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Wasps and bees are beneficial insects, although they are generally considered pests because of their ability to sting. Wasps, in particular, can become a problem in autumn when they may disrupt many outdoor activities. People often mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees”. While both social wasps and bees live in colonies ruled by queens and maintained by workers, they look and behave differently. It is important to distinguish between these insects because different methods may be necessary to control them if they become a nuisance.

Appearance

Wasps have a slender body with a narrow waist, slender, cylindrical legs, and appear smoothed-skinned and shiny. Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps are the most common types of wasps encountered by people.

Bees are robust-bodied and very hairy compared with wasps. Their hind legs are flattened for collecting and transporting pollen. Bees are important pollinators. Honeybees are responsible for more than 80% of the pollination required by most fruits, legumes, and vegetable seed plants as well as many ornamentals that are grown in our landscapes. Bumblebees are important pollinators of native prairie plants.

Food Preferences

Wasps are predators, feeding insects and other arthropods to their young, which develop in the nest. They are beneficial because they prey on many insects, including caterpillars, flies, crickets, and other pests. During late summer and fall, as queens stop laying eggs and their nests decline, wasps change their food gathering priorities and are more interested in collecting sweets and other carbohydrates. Some wasps may become aggressive scavengers around human food and may be common around outdoor activities where food or drinks are served.

Bees feed only on nectar (carbohydrates) and pollen (protein) from flowers. Honeybees sometimes visit trashcans and soft-drink containers to feed on sugary foods.

Nesting Sites

Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps make nests from a papery pulp comprised of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Yellow jacket and bald faced hornet nests consist of a series of rounded combs stacked in tiers. These combs are covered by an envelope consisting of several layers of pulp. Paper wasps construct only one comb without any protective envelope. These insects are sometimes known as umbrella wasps because of the shape of their nest.

Yellow jackets, bald faced hornets, and paper wasps nest in quiet, out of the way places. Unfortunately, in urban areas this may conflict with people and their interests.

Yellow jackets commonly build nests below ground in old rodent burrows or other cavities. They can also build nests in trees, shrubs, under eaves, and inside attics or wall voids. Bald faced hornets commonly build nests in the open in trees as well as under eaves and along the sides of buildings.

Paper wasps build nests under any horizontal surface and are commonly found on limbs, overhangs, eaves of buildings, beams and supports in attics, garages, barns, sheds, and other similar places.

Honeybees make a series of vertical honeycombs made of wax. Their colonies are mostly in manufactured hives but they do occasionally nest in cavities in large trees, voids in building walls, or other protected areas.

Bumblebees use old mice burrows, cavities in buildings, and other locations to make their nests. Like honey bees, bumble bees make cells of wax.

Life Cycle of Wasps and Bees

and bumblebees have annual colonies that last for only one year. The colony dies in the fall with only the newly produced queens surviving the winter. The new queens leave their nests during late summer and mate with males. The queens then seek out overwintering sites, such as under loose bark, in rotted logs, under siding or tile, and in other small crevices and spaces, where they become dormant. These queens become active the following spring when temperatures warm. They search for favorable nesting sites to construct new nests. They do not reuse old nests.

Honeybees are perennial insects with colonies that survive more than one year. Honeybees form a cluster when hive temperatures approach 57° F. As the temperature drops, the cluster of bees becomes more compact. Bees inside this mass consume honey and generate heat so that those in the cluster do not freeze. As long as honey is available in the cluster, a strong colony can withstand temperatures down to -30° F. or lower for extended periods.

Wasp and Bee Stings

Wasps and bees sting to defend themselves or their colony. Stinging involves the injection of protein venom that causes pain and other reactions.

Wasps and bumblebees can sting more than once because they are able to pull out their stinger without injury to themselves. If a wasp or bumblebee stings you, the stinger is not left in your skin.

Honeybees have barbs on their stinger, which remain hooked in the skin. The stinger, which is connected to the digestive system of the bee, is torn out of the abdomen as the bee attempts to fly away. As a result, the bee soon dies. If a honeybee stings you, scratch out the stinger (with its attached venom gland) with your fingernail as soon as possible. Do not try to pull out the stinger between two fingers. Doing so only forces more venom into your skin, causing greater irritation.

Most people have only local reactions to wasp and bee stings, although a few may experience more serious allergic reactions. Local, non-allergic reactions range from burning, itching, redness, and tenderness to massive swelling and itching that may last up to a week. These local reactions can be treated with ice, vinegar, honey, meat tenderizer, or commercial topical ointment to relieve the itching. An allergic reaction may include hives or rash, swelling away from the sting site, headache, minor respiratory symptoms, and stomach upset. These allergic reactions are not life threatening and can be readily treated with an antihistamine.

Very rarely, a person may suffer a life-threatening, systemic allergic reaction to a bee or wasp sting, which can cause anaphylactic shock (fainting, difficulty breathing, swelling, and blockage in the throat) within minutes of being stung. These systemic symptoms are cause for immediate medical attention. People with known systemic allergic reactions to bee or wasp stings should consult with their physician to obtain an Epi-PenTM or Ana-Guard Sting KitTM to carry with them at all times. The venoms of bees and wasps are different, so having a severe reaction to a wasp sting does not mean a person will have the same reaction to a bee sting.

Control of Nests

The first step in wasp or bee control is to correctly identify the insect and locate its nesting site. An experienced pest control service may provide wasp or bee control service or you can use the following information to attempt to control them yourself.

Wasps

The best time of the year to control wasps is in June after the queen has established her colony and while the colony is still small. However, because nests are small, they are also harder to find. The best time of the day to control wasp nests is at night, when they are less active. At temperatures below 50° F, wasps have difficulty flying. Never seal a wasp nest until you are sure there are no surviving wasps inside. If a nest is not discovered until fall, control may be unnecessary, as imminent freezing temperatures will kill the colony.

Exposed wasp nests

Wasp nests that are visible but are not near your home or areas of human activity do not need to be treated. If they are not disturbed, the wasps will not bother you.

Nests that are near human activity can pose a potential problem. If there is a concern about stings, you should eradicate the nest.

Apply a ready-to-use aerosol “wasp and hornet spray” into the entrance of the nest during late evening according to label directions. If no activity is observed the next day, the nest has been successfully exterminated. If live wasps are still observed, repeat the treatment at three-day intervals until they are all dead.

Mechanical control without insecticides is possible for small, exposed nests. At night, cover the nest with a large, heavy, plastic bag and seal it shut. Cut the nest from the tree and freeze it or let the bag sit in the sun, which will kill the wasps inside in a day or two. Use caution: there is more risk involved in this procedure than in spraying the nest.

Ground wasp nests

When yellow jackets are found nesting in the ground, first try pouring a soap and water solution into the entrance. Many types of soap will work, including dish and laundry soap.

If that does not work, apply an insecticide into the nest opening. Be sure you use a product that is cleared for use in lawns or soil. Dusts are more effective than liquid insecticides because liquids do not always reach the nest. After you are sure all the wasps have been exterminated, cover the nest entrance with soil.

When treating ground-dwelling wasp nests, use one of the following insecticides:

carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a dust

chlorpyrifos (e.g. Dursban) as a dust

carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a liquid concentrate

acephate (e.g. Orthene) as a liquid concentrate

diazinon as a liquid concentrate

Concealed wasp nests

The most challenging nests to control are those that are concealed in voids behind walls or in attics. Often, the only evidence of the nest is wasps flying back and forth through a crack or hole in the home.

Aerosol insecticides usually do not work very well against hidden nests. The best method is to apply a small amount of insecticidal dust (dusts are less commonly available in stores than aerosols; be sure any dust you plan to use is labeled for use in homes). You may need to drill small (about 1/8 inch) holes to deliver the insecticide into the nest area. If the product you are using does not have a built-in applicator, you can use a plastic container with a tube tip or spout, such as an empty liquid detergent bottle, to “puff” the product into the void.

When treating wasp nests hidden in building voids, use one of the following insecticide dusts:

bendiocarb

chlorpyrifos

boric acid (will be slow acting)

If you would rather hire someone experienced to exterminate a wasp nest, talk to a reliable pest control service.

Concealed nests that are treated in the fall may force wasps into the home. If there is no immediate danger, it may be best to wait until freezing temperatures kill the nest. Do not seal the nest entrance until you are sure all wasps are dead. Closing the nest too early can force survivors into your home. When the wasps are dead, seal the entrance with caulk or something similar to prevent a new wasp queen from using the same entrance to build a new nest next year.

Old wasp nests

Wasp nests found during winter or early spring are old nests from the previous summer. There are no live wasps in the nest; they have already left the nest or died inside it. The nest can be safely removed and disposed of if desired. Wasps do not reuse old nests, so there is no risk if one is left. However, scavengers, such as carpet beetles, are attracted to an old nest and may become a nuisance if the nest is in your home.

Honeybee nests

Honeybees are normally housed in manufactured hives and managed by beekeepers. In some instances, wild colonies of honeybees may nest in hollow trees or in wall voids. Honeybees may become a nuisance in the spring at bird feeders and swimming pools as they forage for water. They seldom, if ever, are a nuisance in summer or early fall.

Wild colonies can be treated with the same insecticides and methods as described for exposed or concealed wasp nests. Combs inside buildings should be removed and destroyed to avoid problems with honey-stained damage to walls and secondary pest problems, such as carpet beetles, and attracting bee swarms in the future. Never use honey or wax from colonies that have been treated with an insecticide. Control of honeybee nests can be challenging. Consider hiring an experienced pest control service if a honeybee job appears too difficult.

Bumblebee nests

When a bumblebee nest is a nuisance, treat it with the same insecticides and methods as described for ground-nesting or concealed wasp nests.

Ground-nesting bees

There are other types of bees you may encounter that do not form colonies. Solitary andrenid bees are common ground-nesting bees. They are also important pollinators of native plants. They usually nest in sun-exposed, dry areas of yards. Although there is just one bee per nest, many of these bees typically nest close to each other. They are usually most conspicuous to the public during spring. Although many ground-nesting bees may be found flying around their nests in the spring, they are gentle and very rarely sting people.

Sprinkling the area of their nests with water may be enough to encourage them to move as they avoid damp areas. The same insecticides that control ground-nesting yellow jackets and bumble bees are effective against andrenid bees.

Wasps and Outdoor Activities

During late summer and fall, yellow jackets become aggressive scavengers and frequently disrupt outside activities where food or drink is served. Control of scavenging wasps is difficult, as there are no insecticides that effectively repel or discourage them.

The best strategy is to minimize attracting them. Wait to serve food and drink until people are ready to eat. Promptly put away food when done and throw garbage into a container with a tightly fitting lid. Examine glasses, cans, and other containers before drinking from them to check for wasps that may have flown inside. If a wasp flies to your food, wait for it to fly away or gently brush it away. If only a few yellow jackets are bothering your activity, ignoring them or capturing them with a net and crushing them may be sufficient. Traps may catch a considerable number of wasps, but not enough are captured to noticeably reduce the wasp population in the fall.

On Repairfinders.com if is easy to find Bee and Pest control services in your area. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time to browse our extensive list of businesses, that are more than willing to help you. All the companies listed on our site are hardworking, honest, diligent people who will give you the best price possible.

Sometimes your guitar just will not sound right. Since guitars are usually made out of wood, it is affected by changes in temperature and humidity. A guitar that is not periodically adjusted properly will never live up to its full potential.

Intonation: Poorly adjusted intonation can cause a guitar to sound out of tune. It will make your guitar to sound messy when playing open chords, or sound slightly out of tune when you play higher up on the neck. Once you develop a good ear, this will drive you crazy. You can easily find a repairperson on Repairfinders.com to fix this for you quickly.

Intonation on a guitar should be adjusted if you ever change the gauge (thickness) of strings you use, if you change the action (distance between string and fret board) and at least twice a year (winter/summer). Some people suggest checking every time you change strings, although this is probably not necessary.

Intonation on an electric guitar is adjusted by moving its bridge saddles forward or backward. A bridge saddle is the piece of metal on the bridge that the string rests on. These can be adjusted with a small screwdriver (some guitars use an Allen wrench.) Your goal when setting the intonation is to make an open string sound exactly the same as the 12th fret on that string. In order to do this you will need an electric tuner.
In theory, the distance from the nut to the 12th fret should be the same as the distance between the 12th fret and the saddle. The 12th fret is supposed to be the halfway point. In reality, when we press down on the 12th fret, the string stretches, so it will generally sound a slightly higher pitch. To offset this annoying bit of physics we must adjust the ‘length’ of the string by moving the bridge saddles. If you move the bridge saddle back, you will increase the length of the string, therefore the guitar will sound less sharp when you fret notes.

If you are confused, forget about what I told you for a second, and follow the simple directions below or hop onto Repairfinders.com and have a qualified professional look at this for you.

Hit the 12th fret harmonic on your Low E-string. (You do this by lightly touching -not pressing- the string just above the fret. Chances are you probably knew that already.) Then press your finger down and play the 12th fret naturally. Your tuner (or your ear) will probably tell you that the two notes are (at least) a little out of tune.

THE BASIC RULE FOR SETTING INTONATION
If the 12th fret (pressed) sounds sharper (higher in pitch) than the harmonic, move the saddle back (away from the neck and pickups) and turn the screw clockwise.
If the note sounds flat, (lower in pitch) compared to the harmonic, move the saddle forward (toward the pickups)

Very Important: Remember to tune the string back to E each time you make an adjustment, before checking the intonation again. Often enough, the screws need to be adjusted very little. A tiny turn can make a big difference so start slow. Once you have properly intonated one string move to the next, until you are done with all six strings. The whole process rarely takes more than a half hour once you get used to it, but it may take a little longer at first, so hang in there. Once you are able, you will be proud of yourself.

Also, remember that the guitar, by its very nature, is an imperfect instrument. It is impossible to adjust intonation 100% perfectly. This might be obnoxious if you have an incredibly good ear, but you will just have to get used to it or give up the guitar.

It will be easier to get good intonation from your guitar if you use heavier gauge strings. If you use anything below, gauge .010 strings you may have problems. Personally, I use gauge .011 stings. Some people have trouble playing with heavy strings, but I swear, once you get used to them you will never go back. I strongly recommend using at least gauge .010

Also, do not adjust the action of your guitar or the truss rod after fixing your intonation. You would just have to do it all over again. If you need to adjust these things, do it first. These are other factors that affect the intonation of your guitar. If you use light strings, you may need to move the saddles back further, the same holds true if your strings are far from the fret board.

You must always keep your instrument finely tuned if you wish to receive many years of wonderful music from it. This is only an example of how easily someone in your area can assist you. However, no matter what kind of instrument you have, or whatever problem you may be experiencing, do not fear! On Repairfinders.com, it will take you only a couple of minutes to find a local business in your area to fix your guitar, piano, flute, saxophone, or any other instrument! So what are you waiting for? Jack is over and out.

Masonry is the building of structures from individual units laid in and bound together by mortar. The common materials of masonry construction are brick, stone such as marble, granite, travertine, limestone; concrete block, glass block, and tile. Masonry is generally a highly durable form of construction. However, the materials used, the quality of mortar and workmanship, and the pattern the units are laid in can strongly affect the durability of the overall masonry construction.

Applications

Masonry is commonly used for the walls of buildings, retaining walls and monuments. Brick is the most common type of masonry and may be either weight bearing or a veneer. Concrete block masonry is rapidly gaining in popularity as a comparable material. Blocks - most of which have hollow cores - offer various possibilities in masonry construction, generally providing great compressive strength, and they’re generally best suited to structures with light transverse loading when the cores remain unfilled. Filling some or all of the cores with concrete, stone or steel reinforcement offers much greater tensile and lateral strength to structures.

Advantages

The use of materials such as brick and stone can increase the thermal mass of a building, giving increased comfort in the heat of summer and the cold of winter and can be ideal for passive solar applications.

Brick typically will not require painting and so can provide a structure with reduced life-cycle costs, although sealing appropriately will reduce potential spalling due to frost damage. Concrete block of the non-decorative variety generally is painted or stuccoed if exposed.

The appearance, especially when well crafted, can impart an impression of solidity and permanence.

Is very heat resistant and thus will provide good fire protection

Disadvantages

Extreme weather may cause degradation of the surface due to frost damage. This type of damage is common with certain types of brick, though relatively rare with concrete block. If non-concrete brick is to be used, care should be taken to select bricks suitable for the climate in question.

Masonry must be built upon a firm foundation to avoid potential settling and cracking. If expansive soils are present, this foundation may need to be quite elaborate and the services of a qualified structural engineer may be required.

The high weight increases structural requirements, especially in earthquake prone areas.

Structural limitations

Masonry boasts an impressive compressive strength but is much lower in tensile strength unless reinforced. The tensile strength of masonry walls can be strengthened by thickening the wall or by building masonry “piers at intervals. Where practical, steel reinforcement also can be introduced vertically and/or horizontally to greatly increase tensile strength, though this is most commonly done with poured walls.

Veneer masonry

Brick veneer construction has strength imparted by a framework of wood or a rough masonry wall of other material over which is placed a layer of bricks for weatherproofing and providing a finished appearance. The brick veneer wall is connected to the structural walls by “brick ties”, metal strips that are attached to the structural wall as well as the mortar joints of the brick veneer wall. There typically is an air gap between the brick veneer wall and the structural wall. As clay brick is not completely waterproof, the structural wall has a water-resistant surface and weep holes are left at the base of the brick veneer wall to ventilate the air gap.

Most insulated buildings that utilize concrete block, brick, veneers or some combination thereof feature interior insulation in the form of fiberglass batts between wooden wall studs or rigid insulation boards covered with plaster or drywall. In most climates, this insulation is much more effective on the exterior of the wall, allowing the building interior to take advantage of the aforementioned thermal mass of the masonry. This technique does require however, some sort of weather-resistant exterior surface over the insulation and, consequently, is generally more expensive.

Dry set masonry
The strength of a masonry wall is not entirely dependent on the bond between the building material and the mortar; the friction between the interlocking blocks of masonry is often strong enough to provide a great deal of strength on its own. The blocks sometimes have grooves or other surface features added to enhance this interlocking, and some dry set masonry structures forego mortar all together.

Solid masonry

Solid masonry, without steel reinforcement, tends to have very limited applications in modern wall construction. While such walls can be quite economical and suitable in some applications, susceptibility to earthquakes and collapse is a major issue. Solid unreinforced masonry walls tend to be low and thick as a consequence.

Brick

Solid brick masonry is made of two or more layers of bricks with the units running horizontally bound together with bricks running transverse to the wall. Each row of bricks is known as a course. The pattern of headers and stretchers employed gives rise to different bonds such as the common bond, the English bond, and the Flemish bond. There are no significant utilitarian differences between most bonds, but the appearance of the finished wall is affected. Vertically staggered bonds tend to be somewhat stronger and less prone to major cracking than a non-staggered bond.

Uniformity and rusticity

The selection of the brick used, especially for color, will affect the appearance of the final surface. In buildings built during the 1970’s, a high degree of uniformity of brick and accuracy in masonry was typical. In later periods, this style was thought to be too sterile, so attempts were made to emulate older, rougher work. Some brick surfaces are made to look particularly rustic by including “burnt” bricks, which have a darker color or an irregular shape. Others may use antique salvage bricks, or new bricks may be artificially aged by applying various surface treatments. The attempts at rusticity of the late 20th century have been carried forward by masons specializing in a free, artistic style, where the courses are intentionally not straight, instead weaving to form more organic impressions.

Serpentine masonry

A crinkle-crankle wall is a brick wall that follows a serpentine path, rather than a straight line. This type of wall is more resistant to toppling than a straight wall; so much so that it may be made of a single thickness of unreinforced brick and so despite its longer length may be more economical than a straight wall.

Concrete block

Blocks of cinder concrete, ordinary concrete or hollow tile are generically known as Concrete Masonry Units. They usually are much larger than ordinary bricks and so are much faster to lay for a wall of a given size. Furthermore, cinder and tile blocks have much lower water absorption rates than brick. They often are used as the structural core for veneered brick masonry, or are used alone for the walls of factories, garages and other “industrial” buildings where appearance is not a significant factor. Such blocks often receive a stucco surface for decoration. Surface-bonding cement sometimes is used in this application and can impart extra strength to a block wall.

The primary advantage of concrete blocks in comparison to smaller clay-based bricks is that a CMU structure can be reinforced by either fully grouting the voids or inserting vertical lengths of rebar and using grout to hold them in place. In this manner, a CMU wall can be built much stronger than typical masonry walls.

Some concrete blocks are colored, and some employ a split face, a technique that results in two blocks being manufactured as one unit and later split into two. This gives the blocks a rough face replicating the appearance of natural, quarried stone, such as brownstone. For applications such as roadway sound control walls, the patterns may be complex and even artistic.

Decorative CMUs have gained in popularity also, with units featuring a glazed, burnished or glossy finish emerging as innovative new options in interior veneers. Decorative CMUs most often appear in financial institutions, schools and other municipal or professional settings where an aesthetic-but-durable, or a virtually marbled product, is appropriate. Such blocks usually have a smooth finish and can have a visible internal aggregates, a solid uniformly colored glaze, or a visible aggregates protected by a clear sealant.

A-Jacks

A-jacks are high stability, concrete 6-pronged armor units designed to interlock into a flexible, highly permeable matrix. They can be installed either randomly or in a uniform pattern. They look like giant 3-foot versions of the metal jacks kids play with. In the uniform placement pattern, each unit is in contact with the six adjacent units, providing high stability. They are patterned after the buckyball model.

Stone

Stone blocks used in masonry can be “dressed” or “rough.” Stone masonry utilizing dressed stones is known as ashlars’ masonry, whereas masonry using irregularly shaped stones is known as rubble masonry. Both rubble and ashlars’ masonry can be laid in courses through the careful selection or cutting of stones, but a great deal of stone masonry is uncoursed.

Sometimes “river rock” is used as a veneer. This type of material is not favored for solid masonry as it requires a great amount of mortar and can lack intrinsic structural strength.

Growing in popularity among builders and homeowners are manufactured-stone veneers. Companies such as many architects and developers have found manufactured stone veneers to be the most cost effective and environmentally sound choice for the building’s exterior walls as well as many areas throughout the project, such as interior walls and landscape areas.

Natural stone veneers such as those produced by Arnold Stone are also used by many builders and masons but in a world of diminishing natural resources, the decision to use natural veneers is one that is important on each project.

Gabions

Gabions are rectangular wire baskets, usually of zinc protected steel that are filled with fractured stone of medium size. These will act as a single unit and are stacked with setbacks to form a revetment or retaining wall. They have the advantage of being both well drained and flexible, and so resistant to flood, water flow from above, frost damage, and soil flow. Their expected useful life is only as long as the wires they are composed of and if used in severe climates must be made of appropriate corrosion-resistant wire.

Bagged concrete

A low grade concrete may be placed in woven plastic sacks similar to that used for sandbags and then emplaced. The sacks are then watered and the emplacement then becomes a series of artificial stones that conform to one another and to adjacent soil and structures. This conformation makes them resistant to displacement. The sack becomes non-functional and eventually disintegrates. This type of masonry is frequently used to protect the entrances and exits of water conduits where a road passes over a stream or dry wash. It is also used to protect stream banks from erosion, especially where a road passes close by.

Masonry Training

Stonemasonry is one of the oldest professions in the history of construction. As such is regarded as a traditional skill, and is one, which is in heavy demand.

Prospective stonemasons will learn the profession through apprenticeships or a traineeship that will last 3 to 4 years. There are City & Guilds stonemasonry courses available that combine college based theory training with practical learning.

If you are looking for a mason to help you build something wonderful, the best place to search is on Repairfinders.com. On this site, you will only find the very best masons in the business, and ones that are in your area. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time, to browse our extensive list of businesses in your area, and when you find the one that is the best for you, contact them, and they will me more than willing to assist you with your needs. On repairfinders.com, you will never be disappointed with the service. Have a good night folks!    -Jack

Hey, folks at home, it is your old pal Jack! Carpentry is a very interesting profession. It requires skill, creativity, honesty, and reliability. It is a great career choice for anyone who is willing to put the work into being good at this. It pays well, and once you take the proper classes, and get your certificates and license, you can make your own hours. So let us talk a little about this today. Carpenters are involved in many different kinds of construction, from the building of highways and bridges to the installation of kitchen cabinets. Carpenters construct, erect, install, and repair structures and fixtures made from wood and other materials.

Each carpentry task is somewhat different, but most involve the same basic steps. Working from blueprints or instructions from supervisors, carpenters first do the layout-measuring, marking, and arranging materials-in accordance with local building codes. They cut and shape wood, plastic, fiberglass, or drywall using hand and power tools, such as chisels, planes, saws, drills, and sanders. They then join the materials with nails, screws, staples, or adhesives. In the last step, carpenters do a final check of the accuracy of their work with levels, rules, plumb bobs, framing squares, and surveying equipment, and make any necessary adjustments.

When working with prefabricated components, such as stairs or wall panels, the carpenter’s task is somewhat simpler because it does not require as much layout work or the cutting and assembly of as many pieces. Prefabricated components are designed for easy and fast installation and generally can be installed in a single operation.

Some carpenters do many different carpentry tasks, while others specialize in one or two. Carpenters who remodel homes and other structures, for example, need a broad range of carpentry skills. As part of a single job, for example, they might frame walls and partitions, put in doors and windows, build stairs, install cabinets and molding, and complete many other tasks. Because these carpenters are so well trained, they often can switch from residential building to commercial construction or remodeling work, depending on which offers the best work opportunities.

Carpenters who work for large construction contractors or specialty contractors may perform only a few regular tasks, such as constructing wooden forms for pouring concrete, or erecting scaffolding. Some carpenters build tunnel bracing, or brattices, in underground passageways and mines to control the circulation of air through the passageways and to worksites. Others build concrete forms for tunnel, bridge, or sewer construction projects.

Carpenters employed outside the construction industry perform a variety of installation and maintenance work. They may replace panes of glass, ceiling tiles, and doors, as well as repair desks, cabinets, and other furniture. Depending on the employer, carpenters install partitions, doors, and windows; change locks; and repair broken furniture. In manufacturing firms, carpenters may assist in moving or installing machinery.

Work environment. As is true of other building trades, carpentry work is sometimes strenuous. Prolonged standing, climbing, bending, and kneeling often are necessary. Carpenters risk injury working with sharp or rough materials, using sharp tools and power equipment, and working in situations where they might slip or fall. Although many carpenters work indoors, those that work outdoors are subject to variable weather conditions.

Most carpenters work a standard 40 hour week. Hours may be longer during busy periods. Carpenters learn their trade through formal and informal training programs. Between 3 and 4 years of both on-the-job training and classroom, instruction usually is needed to become a skilled carpenter. There are a number of ways to train, but a more formal training program often improves job opportunities.

Education and training. Learning to be a carpenter can start in high school. Classes in English, algebra, geometry, physics, mechanical drawing, blueprint reading, and general shop will prepare students for the further training they will need.

After high school, there are a number of different ways to obtain the necessary training. Some people get a job as a carpenter’s helper, assisting workers that are more experienced. At the same time, the helper might attend a trade or vocational school, or community college to receive further trade-related training and eventually become a carpenter.

Some employers offer employees formal apprenticeships. These programs combine on-the-job training with related classroom instruction. Apprentices usually must be at least 18 years old and meet local requirements. Apprenticeship programs usually last 3 to 4 years, but length varies with the apprentice’s skill.

On the job, apprentices learn elementary structural design and become familiar with common carpentry jobs, such as layout, form building, rough framing, and outside and inside finishing. They also learn to use the tools, machines, equipment, and materials of the trade. In the classroom, apprentices learn safety, first aid, blueprint reading, freehand sketching, basic mathematics, and various carpentry techniques. Both in the classroom and on the job, they learn the relationship between carpentry and the other building trades.

The number of apprenticeship programs is limited, however, so only a small proportion of carpenters learn their trade through these programs. Commercial and industrial building contractors with union membership offer most apprenticeships.

Some people who are interested in carpentry careers choose to get their classroom training before seeking a job. There are a number of public and private vocational-technical schools and training academies affiliated with unions and contractors that offer training to become a carpenter. Employers often look favorably upon these students and usually start them at a higher level than those without the training.

Other qualifications. Carpenters need manual dexterity, eye-hand coordination, physical fitness, and a good sense of balance. The ability to solve arithmetic problems quickly and accurately also is required. In addition, military service or a good work history is viewed favorably by employers.

Certification and advancement. Carpenters who complete formal apprenticeship programs receive certification as journeypersons. Some carpenters earn other certifications in scaffold building, high torque bolting, or pump work. These certifications prove that carpenters are able to perform these tasks, which can lead to additional responsibilities.

Carpenters usually have more opportunities than most other construction workers do to become general construction supervisors because carpenters are exposed to the entire construction process. For those who would like to advance, it is increasingly important to be able to communicate in both English and Spanish in order to relay instructions and safety precautions to workers; Spanish-speaking workers make up a large part of the construction workforce in many areas. Carpenters may advance to carpentry supervisor or general construction supervisor positions. Others may become independent contractors. Supervisors and contractors need good communication skills to deal with clients and subcontractors. They should be able to identify and estimate the quantity of materials needed to complete a job and accurately estimate how long a job will take to complete and what it will cost. Average job growth, coupled with replacement needs, create a large number of openings each year. Job opportunities should be best for those with the most training and skills.

Employment change. Employment of carpenters is expected to increase by 10 percent during the 2006-16 decade, about as fast as the average for all occupations. The need for carpenters should grow as construction activity increases in response to demand for new housing and office and retail space, and for modernizing and expanding schools and industrial plants. A strong home remodeling market also will create demand for carpenters. Moreover, construction of roads and bridges as well as restaurants, hotels, and other businesses will increase the demand for carpenters in the coming decade.

Some of the demand for carpenters, however, will be offset by expected productivity gains resulting from the increasing use of prefabricated components and improved fasteners and tools. Prefabricated wall panels, roof assemblies, and stairs, as well as prehung doors and windows can be installed very quickly. Instead of having to be built on the worksite, prefabricated walls, partitions, and stairs can be lifted into place in one operation; beams and, in some cases, entire roof assemblies, are lifted into place using a crane. As prefabricated components become more standardized, builders will use them more often. In addition, improved adhesives are reducing the time needed to join materials, and lightweight, cordless, and pneumatic tools-such as nailers and drills-will all continue to make carpenters more productive. New and improved tools, equipment, techniques, and materials also have made carpenters more versatile, allowing them to perform more carpentry tasks.

Job prospects. Job opportunities should be best for those with the most training and skills. Job growth and replacement needs for those who leave the occupation create a large number of openings each year. Many people with limited skills take jobs as carpenters but eventually leave the occupation because they dislike the work or cannot find steady employment.

Carpenters with all-around skills will have better opportunities for steady work than carpenters who can perform only a few relatively simple, routine tasks. Carpenters can experience periods of unemployment because of the short-term nature of many construction projects, winter slowdowns in construction activity in northern areas, and the cyclical nature of the construction industry.

Employment of carpenters, like that of many other construction workers, is sensitive to the fluctuations of the economy. Workers in these trades may experience periods of unemployment when the overall level of construction falls. On the other hand, shortages of these workers may occur in some areas during peak periods of building activity.

Job opportunities for carpenters also vary by geographic area. Construction activity parallels the movement of people and businesses and reflects differences in local economic conditions. The areas with the largest population increases will also provide the best opportunities for jobs as carpenters and for apprenticeships for people seeking to become carpenters. Therefore, as you can see it takes a lot of skill to become a carpenter. The only place to find the best in the field is at Repairfinders.com. We have the best in the business listed and you could never go wrong. Do not believe me check it out for yourself!

The television set has been and will continue to be the hub of the American home entertainment system for some time. Emerging technologies and expanded programming have driven consumers to purchase television sets with more features and at a higher cost. Knowing how to make a few basic repairs to your own television set can save you the time and money of consulting a professional over a simple problem, and even protect you from the unnecessary purchase of a new set.

However, home repair enthusiasts, experienced or otherwise, should note that television sets contain dangerously high voltages (more than 30,000) and even “quick fixes” should not be handled lightly. When making any repairs, wear safety glasses and work gloves at all times.

One of the most common malfunctions in cable televisions is a blurred (or snowy) picture. Most often, a flaw in the coaxial cable connecting the TV (or VCR) to the cable antenna causes this: the wiring itself may be flawed or the fitting may be loose. To determine if this is the case, turn the television on and wiggle the coaxial cable where it enters the television and where it enters the cable output. If the snow on the screen wavers (gets better or worse), you know there is a problem with the cable. In addition, you can try using the same cable on another television in your house. If it produces a snowy picture there also, you know there is a problem with that cable. Replacing the cable is inexpensive and easy: they can be found in the electronics section of most department stores and hardware stores in a variety of lengths and colors. Be sure to properly dispose of the flawed cable.

Another common malfunction that occurs in television sets is blotches of color, which may be particularly apparent around the edges of the screen. This can happen if the television screen becomes magnetized, which will occur if the television is placed near other electronic equipment, such as stereo speakers. While most televisions contain a circuit that will automatically de-magnetize the screen, this circuit may be damaged or otherwise malfunctioning. To de-magnetize the television yourself, you will need to purchase a strong magnetic coil: these can be found at most hardware stores. Hold the coil in the upper left hand corner, a few inches away from the screen (a rainbow pattern should appear on the screen). Making small circular motions move the coil around the screen, (the rainbow pattern should fluctuate). Increase the size of your circular motions until you have covered the entire screen and then slowly back away from the television set, continuing to make circular motions. When the coil loses contact with the screen, the blotches of color should be gone. In order to successfully de-magnetize the set, you may need to repeat these steps several times.

Replacing a television speaker that emits static noise can be simple, but requires caution because it entails removing the back cover of the television set, exposing the high voltage lead that runs into the top part of the picture tube. Even if the television is unplugged, the tube can shock you: do not touch it in any way. You will also be required to purchase a replacement speaker, which needs to match your current speaker in impedance, which will usually be indicated on the magnet. Begin by unplugging your television and laying it, screen down, on a soft surface. Remove any screws (usually Phillips head) from the back of the television shell. Then, pull back on the cover; if you feel resistance, you may have missed a screw or the cover may have snagged on one of the set’s internal wires. Carefully remove these obstacles and set the cover aside. Identify the malfunctioning speaker (whichever one usually emits static noise), and replace it with the new one. Reattach the speaker in the same manner the old one was attached. Replace the television cover and attach with screws. Important: During this process, it is very important to make sure none of the internal wiring of the television is jarred, twisted, or broken. Any damage to these components can irrevocably impair the function of the set.

If your television set has, a tendency to shut off randomly, it is probably overheating. Permanently remove any objects placed on or too close to the television’s ventilation slats. Use a small vacuum attachment to remove any dust that has built up there. This should successfully prevent your television from randomly shutting off again.

These four techniques will cure 50% of the problems that ail your television set, saving you time and money. If using these techniques does not work for you or if you feel unsure in performing any of them, a professional television repairperson should be contacted. Ask for an estimate and a realistic appraisal of whether the set can be adequately fixed. If not, it may be time to shop around for a newer model.  This is a wonderful way to fix your TV yourself, but if you are like me and don’t have much time on your hands, or you just don’t think you can do it. Find a professional on Repairfinders.com with dozens of listings in your area, finding the right man for the job will be a breeze!

As most of you all already know, I enjoy informing you about many different aspects of the repair/skill/labor industry. I do this because I think it is only fair that everyone should know what is going on out there. Today I want to talk about construction. Many people do not know much about constructors, except that they build things. Well I can tell you they do more than just build things.

In general, there are three types of construction:

1. Building construction
2. Heavy/highway construction
3. Industrial construction

Each type of construction project requires a unique team to plan, design, construct, and maintain the project.

Building construction

Building construction is the process of adding structure to real property. The vast majority of building construction projects are small renovations, such as an addition of a room, or renovation of a bathroom. Often, the owner of the property acts as laborer, paymaster, and design team for the entire project. However, all building construction projects include some elements in common - design, financial, and legal considerations. Many projects of varying sizes reach undesirable results, such as structural collapse, cost overruns, and/or litigation reason; those with experience in the field make detailed plans and maintain careful oversight during the project to ensure a positive outcome.

Building construction is procured privately or publicly utilizing various delivery methodologies, including hard bid, negotiated price, traditional, management contracting, construction management-at-risk, design & build and design-build bridging.

Procurement

Procurement describes the merging of activities undertaken by the client to obtain a building. There are many different methods of construction procurement; however, the three most common types of procurement are:

Traditional (Design-bid-build)

Design and Build

Management Contracting

Traditional

This the most common method of construction procurement and is well established and recognized. In this arrangement, the architect or engineer acts as the project coordinator. His or her role is to design the works, prepare the specifications and produce construction drawings, administer the contract, tender the works, and manage the works from inception to completion. There are direct contractual links between the architect’s client and the main contractor. Any subcontractor will have a direct contractual relationship with the main contractor.

Design and build

This approach has become more common in recent years and includes an entire completed package, including fixtures, fittings and equipment where necessary, to produce a completed fully functional building. In some cases, the Design and Build (D & B) package can also include finding the site, arranging funding and applying for all necessary statutory consents.

The owner produces a list of requirements for a project, giving an overall view of the project’s goals. Several D&B contractors present different ideas about how to accomplish these goals. The owner selects the ideas he likes best and hires the appropriate contractor. Often, it is not just one contractor, but a consortium of several contractors working together. Once a contractor (or consortium/consortia) has been hired, they begin building the first phase of the project. As they build phase 1, they design phase 2. This is in contrast to a design-bid-build contract, where the project is completely designed by the owner, then bid on, then completed.

Kent Hansen, director of engineering for the National Asphalt Pavement Association (NAPA), pointed out that state departments of transportation (DOTs) usually use design build contracts as a way of getting projects done when states do not have the resources. In DOTs, design build contracts are usually used for very large projects.

Management procurement systems

In this arrangement, the client plays an active role in the procurement system by entering into separate contracts with the designer (architect or engineer), the construction manager, and individual trade contractors. The client takes on the contractual role, while the construction or project manager provides the active role of managing the separate trade contracts, and ensuring that they all work smoothly and effectively together.

Management procurement systems are often used to speed up the procurement processes, allow the client greater flexibility in design variation throughout the contract, the ability to appoint individual work contractors, separate contractual responsibility on each individual throughout the contract, and to provide greater client control.

Residential construction

Residential construction practices, technologies, and resources must conform to local building authority regulations and codes of practice. Materials readily available in the area generally dictate the construction materials used (e.g. brick versus stone, versus timber). Cost of construction on a per square meter (or per square foot) basis for houses can vary dramatically based on site conditions, local regulations, economies of scale (custom designed homes are always more expensive to build) and the availability of skilled trades people. As residential (as well as all other types of construction) can generate a lot of waste, careful planning again is needed here.

Heavy/civil construction

Heavy/Civil construction is the process-adding infrastructure to our built environment. Owners of these projects are usually government agencies, either at the national or local level. As in building construction, heavy/civil construction has design, financial, and legal considerations, however these projects are not usually undertaken for-profit, but to service the public interest. However, heavy/civil construction projects are also undertaken by large private corporations, including, among others, golf courses, harbors, power companies, railroads, and mines, who undertake the construction of access roads, dams, railroads, general site grading, and massive earthwork projects. As in building construction, the owner will assemble a team to create an overall plan to ensure that the goals of the project are met.

As you can see, construction work is a very difficult job (but of course, we knew that already). The key point that I am trying to make is that, when someone is working for you, you want for him or her to do the best. Where can you find the best to get the job done? Mmmhmmm, I knew you knew. Repairfinders.com. It is the only place where you can find the very best in the business, in your neighborhood. It gets better, not only will you get an honest, reliable, hardworking individual, but all the businesses in offer free price quotes. Jack is signing off.

If one were to consider in doing-it-yourself auto body repair, you should have some basic interest in working with metal sheets. To do this kind of metal working the basic tools needed to repair dents and small rust holes are:

1. Ball peen Hammer

2. Rubber Mallet

3. Metal dolly

4. Tinsmith’s Spoons

5. Wire brush, steel or bronze

Working on dents does not necessarily mean hammering the body part to its original shape. All that is needed is to work back the dent to about at least 1/8 of an inch to its original shape. Making it shape to almost original will be completed by applying body filler and putty. In the process of gently hammering back the dent, paint will either chip-off or crack. It will be necessary to do the following:

1. Sandpaper away the paint and surrounding areas up to about 2 inches away from the exposed metal. Try to “feather-off” the paint meeting the bare metal to allow proper adherence of the body filler to be applied. Use 120 grit sand paper for this. Wet sanding is advisable then wipe thoroughly dry.

2. Dab the exposed metal with rubbing alcohol or anti-rust compound. Make sure to avoid applying it on the painted area.

3. If rust is evident, use steel brush or bronze brush to remove, if possible, all traces of rust.

4. It is at your option to thinly hand paint with primer the bare metal if it is not larger than the size of your palm.

5. Let the area dry completely before applying body filler. If you are a beginner, most body fillers come in two parts. The hardener, usually in a small plastic tube, is the catalyst to harden the compound. Use it sparingly because using too much will cause the filler to harden real fast in a couple of minutes. Mix the compound well and apply with gentle pressure in one direction to fill the depression on the body. Apply the filler close to the nearest undamaged paint.

6. After the body filler has hardened and dried wet sand gently with 320 grit sand paper to follow the contour of the body. Make sure that the body filler feathers where it meets with the original paint. Feathering means there is no ridge felt when you run your fingertips on where the ends meet. It takes time to be accurately sensitive to feel this difference to the touch. Running over the ends several times with your closed palm and fingertips will give you the “feel”.

7. To complete the filling, apply very thinly, glazing putting over the body filler to cover slight imperfections and pores. Again wet sand with 600 grit sand paper the entire area that you worked on. Overlap slightly sanding on the original paint. Let dry completely.

8. Apply primer surfacer spray (available in aerosol cans) with a color closest to your original paint. After the primer has completely dried, wet sand again with used 600 grit sand paper or new 800 grit sand paper. Wipe and let dry completely.

9. Apply paint color of your car from four to six coats letting each coat dry completely before applying the next coat. If the color code of your paint is available, normally you can get them too in aerosol cans.

10. After the final coat has completely dried, wet sand the finish very lightly with 1000 grit sand paper.

11. To bring out the sheen and luster of the paint job and blend it to the original, rub the entire work with fine rubbing compound with consistent light pressure strokes. Wipe off the repaired area and buff with circular motion.

Tips on Spray Painting:

NOTE: Know if your original paint is enamel, lacquer or acrylic. NEVER apply acrylic over enamel or lacquer finish. Enamel or lacquer over acrylic is just fine.

Mask off areas not to be painted.

Hold the spray about eight to ten inches away from the area.

Spraying motion should be back and forth overlapping each stroke by about 1/3 of its width.

Spray stroke speed should be close to 1 foot per second but not faster.

Release trigger or button away and past the work area if you need to stop or pause.

If a mistake or error was made and defect shows on paint applied, let dry completely then wet sand area with 1000 grit sand paper. When dry, resume painting finish.

To add shine and luster protect color, you can spray a clear coat to the last color coat.

Now all of this is fine and dandy, but if you are like me and now you might screw your vehicle up more, make a smart decision, and go to repairfinders.com. On repairfinders.com you can browse through dozens of custom auto body shops in your area. Get a real professional to do this heavy-duty job for you. In addition, the great thing about repairfinders.com is that you know you are getting only THE BEST in the business, as we only host honest, hardworking, reliable businesses and individuals. If you are ready to see a major improvement in not only your car, but also other everyday things, check it out today. In fact, I am going to hop on right now, and see if I can find someone to do something about these hairline scratches on the back of my car.

Ya’ll never believe what happened to me today. I was in such a rush to get over to a job I was doing today, I left my keys sitting on my table at home. I was so upset with myself for being so careless with my keys, but then I said ya know what Jackie boy? You are human, so I called myself a locksmith to handle this little problem of mine. Now that I am happily back at home, I was thinking I think today would be a great day to talk about Locksmiths and all that. Make yourself cozy, I got a bit to say today.

Locksmithing began as the science and art of making and defeating locks. A lock is a mechanism that secures buildings, rooms, cabinets, objects, or other storage facilities. A key is often used to open a lock. Means of opening a lock often include what you know (a combination), what you have (a key or keycard) or what you are (biometrics). A “smith” of any type is one who shapes metal pieces, often using a forge or mould, into useful objects or to be part of a more complex structure. Locksmithing, as its name implies, is the assembly and designing of locks and their respective keys.

Fitting of keys to replace lost keys to automobiles and homes and the changing of keys for homes and businesses to maintain security are still an important part of locksmithing, locksmiths today are primarily involved in the installation of higher quality locksets and the design, implementation and management of keying and key control systems. Most locksmiths also do electronic lock servicing, such as making keys for transponder-equipped vehicles and the implementation and application of access control systems protecting individuals and assets for many large institutions. In terms of physical security, a locksmith’s work frequently involves making a determination of the level of risk to an individual or institution and then recommending and implementing appropriate combinations of equipment and policies to create “security layers” which exceed the reasonable gain to an intruder or attacker. The more complex security layers are implemented, the more requirements for additional skill, knowledge and tools to defeat them all. However, because each layer comes at an expense to the customer, the application of appropriate levels without exceeding reasonable costs to the customer is often very important and requires a skilled and knowledgeable locksmith to determine.

Locksmiths may be commercial (working out of a storefront), mobile (working out of a vehicle), institutional (employed by an institution) or investigational (forensic locksmiths) or may specialize in one aspect of the skill, such as an automotive lock specialist, a master key system specialist or a safe technician. Many (not all) are also security consultants, but not every security consultant has the skills and knowledge of a locksmith. Locksmiths are frequently certified in specific skill areas or to a level of skill within the trade. This is separate from certificates of completion of training courses. In determining skill levels, certifications from manufacturers or locksmith associations are usually more valid criteria than certificates of completion. Some locksmiths decide to call themselves “Master Locksmiths” whether they are fully trained or not, and some training certificates appear quite authoritative. It may be noted, however, that in some countries a particular level of qualification or membership of an organization is required before one can adopt the term Master Locksmith.

In the general case, a lock will not keep out a determined intruder with unlimited resources, skills, knowledge and time. However, even a minimal lock can delay a typical intruder for a time, and the disturbance generated in circumventing a high-quality lock, for example by breaking windows or doors, can deter many attackers, causing them to direct their attacks against weaker targets. When combined with secure containers, or document destruction systems, or electronic access or alarm systems, locks can provide much higher levels of security. Some locksmiths possess these skills, and others form business relationships with companies or individuals with these specialties. If you ever find yourself in a situation similar to mine, do not hesitate to go to repairfinders.com where you can quickly find dozens of locksmiths in your area. Not only are they hardworking individuals, but they are honest and reliable. What more could you ask for? In addition, never forget that repairfinders.com has all of your repair needs.