what the client wants. The architect sometimes helps decide if a project would work at all or if it would harm the environment. The architect then creates drawings for the client to review. They may be involved in all stages of the construction of a building.

If the ideas are OK, the architect draws up the final plans. These plans show how the building will look and how to build it. The drawings show the beams that hold up the building. They show the air-conditioner, furnace, and ventilating systems. The drawings show how the electricity and plumbing work. Architects used to use pencil and paper to draw their plans. Today, more and more architects are using computers. Architects generally work in comfortable conditions. They spend most of their time in offices. However, they spend some time at building sites to see how projects are going.

Architects may feel stressed sometimes. Most architects work 40 hours a week, but they may need to work nights and weekends in order to meet deadlines.

Architects must be licensed before they can practice. In order to get a license: 1) You need a degree in architecture. Courses include architectural theory, building design, math, and science. 2) You must finish an internship. 3) Finally, you must pass all sections of a license exam. Architects sometimes take new classes to keep their skills fresh.

Architects must be able to visualize things and communicate well visually. Art classes are very helpful in doing this. Speaking, writing, and creativity are also important. Architects should be computer literate.

 

 

The middle half of all architects earned between $49,780 and $83,450 a year in 2006. The lowest-paid 10 percent earned less than $39,420. The highest-paid 10 percent earned more than $104,970 a year.

Architects held about 132,000 jobs in 2006. Most jobs were in small architecture firms. About 1 in 5 was self-employed. This means they practiced as partners in a firm or on their own. Some worked for builders or government agencies. To find the best architects go to Repairfinders.com. On repairfinders.com, you will find qualified professionals in your area that can assist you in the remodeling or upgrading of your home, or office. All it takes is a couple of minutes! Jack is over and out.

 

 

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DIY or call a professional? (The facts about Auto body work)

Do it yourself Auto bodywork was taken from: http://www.helium.com/items/1086080-auto-body-repair-and-repainting. It is a brief overview of how to do auto body work, yourself. It takes a lot of time, patience, and will power to get this done. Not everyone was made to do this on their own, so if like me you slightly cringe to the thought of having to fix your car up yourself do not worry. There is hope for us on repairfinders.com!

If one were to consider in doing-it-yourself auto body repair, you should have some basic interest in working with metal sheets. To do this kind of metal working the basic tools needed to repair dents and small rust holes are:

1. Ball peen Hammer

2. Rubber Mallet

3. Metal dolly

4. Tinsmith’s Spoons

5. Wire brush, steel or bronze

 

 

Working on dents does not necessarily mean hammering the body part to its original shape. All that is needed is to work back the dent to about at least 1/8 of an inch to its original shape. Making it shape to almost original will be completed by applying body filler and putty. In the process of gently hammering back the dent, paint will either chip-off or crack. It will be necessary to do the following:

1. Sandpaper away the paint and surrounding areas up to about 2 inches away from the exposed metal. Try to “feather-off” the paint meeting the bare metal to allow proper adherence of the body filler to be applied. Use 120 grit sand paper for this. Wet sanding is advisable then wipe thoroughly dry.

2. Dab the exposed metal with rubbing alcohol or anti-rust compound. Make sure to avoid applying it on the painted area.

3. If rust is evident, use steel brush or bronze brush to remove, if possible, all traces of rust.

4. It is at your option to thinly hand paint with primer the bare metal if it is not larger than the size of your palm.

5. Let the area dry completely before applying body filler. If you are a beginner, most body fillers come in two parts. The hardener, usually in a small plastic tube, is the catalyst to harden the compound. Use it sparingly because using too much will cause the filler to harden real fast in a couple of minutes. Mix the compound well and apply with gentle pressure in one direction to fill the depression on the body. Apply the filler close to the nearest undamaged paint.

6. After the body filler has hardened and dried wet sand gently with 320 grit sand paper to follow the contour of the body. Make sure that the body filler feathers where it meets with the original paint. Feathering means there is no ridge felt when you run your fingertips on where the ends meet. It takes time to be accurately sensitive to feel this difference to the touch. Running over the ends several times with your closed palm and fingertips will give you the “feel”.

7. To complete the filling, apply very thinly, glazing putting over the body filler to cover slight imperfections and pores. Again wet sand with 600 grit sand paper the entire area that you worked on. Overlap slightly sanding on the original paint. Let dry completely.

8. Apply primer surfacer spray (available in aerosol cans) with a color closest to your original paint. After the primer has completely dried, wet sand again with used 600 grit sand paper or new 800 grit sand paper. Wipe and let dry completely.

9. Apply paint color of your car from four to six coats letting each coat dry completely before applying the next coat. If the color code of your paint is available, normally you can get them too in aerosol cans.

10. After the final coat has completely dried, wet sand the finish very lightly with 1000 grit sand paper.

11. To bring out the sheen and luster of the paint job and blend it to the original, rub the entire work with fine rubbing compound with consistent light pressure strokes. Wipe off the repaired area and buff with circular motion.

Tips on Spray Painting:

NOTE: Know if your original paint is enamel, lacquer or acrylic. NEVER apply acrylic over enamel or lacquer finish. Enamel or lacquer over acrylic is just fine.

Mask off areas not to be painted.

Hold the spray about eight to ten inches away from the area.

Spraying motion should be back and forth overlapping each stroke by about 1/3 of its width.

Spray stroke speed should be close to 1 foot per second but not faster.

Release trigger or button away and past the work area if you need to stop or pause.

If a mistake or error was made and defect shows on paint applied, let dry completely then wet sand area with 1000 grit sand paper. When dry, resume painting finish.

To add shine and luster protect color, you can spray a clear coat to the last color coat.

 

 

Now all of this is fine and dandy, but if you are like me and now you might screw your vehicle up more, make a smart decision, and go to repairfinders.com. On repairfinders.com you can browse through dozens of custom auto body shops in your area. Get a real professional to do this heavy-duty job for you. In addition, the great thing about repairfinders.com is that you know you are getting only THE BEST in the business, as we only host honest, hardworking, reliable businesses and individuals. If you are ready to see a major improvement in not only your car, but also other everyday things, check it out today. In fact, I am going to hop on right now, and see if I can find someone to do something about these hairline scratches on the back of my car.

 

 

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