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Gas leak… a real problem.

Although natural gas is by nature colorless and odorless, scents in the form of traces of mercaptans are usually added, to assist in identifying leaks. This odor commonly takes the form of rotting eggs. If this scent is detected, it is recommended to evacuate the area immediately, usually to the outside. Do not light fires/cigarettes, and do not operate electrical appliances/light switches/phones, as these may act as points of ignition. Once in a safe area, contact your natural gas provider.

Because of the Pipeline Safety Improvement Act of 2002 passed in the United States within the past few years, Federal Safety Standards require natural gas providing companies to conduct safety inspections for gas leaks in homes and other buildings receiving natural gas. The gas company is required to inspect gas meters and inside gas piping from the point of entry into the building to the outlet side of the gas meter for gas leaks. This requires entry into private homes by the natural gas companies in many cases.

Most state and federal agencies have adopted the Gas Piping and Technology Committee (GPTC) standards for grading natural gas leaks

A Grade 1 leak is a leak that represents an existing or probable hazard to persons or property, and requires immediate repair or continuous action until the conditions are no longer hazardous. Examples of a Grade 1 Leak are:

1. Any leak which, in the judgment of operating personnel at the scene, is regarded as an immediate hazard.

2. Escaping gas that has ignited.

3. Any indication of gas, which has migrated into or under a building, or into a tunnel.

4. Any reading at the outside wall of a building, or where gas would likely migrate to an out-side wall of a building.

5. Any reading of 80% LEL, or greater, in a confined space.

6. Any reading of 80% LEL, or greater in small substructures (other than gas associated sub structures) from which gas would likely migrate to the outside wall of a building.

7. Any leak that can be seen, heard, or felt, and which is in a location that may endanger the general public or property.

A Grade 2 Leak is a leak that is recognized as being non-hazardous at the time of detection, but justifies scheduled repair based on probable future hazard.

Examples of a Grade 2 Leak are:

A. Leaks Requiring Action Ahead of Ground Freezing or Other Adverse Changes in Venting Conditions. Any leak which, under frozen or other adverse soil conditions, would likely migrate to the outside wall of a building.

B. Leaks Requiring Action within Six Months

1. Any reading of 40% LEL, or greater, under a sidewalk in a wall-to-wall paved area that does not qualify as a Grade 1 leak.

2. Any reading of 100% LEL, or greater, under a street in a wall-to-wall paved area that has significant gas migration and does not qualify as a Grade 1 leak.

3. Any reading less than 80% LEL in small substructures (other than gas-associated substructures) from which gas would likely migrate creating a probable future hazard.

4. Any reading between 20% LEL and 80% LEL in a con-fined space.

5. Any reading on a pipeline operating at 30 percent SMYS, or greater, in a class 3 or 4 location, which does not qualify as a Grade 1 leak.

6. Any reading of 80% LEL, or greater, in gas associated sub-structures.

7. Any leak which, in the judgment of operating personnel at the scene, is of sufficient magnitude to justify scheduled repair.

A Grade 3 Leak is a leak that is non-hazardous at the time of detection and can be reasonably expected to remain non-hazardous.

Examples of a Grade 3 Leak are:

1. Any reading of less than 80% LEL in small gas associated substructures.

2. Any reading under a street in areas without wall-to-wall paving where it is unlikely the gas could migrate to the out-side wall of a building.

3. Any reading of less than 20% LEL in a confined space.

If you would like someone to inspect a possible gas leak in your home or office, the best place to go, is Repairfinders.com. All the businesses listed are hardworking, honest individuals, how are more than willing to assist you with any problem you may have. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time to find the company that is the best for you.

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The magic of Television…

The television set has been and will continue to be the hub of the American home entertainment system for some time. Emerging technologies and expanded programming have driven consumers to purchase television sets with more features and at a higher cost. Knowing how to make a few basic repairs to your own television set can save you the time and money of consulting a professional over a simple problem, and even protect you from the unnecessary purchase of a new set.

However, home repair enthusiasts, experienced or otherwise, should note that television sets contain dangerously high voltages (more than 30,000) and even “quick fixes” should not be handled lightly. When making any repairs, wear safety glasses and work gloves at all times.

One of the most common malfunctions in cable televisions is a blurred (or snowy) picture. Most often, a flaw in the coaxial cable connecting the TV (or VCR) to the cable antenna causes this: the wiring itself may be flawed or the fitting may be loose. To determine if this is the case, turn the television on and wiggle the coaxial cable where it enters the television and where it enters the cable output. If the snow on the screen wavers (gets better or worse), you know there is a problem with the cable. In addition, you can try using the same cable on another television in your house. If it produces a snowy picture there also, you know there is a problem with that cable. Replacing the cable is inexpensive and easy: they can be found in the electronics section of most department stores and hardware stores in a variety of lengths and colors. Be sure to properly dispose of the flawed cable.

Another common malfunction that occurs in television sets is blotches of color, which may be particularly apparent around the edges of the screen. This can happen if the television screen becomes magnetized, which will occur if the television is placed near other electronic equipment, such as stereo speakers. While most televisions contain a circuit that will automatically de-magnetize the screen, this circuit may be damaged or otherwise malfunctioning. To de-magnetize the television yourself, you will need to purchase a strong magnetic coil: these can be found at most hardware stores. Hold the coil in the upper left hand corner, a few inches away from the screen (a rainbow pattern should appear on the screen). Making small circular motions move the coil around the screen, (the rainbow pattern should fluctuate). Increase the size of your circular motions until you have covered the entire screen and then slowly back away from the television set, continuing to make circular motions. When the coil loses contact with the screen, the blotches of color should be gone. In order to successfully de-magnetize the set, you may need to repeat these steps several times.

 

 

Replacing a television speaker that emits static noise can be simple, but requires caution because it entails removing the back cover of the television set, exposing the high voltage lead that runs into the top part of the picture tube. Even if the television is unplugged, the tube can shock you: do not touch it in any way. You will also be required to purchase a replacement speaker, which needs to match your current speaker in impedance, which will usually be indicated on the magnet. Begin by unplugging your television and laying it, screen down, on a soft surface. Remove any screws (usually Phillips head) from the back of the television shell. Then, pull back on the cover; if you feel resistance, you may have missed a screw or the cover may have snagged on one of the set’s internal wires. Carefully remove these obstacles and set the cover aside. Identify the malfunctioning speaker (whichever one usually emits static noise), and replace it with the new one. Reattach the speaker in the same manner the old one was attached. Replace the television cover and attach with screws. Important: During this process, it is very important to make sure none of the internal wiring of the television is jarred, twisted, or broken. Any damage to these components can irrevocably impair the function of the set.

If your television set has, a tendency to shut off randomly, it is probably overheating. Permanently remove any objects placed on or too close to the television’s ventilation slats. Use a small vacuum attachment to remove any dust that has built up there. This should successfully prevent your television from randomly shutting off again.

 

 

These four techniques will cure 50% of the problems that ail your television set, saving you time and money. If using these techniques does not work for you or if you feel unsure in performing any of them, a professional television repairperson should be contacted. Ask for an estimate and a realistic appraisal of whether the set can be adequately fixed. If not, it may be time to shop around for a newer model.  This is a wonderful way to fix your TV yourself, but if you are like me and don’t have much time on your hands, or you just don’t think you can do it. Find a professional on Repairfinders.com with dozens of listings in your area, finding the right man for the job will be a breeze!

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