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Investing in a home security system.

repairfinder — Mon, 03 Nov 2008 18:39:11 +0100

A few years ago, the most a person could
do in terms of home security was to employ security personnel. Even so,
security personnel was a comfort and not a requirement, and many
thought that security personnel just catered to the vanity of the
ultra-rich and the famous.

Back in those times, there was not such an incessant need of home
security for the common man, as most of the family members would work
only a small walk away from their homes. However, today, with the
advent of globalization, most family members are working and away from
home, leaving the elderly and children at home. Therefore, a good home
security and alarm system is the need of the day. Here are just some of
the home security alarms which will ensure a peaceful night to you and
your family members.

One of the most popular ways of safeguarding homes is the alarm
system. There are various alarm systems available for all types of
homes. The smoke alarm is considered to be one of the simplest home
alarm systems. Though the smoke alarm is not as strong a system as the
others, it works well if the burglars are stupid enough to smoke in the
house. Some burglars are even known to cook food in the house, once
they check whether the house has been locked up for a long time, for
example a foreign travel binge.

Some of the most complete home security systems consist of features
which enables the user to contact the police, the nearest hospital and
any emergency services required. Most systems work on a combination of
contact points and motion sensors placed at doors and windows A typical
home alarm system includes:

* Control Panel: The control panel is the center of the entire home
security system. It is where the system terminates are located, as well
as where the phone line connects if the security system is a monitored
one. The control panel also has the backup batteries.

* Inside Motion detector: These detectors will sense any motion in
the room, or any other changes in the room caused by human presence.

* Contacts: These specific door and window contacts allow the alarm
to go off when the doors of windows are opened while the alarm is set
on.

* Keypads: The keypad is a normal set of buttons which allows the home security system to be armed of disarmed.

While these are the general elements of a home security systems, some home security systems also have:

* Glass Break Detectors: These help in detecting any glass break.
Most burglars do not have open the entire windows to get into the
house, they can get inside by merely breaking a pane of the window or
the door.

* Pressure Mats: There have been occasions where only the elderly or
the children have been at home. In such cases, the very presence of
burglar is a cause of concern, because a botched burglary is more
dangerous than a successful one. Therefore, some home security systems
have pressure pads, which can be placed under the rugs. This will alert
the home owner of any unwanted presence in the home and its
surroundings.

* Panic Buttons: These so-called ‘panic buttons’ connect the home
security system to any numbers that need to be contacted immediately in
the case of a burglary, for example the police, the hospitals and even
the fire brigade.

Home security systems are of two types, monitored and non-monitored
systems. Monitored systems have a central monitoring station which is
contacted whenever the home security system is triggered off. The
station then informed the relevant authorities about the break-in.

Non-monitored home security systems rely on the neighbors with their
on-site alarms and in some cases strobing lights. If you are looking to
have someone install a reliable home security system in your home look
no further, on Repairfinders.com there are dozens of hardworking
professionals listed that are more than willing to make sure you are
safe in your own home.

Solar Power its the only way to go.

repairfinder — Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:38:47 +0200

The sun’s heat and light provide an
abundant source of energy that can be harnessed in many ways. There are
a variety of technologies that have been developed to take advantage of
solar energy. These include concentrating solar power systems, passive
solar heating and daylighting, photovoltaic systems, solar hot water,
and solar process heat and space heating and cooling.

Solar power can be used in both large-scale applications and in
smaller systems for the home. Businesses and industry can diversify
their energy sources, improve efficiency, and save money by choosing
solar technologies for heating and cooling, industrial processes,
electricity, and water heating. Homeowners can also use solar
technologies for heating and cooling and water heating, and may even be
able to produce enough electricity to operate “off-grid” or to sell the
extra electricity to the utilities, depending on local programs. The
use of passive solar heating and daylighting design strategies can help
both homes and commercial buildings operate more efficiently and make
them more pleasant and comfortable places in which to live and work.

Beyond these localized uses of solar power, utilities and power
plants are also taking advantage of the sun’s abundant energy resource
and offering the benefits to their customers. Concentrating solar power
systems allow power plants to produce electricity from the sun on a
larger scale, which in turn allows consumers to take advantage of solar
power without making the investment in personal solar technology
systems.

Solar power technologies, from individual home systems to
large-scale concentrating solar power systems, have the potential to
help meet growing energy needs and provide diversity and reliability in
energy supplies.

If you are looking into Solar Energy, great choice! On
Repairfinders.com you will have no problem finding the right business
that will be more than happy to install solar panels for a more energy
efficient home.

Make sure your well water is safe.

repairfinder — Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:35:41 +0200

Forty-seven percent of the United States depends on ground water for
their basic drinking water supply. Having a basic understanding about
ground water quality will help ensure that your well is supplying
potable water for your household.

Along with human activities, water quality is affected by a
combination of natural processes. Most relate to chemical compositions
underground. However, other factors such as biological, physical, and
radiological conditions can affect water quality as well.

The National Ground Water Association recommends that water well
owners have their wells checked and tested by a certified and/or
licensed contractor every year to ensure water safety. You can find
these licensed contractors on Repairfinders.com

Hard Water

The most common problem associated with ground water may be
hardness, generally associated with an abundance of calcium and/or
magnesium dissolved in the water. Hard water has not been shown to
cause health problems, but can be a nuisance as it may cause soap curds
and deposits to form on pipes and other plumbing fixtures. Over time,
this can reduce the diameter of the pipes.

Calcium and magnesium are found in ground water that has been
exposed to certain rocks and minerals, especially limestone and gypsum.
When these materials are dissolved, they release calcium and magnesium.
Hard water is considered bad for your plumbing, but people with heart
or circulatory problems may want to consult their physician about
drinking softened water, because the softening process removes calcium
and magnesium, and adds sodium to the water.

Iron and Manganese

A “rusty” or metallic taste in water is a result of iron, and
sometimes manganese, in ground water. They not only create a bad taste,
but they also can stain pipes and clothing.

Iron and manganese are naturally occurring, and most ground water
has some amount of dissolved iron and manganese in it. It comes from
contact with minerals that contain iron, such as pyrite.

There are several treatment methods. Installing a water softener may
help if iron and manganese are present in low quantities and the
softener is designed for their removal. Aeration (the addition of
oxygen to the water), chlorination, and feeding ozone or hydrogen
peroxide can aid in the precipitation of iron, which it is removed from
the water by filtration. Potassium permanganate feed with manganese
greensand filters, and some recently designed synthetic media, will
remove iron and manganese, as well.

Nitrogen

Most nitrogen in ground water comes from the atmosphere. Some plants
can “attach” nitrogen from the atmosphere onto their roots. The
nitrogen not used by the plants is then released into the soil.

Nitrogen compounds also can work their way into ground water through
fertilizers, manure, and urine from farm animals, sewage, and landfills.

The most common forms in ground water are ammonia, nitrate, and
nitrite. Nitrates can be especially toxic to children under six months
of age. Exposure to ammonia also presents a health risk. It is toxic to
aquatic life such as fish, and it interferes with water treatment.

There are a variety of treatment methods to correct this problem,
including reverse osmosis systems with water softeners to remove
nitrates and nitrites, and oxidation to remove small amounts of
ammonia. However, treatment should be a last resort. Removing the
source of contamination is the first priority. You should also be sure
to protect the area around the wellhead from contamination by animals
or fertilizers.

Silica

Silica comes from the weathering of silicate minerals in the ground.
It causes no harmful effects to humans, but large amounts can cause
scaling in pipes that impacts water flow, and it can interfere with
iron and manganese removal.

Sulfur

Sulfur can occur in ground water in two forms: sulfides and
sulfates. Sulfides are naturally occurring in much of the United States
in limestone containing organic materials; ground water affected by
oil, gas, and coal deposits; in marshes and manure pits; and in the
byproduct of well-established iron bio films. Sulfates often come from
the dissolving of minerals, such as gypsum and anhydrite.

A “rotten egg” smell coming from your water indicates the presence
of hydrogen sulfide gas. Along with creating an unpleasant odor and
taste, sulfides cause corrosion to plumbing and darken water.

There are several methods for treating sulfur. Aeration, ozone,
hydrogen peroxide, and chlorine (best followed by filtration) are
effective against dissolved hydrogen sulfide or gas. A reverse osmosis
system, nanofiltration system, or a negative ion-exchanger also can be
effective in reducing sulfates. Filtration is necessary in combating
sulfur formation as a mineral or in bio films.

Total Dissolved Solids

TDS, as it is commonly known, is the concentration of all dissolved
minerals in water. It is the direct measurement of the interaction
between minerals and ground water.

TDS levels above 1000 mg/L will usually yield poor tasting water.
Levels above 2000 mg/L are considered undrinkable due to taste, and
levels more than 10,000 mg/L are defined as undrinkable.

Water softeners with a reverse osmosis system are effective in lowering the TDS to satisfactory levels.

Additional Treatment Information

For more information on water treatment methods, you should contact a well specialist. There are many listed on Repairfinders.com .
All it takes is a moment of your time, and remember that when it comes
to something as life sustaining as water, you do not want to hold for
tomorrow, what you should do today.

Burglars beware!

repairfinder — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 21:44:37 +0200

Security systems have become standard equipment in stores and other businesses, and they’re becoming increasingly common in private homes as well. If you’ve ever shopped for a home security system, then you know there are a wide variety of options available. These systems range from do-it-yourself kits you can pick up for $10 to sophisticated whole-house security networks that must be installed by professionals. But, as it turns out, most alarm systems are actually built around the same basic design concepts.

Breaking the Circuit

Other than the family dog, the most basic burglar alarm is a simple electric circuit built into an entry way. In any circuit, whether it’s powering a flashlight or a computer, electricity only flows when you give it a path between two points of opposite charge. To turn the electricity on or off, you open or close part of the circuit.

To open or close a flashlight circuit, you simply throw a switch. In a burglar alarm, the switch detects the act of intrusion — opening a door or window, for example. These sorts of alarms are divided into two categories:

In a closed-circuit system, the electric circuit is closed when the door is shut. This means that as long as the door is closed, electricity can flow from one end of the circuit to the other. But if somebody opens the door, the circuit is opened, and electricity can’t flow. This triggers an alarm.

In an open-circuit system, opening the door closes the circuit, so electricity begins to flow. In this system, the alarm is triggered when the circuit is completed.

There are a number of ways to build this sort of circuit into an entry way. Closed circuits are normally a better choice than open circuits because an intruder can deactivate the open circuit by simply cutting the connected wires.

A magnetic sensor in a closed circuit consists of a few simple components. For the most basic design, you need:

a battery powering a circuit
a spring-driven metal switch built into a door frame
a magnet embedded in the door, lined up with the switch
a separately-powered buzzer with a relay-driven switch.

When the door is closed, the magnet pulls the metal switch closed so the circuit is complete. The current powers the relay’s electromagnet, so the buzzer circuit stays open. When you move the magnet by opening the door, the spring snaps the switch back into the open position. This cuts off the current and closes the relay, sounding the alarm.

You can also build this sort of system into a window. If an intruder pushes a window open, the magnet slides out of line with the switch, and the buzzer is activated.

Another simple burglar alarm uses a small button as the switch. The button is embedded in the door frame, so closing the door pushes it in. When somebody opens the door, the button is released, changing the circuit and sounding the alarm.

With just a battery and buzzer, these designs make for fairly flawed security systems. After all, the burglar only needs to close the door again to turn the buzzer off. That’s why most modern burglar alarms incorporate another piece into the circuit — the control box.

The control box is hooked up to one or more alarm circuits, but it also has its own power supply. It monitors the circuits and sounds the alarm when they are closed or opened (depending on the design). But once the alarm is triggered, the control box won’t cut it off until somebody enters a security code at a connected keypad. For added security, the control box is usually positioned in an out-of-the-way spot, so the intruder can’t find it and attempt to destroy it.

Using this basic concept, you can create all sorts of alarm systems. Just imagine what a burglar might do to break into a house, and then turn that action into the circuit switch. For example, an intruder might break through a window, so you could make the glass itself a circuit. The easiest way to do this is run a current through a thin line of foil wire affixed to the surface of the glass. If a burglar breaks the glass, the circuit is broken, and the alarm is triggered.

Floor mats are another simple option. A basic floor mat uses an open circuit design with two metal strips spaced apart. When somebody steps on the mat, the pressure pushes the two metal strips together, completing a circuit.

All of these circuit systems are best for guarding the perimeter of a house or business — the points an intruder would enter the building. In the next section, we’ll look at systems that detect an intruder once he or she has already made it inside.

Detecting Motion

Circuit alarms are very effective for guarding the perimeter of a house, but they don’t work so well inside a building. This is because the intruder’s actions are highly unpredictable — you don’t know where they’ll go or what they’ll touch. A specific “trigger” isn’t very effective. To detect an intruder who’s already in the house, you need a motion detector.

Basic motion detectors are fairly common these days. You see them all the time in automatic doors, for example. There are several different sorts of detectors.

An automatic door opener is an example of a radar-based motion detector. The box above the door sends out bursts of microwave radio energy (or ultrasonic sound waves), and then waits for the reflected energy to bounce back. If there is nobody in front of the door, the radio energy will bounce back in the same pattern. But if somebody enters the area, the reflection pattern is disturbed. When this happens, the sensor sends a signal and the door opens. In a security system, the sensor sends an alarm signal when the reflection pattern in a room is disturbed.

Another simple design is a photo-sensor motion detector. These are the devices you might see in a store at a shopping mall. When somebody enters the store, the motion detector sounds a chime or bell. Photo-sensors have two components:

a source of focused light (often a laser beam)
a light sensor

In a home security system, you aim the beam at the light sensor, across a passageway in your house. When somebody walks between the light source and the sensor, the path of the beam is blocked briefly. The sensor registers a drop in light levels and sends a signal to the control box.

More advanced security systems include passive infrared (PIR) motion detectors. These sensors “see” the infrared energy emitted by an intruder’s body heat. When an intruder walks into the field of view of the detector, the sensor detects a sharp increase in infrared energy. Of course, there will always be gradual fluctuation of heat energy in an area, so PIR detectors are designed to trigger the alarm only when infrared energy levels change very rapidly. See this page for details.

All these motion detector designs can be combined in a house to offer complete coverage. In a typical security system, the control box will not sound the alarm immediately when the motion detectors are triggered. There is a short delay to give the homeowner time to enter a security code that turns the system off.

If the security code is not entered, however, the control box will activate various alarms. In the next section, we’ll look at some of the alarm types you might find in a typical security system.

Sounding the Alarm

There are several things a security system might do when it detects an intruder. In an advanced system, the control box will be wired to several different components. Typically, it will activate:

a siren or other loud alarm noise
flashing outdoor lights
a telephone auto-dialer
The siren and lights serve three functions:
They alert occupants and neighbors that someone has broken into the house.
They drive the intruder away.
They signal to police which house has been broken into.

The telephone auto-dialer can: Dial the police directly, and play a pre-recorded message giving the address of the house and any other relevant information. This message will usually play over and over so that the police will still hear it even if the call is put on hold for some time.

Dial the security company that installed the equipment. In this case, the control box can feed specific information about the intrusion — which circuits or motion detectors were activated, etc. The security company then relays this information to the police.

Home security is a rapidly growing field, and there are new and improved burglar alarms popping up all the time. For the most part, these systems are all built around the same basic structure. A central control box monitors several motion detectors and perimeter guards and sounds an alarm when any of them are triggered. On repairfinders.com, you will have no trouble finding a qualified professional who can install a wonderful home security system of you today!

Keep your pool clean!

repairfinder — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:54:27 +0200

Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions are right, an algae bloom can occur seemingly overnight. These conditions include out of balance water, warm temperatures, sunlight and presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide. Of course, a lack of proper circulation, filtration and sanitation may be the primary cause of the algae. The best process is one of elimination.

Algae is a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct.+

What problems can Algae cause?

The first noticeable problem is that no one seems to want to go swimming. The second problem is that it requires work and effort and money to rid the water completely of algae. It is therefore best to use preventative chemicals and techniques, described later. Algae can cloud and color the water, making rescue attempts difficult and reducing depth perception of a diver. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with algae may also be harbor to pathogens like E-coli bacteria.

In addition to clogging up sanitation pathways in the water, algae also clogs up the pores in a filter, decreasing filter effectiveness and requiring more backwashing or medium replacement. Algae creates a chlorine demand in the water for itself, actually consuming chlorine that should be working on other contaminants. Algae are kind of like weeds in your garden. Unsightly, unwanted space takers that create more work for the gardener, and sap up nutrients and resources from the flora we wish to grow.

What types of Algae are there?

There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae! In the pool business we avoid all of the complication by referring to algae by the color they exhibit.

Green Algae: An extremely common variety, green algae will usually rear its ugly head immediately following a hazy condition in the water from a lack of proper filtration and/or sanitation. It is frequently found free floating in the water, although it also will cling to the walls. It reduces water clarity and is thereby distinguished from severe copper precipitation, which will impart a clear, green color to the water. Varieties of green algae also appear as “spots” on surfaces, particularly rough areas, or places where circulation is low. They also show up as “sheets”, where large wall sections, or even the entire pool, is coated in green slime…UGH!

Yellow Algae: A wall clinging variety, also called mustard algae, is usually found on the shady side of the pool. It is sheet forming, and can be difficult to eradicate completely. Once begun, a pool owner could spend the entire season fighting yellow algae; re-infection is common. This variety is resistant to normal chlorine levels and must be dealt with firmly. Hit it hard!

Black Algae: Perhaps the most aggravating strain of algae, it has been compared to herpes; “once you’ve got it, it’s there for life.” This is not entirely accurate, but the difficulty in eradication is due to the strong roots and protective layers over top of the black algae plant. Black algae will appear as dark black or blue/green spots, usually the size of a pencil eraser tip. Their roots extend into the plaster or tile grout, and unless the roots are destroyed completely, a new head will grow back in the same place. The heads also contain protective layers to keep cell destroying chemicals from entering the organism. Like yellow algae, black strains can bloom even in the presence of normal sanitizing levels and proper filtration. I was once told that this form of algae commonly enters a pool inside the swimsuit of a person who’s recently been to the ocean.

Pink Algae: Not really an algae at all, but a form of bacteria. Appears as spots or streaks in corners and crevices. It is slow to spread and rare that it will bloom over an entire pool.

How is algae prevented?

Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. high pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth. Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony.

The use of specialty chemicals or algaecides is recommended to provide a back up to normal sanitation and filtration processes and is completely necessary for many pools. These chemicals are described below:

Potassium Tetraborate: This chemical, when added to the pool water in proper dosage, prevents algae from converting carbon dioxide into the fuel it needs for growth. Manufactured under the trade name Proteam Supreme. An extraordinary product.

Chitin: Not an algaecide (meaning to kill algae) per se, but its properties might be called algaestatic (that is, to prevent algae growth). Chitin has the ability to coagulate and remove a wide variety of suspended materials and impurities from the water. This allows the sanitizer to more effectively kill contaminants unobstructed. It also improves the effectiveness of the filtration equipment. Sold under the trade name Sea-Klear, chitin can be a valuable weapon in your algae arsenal.

Algaecides and Algaestats:

Quaternary Ammonium Compounds:

A low grade type of algaecide, Quats, as they are called, will usually have “10″ somewhere on the bottle, representing 10% active ingredient. Although available at a lower cost, quats tend to produce a small amount of surface foaming. They are most effective as an algaestat, that is, as a prevention, not a cure.

Polymers:

Polymers are long, complicated chemical chains that behave in water both as an algaestat and an algaecide. They are available in percentage strength of 30 - 60%, are non foaming, and work well as general, all around algae treatments. Poly-Quats are a blended compound of polymer and quats.

Copper Based:

Copper is a proven algaecide and algaestat. Available in varying non foaming strength of 3 - 10%. It works very well on all types of algae, but it has the drawback of staining white plaster surfaces a light blue/green color if it precipitates out of solution. Most copper based algaecides are chelated, which means that agents have been added to prevent this, such as Lo-Chlor Algaecide.

Silver Based:

Silver has been shown to be an effective bacteriostat, which means that it works to prevent bacteria from reproducing. Non foaming and effective with pink algae. In high doses, reactions with sunlight can cause colloidal silver to deposit as black stains on white plaster. When using copper or silver algaecides, the use of a sequestering agent is recommended.

Chlorine Enhancers:

These are not algaecides, but work to provide a synergistic boost to hypochlorites when added separately, but at the same time. Sold under trade names like Mustard Buster, Yellow-Out or Yellow Treat, it is most effective on, you guessed it, yellow algae. Since it is not an algaecide, the makers are not required to tell what it is made of, but we do know that it works quite well, in conjunction with a little brushing and vacuuming on your part.

Too late to prevent it…How do I kill algae?

First off, find a pool specialist on Repairfinders.com who will balance your water, paying particular attention to pH. Secondly, they will check your filter system and clean if necessary. Adjust valving for optimum circulation and allow it to run 24 hours a day until the pool clears. Turn on automatic cleaners to help stir things up. Backwash as necessary.

For suspended green algae, shock the pool…hard. Put in as much hypochlorite as it takes to turn the pool a cloudy, bluish/gray color. Brush the walls and floors towards the main drain. Backwash the filter when the pressure gauge indicates the need (8 - 10 lbs. above clean reading, after backwashing.) Using a flocculent may be a good choice if the pool is extremely “swampy”. If you cannot see the bottom of the pool, and it is filled with leaves and debris, it may be wise to drain the pool, acid wash and refill it.

After the chlorine level has come down below 5 ppm, add an algaecide and brush the pool again. When it all settles, vacuum the pool (to waste, if possible). Check and re-balance the pool water if necessary.

For algae which is not suspended, but only clinging to the walls, follow the same advice above, first shock with brushing, then add an algaecide, brush again, vacuum to waste (preferred) or vacuum and then backwash the filter. Use of a steel bristled brush is recommended for algae on plaster pools (use nylon brush on vinyl). Filter, Filter, Filter!

For black algae, the brushing part is very important. You must tear through the protective layers so the chemicals can destroy the plant from the inside out. Pumice stones work well to knock off the heads of black algae. (Don’t forget to vacuum them up later, and backwash them out of the filter ASAP). Also effective on the black algae nodules is sprinkling granular trichlor over the spots (of course if they’re on the wall this is next to impossible). Rubbing the spots on the walls with a trichlor tablet or stick can also be effective to knock off the heads and get trichlor directly to the roots. Follow up with a dose of copper algaecide, or high strength polymers. Simazine, an herbicide, was a very effective black algae treatment, but is no longer available in America.

If algae has been an ongoing problem in your pool for several years, you may do well to drain the pool. Many years of algae builds up dead algae cells and lots of other solids in the water that contribute to its rejuvenation. Acid washing and/or pressure washing is preferable once drained, to kill the roots of the algae embedded in the plaster. NEXT: Change the sand if you have a sand filter or change the cartridge if it is a cartridge type. Sand should be changed every 5 - 7 yrs (or every 2 if you use Baquacil), and cartridge filters should have new elements every 1 - 2 years. If you have a D.E. filter (good for you!), you should remove the elements, spray clean, soak in a 10 : 1 water/ bleach solution, rinse and replace. A well functioning filter will prevent algae.

Another item to look at is the method of sanitation and the type of filtering you have. Far too many pools out there were sold with marginal filter systems, meant to run 24 hrs per day. Well, these systems get old and tired, or the new owners only run it 12 hrs per day (or less). For good algae prevention, we need a combination of good filtration, sanitation and circulation. It may be time to consider changing the old pump and filter. It’s cheaper and easier to pay a little up front for more chemicals, electricity or better equipment than all the money and aggravation spent on fighting algae blooms.

All your transmission problems are over!

repairfinder — Fri, 17 Oct 2008 22:21:45 +0200

Your transmission is a remarkable contraption. Somehow it can shift your car from gear to gear, knowing how fast you need to go and how quickly you need to get there. What goes on inside is a mystery to most. Unless your thirst for automotive knowledge borders on compulsive, you can leave it a mystery. The basics will be enough to have an intelligent (which translates to “not about to be ripped off”) conversation with your mechanic.

Basic Parts of a Transmission

While there are many, many little parts inside, your transmission is essentially made up of a few key parts of systems.

Bell Housing: This is the cone shaped metal case that you can see when you peek underneath your car. If you have a front-wheel-drive car, it is stuck on the side of the engine under the hood. If your car is rear-wheel-drive, the transmission will be mounted underneath the car behind the engine.

Gears: Even though you are not shifting them, an automatic transmission has gears. They are broken into main gears and planetary gears. You need all of these to be able to drive.

Fluid: Transmission fluid is very important to an automatic transmission. All of the magic happens in the fluid. Most cars come with red transmission fluid, good to know if you are looking for a leak.

Filter: All of that fluid has to be clean for your car to shift gears at the right time. To keep things fresh, your transmission has a filter to catch any gunk.

Now that you know a little about what is happening in there, you can try to figure out why your transmission is acting up, or at least understand what your mechanic is talking about while he tries to make your bill into his new fishing boat.

Transmission problems fall into two very similar categories:

1. Won’t go.

2. Won’t go smoothly

These two groups of problems are caused by the same faults in your transmission, so whichever your car is doing, the following applies.

Is your fluid level correct?

It is important to check your transmission fluid at least twice a year. Not only can a low fluid level cause your car to shift poorly, it can eventually lead to transmission damage, and a costly repair. If your car seems to be losing fluid on a regular basis, you may have a leak.

Is your transmission leaking?

Checking for leaks is not as trying as it may seem. The transmission is a closed system, so there are only a few places that can spring a leak. Unless it has been changed to a non-dyed fluid, your car will have red transmission fluid. Here are a few places to check for leaks:

At the filler tube base.
At the drain hole underneath the transmission.
Between the transmission and the engine.
At the selector shaft - the rod that connects your gear shift to the transmission.
Speed sensor-mounting point. Either this will be your cable screwing into the transmission housing or an electronic sensor bolted to the housing.
The radiator. If your car has a transmission cooler, it is possible that a leak will cause transmission fluid to leak into the radiator fluid. They do not mix well, so you will see it floating around in there.

Is your filter clogged?

Your transmission’s filer is vital to its performance. If you have not replaced your filter in a while (or ever for a lot of us), be sure to do this before you start talking about rebuilds or replacements.

Most transmission problems cannot be fixed by the average do-it-yourselfer. There are just too many specialized tools and pieces of equipment you will need, and buying this expensive gear just to screw up your first three tries at fixing the thing just doesn’t make too much sense.

Now that you are in front of the firing squad, it is time to drop some knowledge on your fix-it person. Tell him what the car is doing. Then tell him what you found out when you inspected the transmission. If there is a leak, let him know where and how much is leaking.

Time for a rebuild?

When your transmission gets tired enough, you will have to have it rebuilt. It is true. For some makes and models of car, it is true a little too often, but that is unimportant. The important thing is checking any other possible causes to your problem before you take the transmission apart, which is very expensive. That is why I am here to help. On Repairfinders.com, you will find an affordable mechanic who won’t overcharge you, and who will do the best work possible. If you have not replaced your filter yet, do it! This fixes a nice percentage of transmission problems. If your filter is good, and nothing simple is out of adjustment, be prepared to drop some serious dough on the rebuild. The good news is that most shops warrantee transmissions rebuild for a nice amount of time, and on Repairfinders, it so easy to find a hardworking professional, because every business listed is hardworking, honest, reliable, and professional!

Dont buy a new iPod, get the one you hav...

repairfinder — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:56:00 +0200

Having a couple of teenagers these days can get quite expensive. Food, clothing, spending money, and of course electronics can really add up. Last Christmas my son wanted an iPod. We got a really good deal on the 60 GB iPod video and it made my son very happy. At least until a week ago. That is when, and nobody knows how it happened, the LCD got broken. Great! What is this going to cost me?

After searching around I found that it would be between $20 and $80 to have it repaired. Well that really is not all that much, considering what the iPod cost, but I really did not want to spend that much money. Not because I am cheap, but because I know that this will not be the last time this get broken and I wanted to see if I could do it myself.

Off to eBay

I searched eBay for iPod parts and I found this place, that had screens for the iPod for $12. That’s right $12! I though how can anyone sell a screens this cheap, there has to be a catch. But what the hell I’ll give it a try. So I hit the buy it now button and with shipping the total was $18. Worse case if it was junk I would have learned my lesson and only lost $18.

Today’s mail brought the display. I went out on the Internet to get the instructions on how to take the iPod apart and in about 15 minutes I had the new screen installed and the unit back together, and best of all IT Worked!!!!

I believe the reason that the display was so cheap is because the parts are used. The display I got was in great shape but had a few light scratches on it. However these did not even show up when installed. I went back and checked the site and it did not say that these were new parts. Honestly I don’t care. The part works and it only cost me $18 and 15 minutes of my time. I also wanted to mention that they even included the tools I needed to get the iPod open at no extra cost.

All-in-all this was a great experience and I can honestly say that I will be repairing anymore problems myself. One caveat. If you are not comfortable taking things apart or working on electronic equipment I suggest you pay the extra cost to have one of the many iPod repair shops fix your unit for you. You could end up damaging it more than it already is. So for all your repair needs go to Repairfinders.com, where only the best in the business are listed.

Don’t let time get away from you!

repairfinder — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:19:01 +0200

After mechanical wristwatches enjoyed a long, long run of popularity, watches that sported battery-operated quartz movements eventually replaced them. However, many people still collect, and even wear, mechanical wristwatches to this day. A tiny battery does not power mechanical wristwatches, which are also known as “Wind Ups”. Instead, what “makes them tick” are coiled mainsprings that are run by a series of springs, gears, and wheels. If you have one of these timepieces, you can learn how to repair common mechanical wristwatch problems.

Replace a Wristwatch Crystal
First, a crystal is the clear piece that covers the face or the dial of a watch. If the mechanical wristwatch has scratches on its crystal, an experienced jeweler can buff them out. Deep gouges may sometimes be buffed out, but not always.

The crystals on mechanical wristwatches are typically made of glass, plastic, or a manmade sapphire. Replacement crystals can be difficult to find, especially if the wristwatch is very old. Therefore, you may have to replace a broken crystal with a different material than the original one was made with. Fortunately, most watch crystals are round. Nevertheless, some timepieces were made with odd-shaped crystals, and replacements can be even harder to locate.

Once you locate a suitable replacement crystal for the mechanical wristwatch, you will need to remove the broken or damaged one first before you can make the repair. To do this, you will need to carefully remove the back off the watch. Then, carefully take the movement out of the casing. You will probably have to remove the crown first. The crown part is the small knob on the side of the wristwatch you use to wind it. After the movement is removed, push the crystal out of the bezel and insert the replacement crystal. Reverse the process to put your mechanical wristwatch back together again.

On Repairfinders.com, it will only take you a couple of minutes to find a clock and repair shop in your area that can assist you, in keeping the value of your items. Not only are these businesses willing to help you, they are also hardworking, honest, and reliable individuals that wont overcharge you, or leave you unsatisfied.

Getting rid of Bees and Wasps in your ho...

repairfinder — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:00:25 +0200

Wasps and bees are beneficial insects, although they are generally considered pests because of their ability to sting. Wasps, in particular, can become a problem in autumn when they may disrupt many outdoor activities. People often mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees”. While both social wasps and bees live in colonies ruled by queens and maintained by workers, they look and behave differently. It is important to distinguish between these insects because different methods may be necessary to control them if they become a nuisance.

Appearance

Wasps have a slender body with a narrow waist, slender, cylindrical legs, and appear smoothed-skinned and shiny. Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps are the most common types of wasps encountered by people.

Bees are robust-bodied and very hairy compared with wasps. Their hind legs are flattened for collecting and transporting pollen. Bees are important pollinators. Honeybees are responsible for more than 80% of the pollination required by most fruits, legumes, and vegetable seed plants as well as many ornamentals that are grown in our landscapes. Bumblebees are important pollinators of native prairie plants.

Food Preferences

Wasps are predators, feeding insects and other arthropods to their young, which develop in the nest. They are beneficial because they prey on many insects, including caterpillars, flies, crickets, and other pests. During late summer and fall, as queens stop laying eggs and their nests decline, wasps change their food gathering priorities and are more interested in collecting sweets and other carbohydrates. Some wasps may become aggressive scavengers around human food and may be common around outdoor activities where food or drinks are served.

Bees feed only on nectar (carbohydrates) and pollen (protein) from flowers. Honeybees sometimes visit trashcans and soft-drink containers to feed on sugary foods.

Nesting Sites

Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps make nests from a papery pulp comprised of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Yellow jacket and bald faced hornet nests consist of a series of rounded combs stacked in tiers. These combs are covered by an envelope consisting of several layers of pulp. Paper wasps construct only one comb without any protective envelope. These insects are sometimes known as umbrella wasps because of the shape of their nest.

Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps nest in quiet, out of the way places. Unfortunately, in urban areas this may conflict with people and their interests.

Yellow jackets commonly build nests below ground in old rodent burrows or other cavities. They can also build nests in trees, shrubs, under eaves, and inside attics or wall voids. Bald faced hornets commonly build nests in the open in trees as well as under eaves and along the sides of buildings.

Paper wasps build nests under any horizontal surface and are commonly found on limbs, overhangs, eaves of buildings, beams and supports in attics, garages, barns, sheds, and other similar places.

Honeybees make a series of vertical honeycombs made of wax. Their colonies are mostly in manufactured hives but they do occasionally nest in cavities in large trees, voids in building walls, or other protected areas.

Bumblebees use old mice burrows, cavities in buildings, and other locations to make their nests. Like honey bees, bumble bees make cells of wax.

Life Cycle of Wasps and Bees

and bumblebees have annual colonies that last for only one year. The colony dies in the fall with only the newly produced queens surviving the winter. The new queens leave their nests during late summer and mate with males. The queens then seek out overwintering sites, such as under loose bark, in rotted logs, under siding or tile, and in other small crevices and spaces, where they become dormant. These queens become active the following spring when temperatures warm. They search for favorable nesting sites to construct new nests. They do not reuse old nests.

Honeybees are perennial insects with colonies that survive more than one year. Honeybees form a cluster when hive temperatures approach 57° F. As the temperature drops, the cluster of bees becomes more compact. Bees inside this mass consume honey and generate heat so that those in the cluster do not freeze. As long as honey is available in the cluster, a strong colony can withstand temperatures down to -30° F. or lower for extended periods.

Wasp and Bee Stings

Wasps and bees sting to defend themselves or their colony. Stinging involves the injection of protein venom that causes pain and other reactions.

Wasps and bumblebees can sting more than once because they are able to pull out their stinger without injury to themselves. If a wasp or bumblebee stings you, the stinger is not left in your skin.

Honeybees have barbs on their stinger, which remain hooked in the skin. The stinger, which is connected to the digestive system of the bee, is torn out of the abdomen as the bee attempts to fly away. As a result, the bee soon dies. If a honeybee stings you, scratch out the stinger (with its attached venom gland) with your fingernail as soon as possible. Do not try to pull out the stinger between two fingers. Doing so only forces more venom into your skin, causing greater irritation.

Most people have only local reactions to wasp and bee stings, although a few may experience more serious allergic reactions. Local, non-allergic reactions range from burning, itching, redness, and tenderness to massive swelling and itching that may last up to a week. These local reactions can be treated with ice, vinegar, honey, meat tenderizer, or commercial topical ointment to relieve the itching. An allergic reaction may include hives or rash, swelling away from the sting site, headache, minor respiratory symptoms, and stomach upset. These allergic reactions are not life threatening and can be readily treated with an antihistamine.

Very rarely, a person may suffer a life-threatening, systemic allergic reaction to a bee or wasp sting, which can cause anaphylactic shock (fainting, difficulty breathing, swelling, and blockage in the throat) within minutes of being stung. These systemic symptoms are cause for immediate medical attention. People with known systemic allergic reactions to bee or wasp stings should consult with their physician to obtain an Epi-PenTM or Ana-Guard Sting KitTM to carry with them at all times. The venoms of bees and wasps are different, so having a severe reaction to a wasp sting does not mean a person will have the same reaction to a bee sting.

Control of Nests

The first step in wasp or bee control is to correctly identify the insect and locate its nesting site. An experienced pest control service may provide wasp or bee control service or you can use the following information to attempt to control them yourself.

Wasps

The best time of the year to control wasps is in June after the queen has established her colony and while the colony is still small. However, because nests are small, they are also harder to find. The best time of the day to control wasp nests is at night, when they are less active. At temperatures below 50° F, wasps have difficulty flying. Never seal a wasp nest until you are sure there are no surviving wasps inside. If a nest is not discovered until fall, control may be unnecessary, as imminent freezing temperatures will kill the colony.

Exposed wasp nests

Wasp nests that are visible but are not near your home or areas of human activity do not need to be treated. If they are not disturbed, the wasps will not bother you.

Nests that are near human activity can pose a potential problem. If there is a concern about stings, you should eradicate the nest.

Apply a ready-to-use aerosol “wasp and hornet spray” into the entrance of the nest during late evening according to label directions. If no activity is observed the next day, the nest has been successfully exterminated. If live wasps are still observed, repeat the treatment at three-day intervals until they are all dead.

Mechanical control without insecticides is possible for small, exposed nests. At night, cover the nest with a large, heavy, plastic bag and seal it shut. Cut the nest from the tree and freeze it or let the bag sit in the sun, which will kill the wasps inside in a day or two. Use caution: there is more risk involved in this procedure than in spraying the nest.

Ground wasp nests

When yellow jackets are found nesting in the ground, first try pouring a soap and water solution into the entrance. Many types of soap will work, including dish and laundry soap.

If that does not work, apply an insecticide into the nest opening. Be sure you use a product that is cleared for use in lawns or soil. Dusts are more effective than liquid insecticides because liquids do not always reach the nest. After you are sure all the wasps have been exterminated, cover the nest entrance with soil.

When treating ground-dwelling wasp nests, use one of the following insecticides:

carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a dust

chlorpyrifos (e.g. Dursban) as a dust

carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a liquid concentrate

acephate (e.g. Orthene) as a liquid concentrate

diazinon as a liquid concentrate

Concealed wasp nests

The most challenging nests to control are those that are concealed in voids behind walls or in attics. Often, the only evidence of the nest is wasps flying back and forth through a crack or hole in the home.

Aerosol insecticides usually do not work very well against hidden nests. The best method is to apply a small amount of insecticidal dust (dusts are less commonly available in stores than aerosols; be sure any dust you plan to use is labeled for use in homes). You may need to drill small (about 1/8 inch) holes to deliver the insecticide into the nest area. If the product you are using does not have a built-in applicator, you can use a plastic container with a tube tip or spout, such as an empty liquid detergent bottle, to “puff” the product into the void.

When treating wasp nests hidden in building voids, use one of the following insecticide dusts:

bendiocarb

chlorpyrifos

boric acid (will be slow acting)

If you would rather hire someone experienced to exterminate a wasp nest, talk to a reliable pest control service.

Concealed nests that are treated in the fall may force wasps into the home. If there is no immediate danger, it may be best to wait until freezing temperatures kill the nest. Do not seal the nest entrance until you are sure all wasps are dead. Closing the nest too early can force survivors into your home. When the wasps are dead, seal the entrance with caulk or something similar to prevent a new wasp queen from using the same entrance to build a new nest next year.

Old wasp nests

Wasp nests found during winter or early spring are old nests from the previous summer. There are no live wasps in the nest; they have already left the nest or died inside it. The nest can be safely removed and disposed of if desired. Wasps do not reuse old nests, so there is no risk if one is left. However, scavengers, such as carpet beetles, are attracted to an old nest and may become a nuisance if the nest is in your home.

Honeybee nests

Honeybees are normally housed in manufactured hives and managed by beekeepers. In some instances, wild colonies of honeybees may nest in hollow trees or in wall voids. Honeybees may become a nuisance in the spring at bird feeders and swimming pools as they forage for water. They seldom, if ever, are a nuisance in summer or early fall.

Wild colonies can be treated with the same insecticides and methods as described for exposed or concealed wasp nests. Combs inside buildings should be removed and destroyed to avoid problems with honey-stained damage to walls and secondary pest problems, such as carpet beetles, and attracting bee swarms in the future. Never use honey or wax from colonies that have been treated with an insecticide. Control of honeybee nests can be challenging. Consider hiring an experienced pest control service if a honeybee job appears too difficult.

Bumblebee nests

When a bumblebee nest is a nuisance, treat it with the same insecticides and methods as described for ground-nesting or concealed wasp nests.

Ground-nesting bees

There are other types of bees you may encounter that do not form colonies. Solitary andrenid bees are common ground-nesting bees. They are also important pollinators of native plants. They usually nest in sun-exposed, dry areas of yards. Although there is just one bee per nest, many of these bees typically nest close to each other. They are usually most conspicuous to the public during spring. Although many ground-nesting bees may be found flying around their nests in the spring, they are gentle and very rarely sting people.

Sprinkling the area of their nests with water may be enough to encourage them to move as they avoid damp areas. The same insecticides that control ground-nesting yellow jackets and bumble bees are effective against andrenid bees.

Wasps and Outdoor Activities

During late summer and fall, yellow jackets become aggressive scavengers and frequently disrupt outside activities where food or drink is served. Control of scavenging wasps is difficult, as there are no insecticides that effectively repel or discourage them.

The best strategy is to minimize attracting them. Wait to serve food and drink until people are ready to eat. Promptly put away food when done and throw garbage into a container with a tightly fitting lid. Examine glasses, cans, and other containers before drinking from them to check for wasps that may have flown inside. If a wasp flies to your food, wait for it to fly away or gently brush it away. If only a few yellow jackets are bothering your activity, ignoring them or capturing them with a net and crushing them may be sufficient. Traps may catch a considerable number of wasps, but not enough are captured to noticeably reduce the wasp population in the fall.

On Repairfinders.com if is easy to find Bee and Pest control services in your area. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time to browse our extensive list of businesses, that are more than willing to help you. All the companies listed on our site are hardworking, honest, diligent people who will give you the best price possible.

Gas leak… a real problem.

repairfinder — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 21:04:30 +0200

Although natural gas is by nature colorless and odorless, scents in the form of traces of mercaptans are usually added, to assist in identifying leaks. This odor commonly takes the form of rotting eggs. If this scent is detected, it is recommended to evacuate the area immediately, usually to the outside. Do not light fires/cigarettes, and do not operate electrical appliances/light switches/phones, as these may act as points of ignition. Once in a safe area, contact your natural gas provider.

Because of the Pipeline Safety Improvement Act of 2002 passed in the United States within the past few years, Federal Safety Standards require natural gas providing companies to conduct safety inspections for gas leaks in homes and other buildings receiving natural gas. The gas company is required to inspect gas meters and inside gas piping from the point of entry into the building to the outlet side of the gas meter for gas leaks. This requires entry into private homes by the natural gas companies in many cases.

Most state and federal agencies have adopted the Gas Piping and Technology Committee (GPTC) standards for grading natural gas leaks

A Grade 1 leak is a leak that represents an existing or probable hazard to persons or property, and requires immediate repair or continuous action until the conditions are no longer hazardous. Examples of a Grade 1 Leak are:

1. Any leak which, in the judgment of operating personnel at the scene, is regarded as an immediate hazard.

2. Escaping gas that has ignited.

3. Any indication of gas, which has migrated into or under a building, or into a tunnel.

4. Any reading at the outside wall of a building, or where gas would likely migrate to an out-side wall of a building.

5. Any reading of 80% LEL, or greater, in a confined space.

6. Any reading of 80% LEL, or greater in small substructures (other than gas associated sub structures) from which gas would likely migrate to the outside wall of a building.

7. Any leak that can be seen, heard, or felt, and which is in a location that may endanger the general public or property.

A Grade 2 Leak is a leak that is recognized as being non-hazardous at the time of detection, but justifies scheduled repair based on probable future hazard.

Examples of a Grade 2 Leak are:

A. Leaks Requiring Action Ahead of Ground Freezing or Other Adverse Changes in Venting Conditions. Any leak which, under frozen or other adverse soil conditions, would likely migrate to the outside wall of a building.

B. Leaks Requiring Action within Six Months

1. Any reading of 40% LEL, or greater, under a sidewalk in a wall-to-wall paved area that does not qualify as a Grade 1 leak.

2. Any reading of 100% LEL, or greater, under a street in a wall-to-wall paved area that has significant gas migration and does not qualify as a Grade 1 leak.

3. Any reading less than 80% LEL in small substructures (other than gas-associated substructures) from which gas would likely migrate creating a probable future hazard.

4. Any reading between 20% LEL and 80% LEL in a con-fined space.

5. Any reading on a pipeline operating at 30 percent SMYS, or greater, in a class 3 or 4 location, which does not qualify as a Grade 1 leak.

6. Any reading of 80% LEL, or greater, in gas associated sub-structures.

7. Any leak which, in the judgment of operating personnel at the scene, is of sufficient magnitude to justify scheduled repair.

A Grade 3 Leak is a leak that is non-hazardous at the time of detection and can be reasonably expected to remain non-hazardous.

Examples of a Grade 3 Leak are:

1. Any reading of less than 80% LEL in small gas associated substructures.

2. Any reading under a street in areas without wall-to-wall paving where it is unlikely the gas could migrate to the out-side wall of a building.

3. Any reading of less than 20% LEL in a confined space.

If you would like someone to inspect a possible gas leak in your home or office, the best place to go, is Repairfinders.com. All the businesses listed are hardworking, honest individuals, how are more than willing to assist you with any problem you may have. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time to find the company that is the best for you.

Garbage collection… not something you sh...

repairfinder — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 22:39:26 +0200

Garbage Collection

You all know it: while doing your daily work, you end up with a heap of garbage lying around your place. Ok, some other (probably small but important stuff) you put on a nice stack, but handling this is not so difficult, because it is nice and ordered. Now, there are several ways to clean your rooms, which I would like to categorize as follows:

Stop the world garbage collection

This is probably the most naive and most widely used approach. You simply usually do not care about the heap of garbage, and then you have one day (for example, Saturdays, or any other day, like when your mom comes for a visit) to clean up your flat. This usually takes a while, thus preventing you from doing anything else (stop the world). This is usually good enough if you live alone, and even for couples and families this works surprisingly well. However, for others, this is not acceptable.

Incremental garbage collection

This approach means, you clean up stuff all the time, in small chunks, and interleaved with your normal work. After breakfast, you clean the dishes instantly. After doing some work in the garden, you put all the things back to where they belong, etc. You get the idea. This is a little tedious and makes all your work a little less fun (unless you are a true genius and consider cleaning up fun), but it has the big advantage, that your place is usually in a state where you can let in surprise visits from moms and girls without going crazy.

Parallel garbage collection

Ok, this is an advanced approach for couples and families only. It is easy: if you share the work, you get it done faster. Therefore, on the Saturday, you simply do not clean the flat alone, you let your wife and kids help you and get it done faster. Everybody can clean his own rooms for example. Then you even have some spare time for a walk in the afternoon. Great. Advice: teach your kids about cleaning up early, so they can take over some cleaning tasks as well.

Parallel incremental garbage collection

This is a combination of the incremental and parallel approach and very effective, but also quite difficult. You have to get all your family members to clean up stuff all the time (directly after the breakfast, lunch, work, etc) and you do it all together. This is not so easy, because you have to share the work somehow. Maybe one can clean dishes, the other dry the dishes. Alternatively, one brings things to their places and the other clean the ground. Nevertheless, you see, there is a limitation doing this. It is not so easy to share up these small chunks of work. You should try it, and if it works for you, cool, if not, do one of the other approaches.

Real time garbage collection

This is something for real workaholics and control freaks. It means that cleaning up your place has to be finished in a guaranteed and not-too-long timeframe. It is not allowed to exceed the timeframe you originally promise (to yourself, your wife, your employer, etc). Many people consider this outright impossible, others say, just do not throw things on a heap, only use small nice stacks. However, some people in Jamaica figured out a way to actually do it. The trick is this (a little simplified): Every time you want to throw something around your flat on the heap of garbage, you first clean up a part of this heap. How much you have to clean up depends on how big the heap already is. When there is lots of stuff, then you have to do much, if there is not so much stuff lying around, you are allowed to only work a little. However, there is always a hard limit on how much work is done. If this is finished, you can throw stuff around. This works well and you can always give hard real time guarantees to whoever asks that. But it takes a certain discipline to actually do it.

Now any of these are good and well for someone who has the time and the commitment to do so. But what about those like you and I who do not have the time to perform these tasks? On Repairfinders.com, you can find someone who is more than willing to do this for you. We also have many different hauling and garbage disposal companies in your area. All it takes is a couple of minutes to search our site and find the one that is best for you.

Interior design and decorating!

repairfinder — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 00:41:52 +0200

Interior designers draw upon many disciplines to enhance the function, safety, and aesthetics of interior spaces. Their main concerns are with how different colors, textures, furniture, lighting, and space work together to meet the needs of a building’s occupants. Designers plan interior spaces of almost every type of building, including offices, airport terminals, theaters, shopping malls, restaurants, hotels, schools, hospitals, and private residences. Good design can boost office productivity, increase sales, attract a more affluent clientele, provide a more relaxing hospital stay, or increase a building’s market value.

Traditionally, most interior designers focused on decorating-choosing a style and color palette and then selecting appropriate furniture, floor and window coverings, artwork, and lighting. However, an increasing number of designers are becoming involved in architectural detailing, such as crown molding and built-in bookshelves, and in planning layouts of buildings undergoing renovation, including helping to determine the location of windows, stairways, escalators, and walkways.

Interior designers must be able to read blueprints, understand building and fire codes, and know how to make space accessible to people who are disabled. Designers frequently collaborate with architects, electricians, and building contractors to ensure that designs are safe and meet construction requirements.

Whatever space they are working on, almost all designers follow the same process. The first step, known as programming, is to determine the client’s needs and wishes. The designer usually meets face-to-face with the client to find out how the space will be used and to get an idea of the client’s preferences and budget. For example, the designer might inquire about a family’s cooking habits if the family is remodeling a kitchen or ask about a store or restaurant’s target customer in order to pick an appropriate motif. The designer also will visit the space to take inventory of existing furniture and equipment and identify positive attributes of the space and potential problems.

Then, the designer formulates a design plan and estimates costs. Today, designs often are created with the use of computer-aided design (CAD), which provides more detail and easier corrections than sketches made by hand. Once the designer completes the proposed design, he or she will present it to the client and make revisions based on the client’s input.

When the design concept is decided upon, the designer will begin specifying the materials, finishes, and furnishings required, such as furniture, lighting, flooring, wall covering, and artwork. Depending on the complexity of the project, the designer also might submit drawings for approval by a construction inspector to ensure that the design meets building codes. If a project requires structural work, the designer works with an architect or engineer for that part of the project. Most designs also require the hiring of contractors to do technical work, such as lighting, plumbing, or electrical wiring. Often designers choose contractors and write work contracts.

Finally, the designer develops a timeline for the project, coordinates contractor work schedules, and makes sure work is completed on time. The designer oversees the installation of the design elements, and after the project is complete, the designer, together with the client, pay follow-up visits to the building site to ensure that the client is satisfied. If the client is not satisfied, the designer makes corrections.

Designers who work for furniture or home and garden stores sell merchandise in addition to offering design services. In-store designers provide services, such as selecting a style and color scheme that fits the client’s needs or finding suitable accessories and lighting, similar to those offered by other interior designers. However, in-store designers rarely visit clients’ spaces and use only a particular store’s products or catalogs.

Interior designers sometimes supervise assistants who carry out their plans and perform administrative tasks, such as reviewing catalogues and ordering samples. Designers who run their own businesses also may devote considerable time to developing new business contacts, examining equipment and space needs, and attending to business matters.

Although most interior designers do many kinds of projects, some specialize in one area of interior design. Some specialize in the type of building space-usually residential or commercial-while others specialize in a certain design element or type of client, such as health care facilities. The most common specialties of this kind are lighting, kitchen and bath, and closet designs. However, designers can specialize in almost any area of design, including acoustics and noise abatement, security, electronics and home theaters, home spas, and indoor gardens.

Three areas of design that are becoming increasingly popular are ergonomic design, elder design, and environmental-or green-design. Ergonomic design involves designing workspaces and furniture that emphasize good posture and minimize muscle strain on the body. Elder design involves planning interior space to aid in the movement of people who are elderly and disabled. Green design involves selecting furniture and carpets that are free of chemicals and hypoallergenic and selecting construction materials that are energy efficient or are made from renewable resources

Work environment. Working conditions and places of employment vary. Interior designers employed by large corporations or design firms generally work regular hours in well-lighted and comfortable settings. Designers in smaller design consulting firms or those who freelance generally work on a contract, or job, basis. They frequently adjust their workday to suit their clients’ schedules and deadlines, meeting with clients during evening or weekend hours when necessary. Consultants and self-employed designers tend to work longer hours and in smaller, more congested environments.

Interior designers may work under stress to meet deadlines, stay on budget, and please clients. Self-employed designers also are under pressure to find new clients to maintain a steady income.

Designers may work in their own offices or studios or in clients’ homes or offices. They also may travel to other locations, such as showrooms, design centers, clients’ exhibit sites, and manufacturing facilities. With the increased speed and sophistication of computers and advanced communications networks, designers may form international design teams, serve a more geographically dispersed clientele, research design alternatives by using information on the Internet, and purchase supplies electronically.

Postsecondary education, especially a bachelor’s degree, is recommended for entry-level positions in interior design. Two-year and 3-year programs also are available. Some States license interior designers.

Education and training. Postsecondary education, especially a bachelor’s degree, is recommended for entry-level positions in interior design. Training programs are available from professional design schools or from colleges and universities and usually take 2 to 4 years to complete. Graduates of 2-year or 3-year programs are awarded certificates or associate degrees in interior design and normally qualify as assistants to interior designers upon graduation. Graduates with a bachelor’s degree usually qualify for a formal design apprenticeship program.

The National Association of Schools of Art and Design accredits approximately 250 postsecondary institutions with programs in art and design. Most of these schools award a degree in interior design. Applicants may be required to submit sketches and other examples of their artistic ability. Basic coursework includes computer-aided design (CAD), drawing, perspective, spatial planning, color and fabrics, furniture design, architecture, ergonomics, ethics, and psychology.

The National Council for Interior Design Accreditation also accredits interior design programs that lead to a bachelor’s degree. In 2007, there were 145 accredited bachelor’s degree programs in interior design in the United States; most are part of schools or departments of art, architecture, and home economics.

After the completion of formal training, interior designers will enter a 1-year to 3-year apprenticeship to gain experience before taking a licensing exam. Most apprentices work in design or architecture firms under the supervision of an experienced designer. Apprentices also may choose to gain experience working as an in-store designer in furniture stores. The National Council of Interior Design offers the Interior Design Experience Program, which helps entry-level interior designers gain valuable work experience by supervising work experience and offering mentoring services and workshops to new designers.

Licensure. Twenty-three States, the District of Columbia, and Puerto Rico register or license interior designers. The National Council administers the licensing exam for Interior Design Qualification. To be eligible to take the exam, applicants must have at least 6 years of combined education and experience in interior design, of which at least 2 years must be postsecondary education in design.

Once candidates have passed the qualifying exam, they are granted the title of Certified, Registered, or Licensed Interior Designer, depending on the State. Continuing education is required to maintain licensure.

Other qualifications. Membership in a professional association is one indication of an interior designer’s qualifications and professional standing. The American Society of Interior Designers is the largest professional association for interior designers in the United States. Interior designers can qualify for membership with at least a 2-year degree and work experience.

Employers increasingly prefer interior designers who are familiar with computer-aided design software and the basics of architecture and engineering to ensure that their designs meet building safety codes.

In addition to possessing technical knowledge, interior designers must be creative, imaginative, and persistent and must be able to communicate their ideas visually, verbally, and in writing. Because tastes in style can change quickly, designers need to be well read, open to new ideas and influences, and quick to react to changing trends. Problem-solving skills and the ability to work independently and under pressure are additional important traits. People in this field need self-discipline to start projects on their own, to budget their time, and to meet deadlines and production schedules. Good business sense and sales ability also are important, especially for those who freelance or run their own business.

Certification and advancement. Optional certifications in kitchen and bath design are available from the National Kitchen and Bath Association. The association offers three different levels of certification for kitchen and bath designers, each achieved through training seminars and certification exams.

Beginning interior designers receive on-the-job training and normally need 1 to 3 years of training before they can advance to higher-level positions. Experienced designers in large firms may advance to chief designer, design department head, or some other supervisory position. Some experienced designers open their own firms or decide to specialize in one aspect of interior design. Other designers leave the occupation to become teachers in schools of design or in colleges and universities. Many faculty members continue to consult privately or operate small design studios to complement their classroom activities.

Interior design and decoration is a very fulfilling and well paying job. However not everyone has the eye, or the diligence to compete in this field. If you are looking for an extraordinary designer take, couples of minutes, go to Repairfinders.com, and look at our extensive list of designers and decorators in your area. All of the businesses listed are hardworking, reliable, and trustworthy. You will always receive the best service.

Find the perfect person to paint the int...

repairfinder — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 22:39:28 +0200

Paint Types in House Painting

Choosing your paint is probably the most important thing you will do on your project. This is because most paints are designed for a specific purpose. Primer paints are designed to adhere to raw surfaces and then to stick to a protective coat over the top of it. In general, there are four types of raw surfaces that you might want to paint over, wood, masonry, drywall, and bare metal. You should be able to find a primer that will work on your bare surface. Do not be tempted to simply skip the primer coat as finish paints will sometimes not stick well to the surface, especially metals.

The big question for many painters is whether they should use oil or water based paints. Glossy oils tend to be more impermeable to water and will bubble up if the surface beneath is damp. Latex and other water based paints will make wallpaper peel. Industry experts have argued for a long time over which formula is better in general. For exterior applications, water-based paints have the upper hand. Besides allowing the house to breathe, they tend not to crack as readily. In addition, they have the great advantage of water clean up. In addition, if you are worried about the ultimate environmental impact, water-based paints tend to be friendlier to the eco-system. Oil paints usually have a stronger and more overpowering odor. You should always ventilate well when painting, but it will seem even more vital with oil-based paints.

Even so, oil is often the choice to make, especially when painting over a surface that was previously painted with an oil base. If you simply must use a water-based paint over an oil-based paint, you should sand down the finish then prime it so that the paints will adhere to each other.

Although the price is not always the best indicator of quality, it does serve as a good general guideline. Also, the warrantee on paint will indicate how long it is likely to last. Remember that even inexpensive paint is relatively cheap when compared to the amount of time it takes to apply it. Better to have a durable paint that lasts a few extra years than a cheap one that gives out in less than five years.

Pigments in paints also make a difference. Cheaper paints often have cheaper pigments, so they tend not to cover as well, requiring more than one coat. Here again labor is a factor. Two coats of a paint that costs you half as much, is really only doubling your labor. Yellows tend to be the fastest fading color. Titanium dioxide is reported to be the best pigment. If you are buying an expensive paint, be sure to check the can for this ingredient.

Solids are included in paints to thicken the coating. It is calculated as the percentage of the paint that finally adheres to the wall. Solids generally run more than 40 percent of the paint. Higher than 45 is considered good. Do not look for this item on the can, as it is not usually on the label. The solids and pigment are held together with binders. In an acrylic paint, you will want to have all-acrylic binders for exterior paint. For interior paints, this factor is not as important.

Oil and acrylic will both cover most exterior surfaces, but stucco is a special case. Be sure to use an elastomeric paint, which continues to cover small cracks that can develop. Old aluminum siding can be painted. The old paint should be removed and a coat of latex primer and an additional coat or two of exterior paint can then be applied for an acceptable and durable finish.

When you go into the paint store, you will be confronted with flat, satin, and glossy paints. You should use flat for general background surfaces that are not subject to much wear and tear. Satin is better in bathrooms and kitchens where you would like to be able to clean the surface repeatedly over the years. Glossy paints accentuate a surface and bring people’s attention to it. It also tends to be easier to wipe clean. Use glossy paints on cabinets, banisters, some molding and places where little fingers are constantly smudging. Remember, though glossy paints are easier to clean, they tend to show imperfections in wood, drywall, etc.

It probably goes without saying that you should use exterior paints outside and interior paints on the inside. The fact is that exterior paints are designed to be more durable in the elements and interior paints are designed to adhere better to surfaces commonly found indoors. Recent years have brought about advancements in eco-friendly paints with zero or low VOCs. These are worth checking into especially for those who have health concerns or who frequently work with paint.

If you are looking for a hardworking, reliable, and trustworthy person to paint the interior or exterior of your home, the only place to search is on Repairfinders.com. On this site it will only take you a couple of minutes to find a qualified professional in your area who is more than happy to paint your home, quickly, efficiently, and for a reasonable price. For all your repair needs there is only one place to go, and that is Repairfinders.com

Musical Instrument Repair in your neighb...

repairfinder — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 19:48:16 +0200

Sometimes your guitar just will not sound right. Since guitars are usually made out of wood, it is affected by changes in temperature and humidity. A guitar that is not periodically adjusted properly will never live up to its full potential.

Intonation: Poorly adjusted intonation can cause a guitar to sound out of tune. It will make your guitar to sound messy when playing open chords, or sound slightly out of tune when you play higher up on the neck. Once you develop a good ear, this will drive you crazy. You can easily find a repairperson on Repairfinders.com to fix this for you quickly.

Intonation on a guitar should be adjusted if you ever change the gauge (thickness) of strings you use, if you change the action (distance between string and fret board) and at least twice a year (winter/summer). Some people suggest checking every time you change strings, although this is probably not necessary.

Intonation on an electric guitar is adjusted by moving its bridge saddles forward or backward. A bridge saddle is the piece of metal on the bridge that the string rests on. These can be adjusted with a small screwdriver (some guitars use an Allen wrench.) Your goal when setting the intonation is to make an open string sound exactly the same as the 12th fret on that string. In order to do this you will need an electric tuner.
In theory, the distance from the nut to the 12th fret should be the same as the distance between the 12th fret and the saddle. The 12th fret is supposed to be the halfway point. In reality, when we press down on the 12th fret, the string stretches, so it will generally sound a slightly higher pitch. To offset this annoying bit of physics we must adjust the ‘length’ of the string by moving the bridge saddles. If you move the bridge saddle back, you will increase the length of the string, therefore the guitar will sound less sharp when you fret notes.

If you are confused, forget about what I told you for a second, and follow the simple directions below or hop onto Repairfinders.com and have a qualified professional look at this for you.

Hit the 12th fret harmonic on your Low E-string. (You do this by lightly touching -not pressing- the string just above the fret. Chances are you probably knew that already.) Then press your finger down and play the 12th fret naturally. Your tuner (or your ear) will probably tell you that the two notes are (at least) a little out of tune.

THE BASIC RULE FOR SETTING INTONATION
If the 12th fret (pressed) sounds sharper (higher in pitch) than the harmonic, move the saddle back (away from the neck and pickups) and turn the screw clockwise.
If the note sounds flat, (lower in pitch) compared to the harmonic, move the saddle forward (toward the pickups)

Very Important: Remember to tune the string back to E each time you make an adjustment, before checking the intonation again. Often enough, the screws need to be adjusted very little. A tiny turn can make a big difference so start slow. Once you have properly intonated one string move to the next, until you are done with all six strings. The whole process rarely takes more than a half hour once you get used to it, but it may take a little longer at first, so hang in there. Once you are able, you will be proud of yourself.

Also, remember that the guitar, by its very nature, is an imperfect instrument. It is impossible to adjust intonation 100% perfectly. This might be obnoxious if you have an incredibly good ear, but you will just have to get used to it or give up the guitar.

It will be easier to get good intonation from your guitar if you use heavier gauge strings. If you use anything below, gauge .010 strings you may have problems. Personally, I use gauge .011 stings. Some people have trouble playing with heavy strings, but I swear, once you get used to them you will never go back. I strongly recommend using at least gauge .010

Also, do not adjust the action of your guitar or the truss rod after fixing your intonation. You would just have to do it all over again. If you need to adjust these things, do it first. These are other factors that affect the intonation of your guitar. If you use light strings, you may need to move the saddles back further, the same holds true if your strings are far from the fret board.

You must always keep your instrument finely tuned if you wish to receive many years of wonderful music from it. This is only an example of how easily someone in your area can assist you. However, no matter what kind of instrument you have, or whatever problem you may be experiencing, do not fear! On Repairfinders.com, it will take you only a couple of minutes to find a local business in your area to fix your guitar, piano, flute, saxophone, or any other instrument! So what are you waiting for? Jack is over and out.

The basics about Home phone repair revea...

repairfinder — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 23:17:28 +0200

You pick up the phone to make a call and there is no dial tone on the phone. What do you do? One option is to call the phone company and let them charge you money to tell you that you need to buy a new phone. A better option is to do a some detective work first. If you do end up calling the phone company (from a different phone,) they will ask you questions. With a little investigation, you will know the answer.

The phone line is connected to your house at a junction box. Phone geeks call the junction box a “network interface device.” It is usually outside the home near the foundation. A no dial tone problem will fall into two categories. The phone company is responsible for any problem with the junction box or the phone line beyond. The homeowner is responsible for anything wrong from the junction box into the home. That is true unless the homeowner has purchased a service agreement from the phone company. Part of the investigation will be to determine who has to pay to fix the problem, the homeowner or the phone company.

Determine if the problem is with one phone or all of the phones in the home. If another phone is working, unplug it and plug it in where the trouble phone was. If the new phone works, you know the problem is in the phone that was plugged in there. To check further, plug the dysfunctional phone into a working phone jack. It will not work there either. It is time to buy a new phone.

If no phone in the house has a dial tone, unplug one and take it to the junction box. When you open the junction box, you will see a phone jack. Unplug the wire from the jack and plug in the phone. Does the phone have a dial tone now? If it does, it means that the problem is in the wiring to the house. If it does not, it is time to call the phone company because the problem is theirs.

When a cordless phone has no dial tone, there are two additional considerations. Cordless phones do not work without electricity. They do not work in a blackout. Check to see that the power is on, and then proceed as above. Be sure to keep a phone with a cord to use during power outages. Another thing to check is the handset battery. A cordless phone goes dead when the battery does.

If a phone has no dial tone and is plugged into an answering machine, remove the answering machine and plug the phone directly into the phone line to test it. If the phone now has a dial tone, the problem is in the answering machine.

When some phones in the house work and others do not, the problem is most likely within the house. Assume that all the non-functioning phone lines connect at some point, probably in the basement or crawl space. By tracing the lines, you can find the junction where the problem is. Many home phone wiring problems can be repaired with modular wires and jacks that need only to be plugged into each other.

When the phone does not have a dial tone, do not panic. By following the steps above, you can find the source of the problem quickly and determine if you need to spend some money or if you just need to call the phone company to report the outage. With all the modular wiring and accessories available, most homeowners can fix their own wiring.

However folks at home, if you are like me and don’t have time to check these things out, or you don’t want to make matters worse, go to Repairfinders.com and find a qualified telephone inspector that can assist you in fixing any telephone problem that you may have.