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Keep your pool clean!

repairfinder — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:54:27 +0200

Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions are right, an algae bloom can occur seemingly overnight. These conditions include out of balance water, warm temperatures, sunlight and presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide. Of course, a lack of proper circulation, filtration and sanitation may be the primary cause of the algae. The best process is one of elimination.

Algae is a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct.+

What problems can Algae cause?

The first noticeable problem is that no one seems to want to go swimming. The second problem is that it requires work and effort and money to rid the water completely of algae. It is therefore best to use preventative chemicals and techniques, described later. Algae can cloud and color the water, making rescue attempts difficult and reducing depth perception of a diver. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with algae may also be harbor to pathogens like E-coli bacteria.

In addition to clogging up sanitation pathways in the water, algae also clogs up the pores in a filter, decreasing filter effectiveness and requiring more backwashing or medium replacement. Algae creates a chlorine demand in the water for itself, actually consuming chlorine that should be working on other contaminants. Algae are kind of like weeds in your garden. Unsightly, unwanted space takers that create more work for the gardener, and sap up nutrients and resources from the flora we wish to grow.

What types of Algae are there?

There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae! In the pool business we avoid all of the complication by referring to algae by the color they exhibit.

Green Algae: An extremely common variety, green algae will usually rear its ugly head immediately following a hazy condition in the water from a lack of proper filtration and/or sanitation. It is frequently found free floating in the water, although it also will cling to the walls. It reduces water clarity and is thereby distinguished from severe copper precipitation, which will impart a clear, green color to the water. Varieties of green algae also appear as “spots” on surfaces, particularly rough areas, or places where circulation is low. They also show up as “sheets”, where large wall sections, or even the entire pool, is coated in green slime…UGH!

Yellow Algae: A wall clinging variety, also called mustard algae, is usually found on the shady side of the pool. It is sheet forming, and can be difficult to eradicate completely. Once begun, a pool owner could spend the entire season fighting yellow algae; re-infection is common. This variety is resistant to normal chlorine levels and must be dealt with firmly. Hit it hard!

Black Algae: Perhaps the most aggravating strain of algae, it has been compared to herpes; “once you’ve got it, it’s there for life.” This is not entirely accurate, but the difficulty in eradication is due to the strong roots and protective layers over top of the black algae plant. Black algae will appear as dark black or blue/green spots, usually the size of a pencil eraser tip. Their roots extend into the plaster or tile grout, and unless the roots are destroyed completely, a new head will grow back in the same place. The heads also contain protective layers to keep cell destroying chemicals from entering the organism. Like yellow algae, black strains can bloom even in the presence of normal sanitizing levels and proper filtration. I was once told that this form of algae commonly enters a pool inside the swimsuit of a person who’s recently been to the ocean.

Pink Algae: Not really an algae at all, but a form of bacteria. Appears as spots or streaks in corners and crevices. It is slow to spread and rare that it will bloom over an entire pool.

How is algae prevented?

Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. high pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth. Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony.

The use of specialty chemicals or algaecides is recommended to provide a back up to normal sanitation and filtration processes and is completely necessary for many pools. These chemicals are described below:

Potassium Tetraborate: This chemical, when added to the pool water in proper dosage, prevents algae from converting carbon dioxide into the fuel it needs for growth. Manufactured under the trade name Proteam Supreme. An extraordinary product.

Chitin: Not an algaecide (meaning to kill algae) per se, but its properties might be called algaestatic (that is, to prevent algae growth). Chitin has the ability to coagulate and remove a wide variety of suspended materials and impurities from the water. This allows the sanitizer to more effectively kill contaminants unobstructed. It also improves the effectiveness of the filtration equipment. Sold under the trade name Sea-Klear, chitin can be a valuable weapon in your algae arsenal.

Algaecides and Algaestats:

Quaternary Ammonium Compounds:

A low grade type of algaecide, Quats, as they are called, will usually have “10″ somewhere on the bottle, representing 10% active ingredient. Although available at a lower cost, quats tend to produce a small amount of surface foaming. They are most effective as an algaestat, that is, as a prevention, not a cure.

Polymers:

Polymers are long, complicated chemical chains that behave in water both as an algaestat and an algaecide. They are available in percentage strength of 30 - 60%, are non foaming, and work well as general, all around algae treatments. Poly-Quats are a blended compound of polymer and quats.

Copper Based:

Copper is a proven algaecide and algaestat. Available in varying non foaming strength of 3 - 10%. It works very well on all types of algae, but it has the drawback of staining white plaster surfaces a light blue/green color if it precipitates out of solution. Most copper based algaecides are chelated, which means that agents have been added to prevent this, such as Lo-Chlor Algaecide.

Silver Based:

Silver has been shown to be an effective bacteriostat, which means that it works to prevent bacteria from reproducing. Non foaming and effective with pink algae. In high doses, reactions with sunlight can cause colloidal silver to deposit as black stains on white plaster. When using copper or silver algaecides, the use of a sequestering agent is recommended.

Chlorine Enhancers:

These are not algaecides, but work to provide a synergistic boost to hypochlorites when added separately, but at the same time. Sold under trade names like Mustard Buster, Yellow-Out or Yellow Treat, it is most effective on, you guessed it, yellow algae. Since it is not an algaecide, the makers are not required to tell what it is made of, but we do know that it works quite well, in conjunction with a little brushing and vacuuming on your part.

Too late to prevent it…How do I kill algae?

First off, find a pool specialist on Repairfinders.com who will balance your water, paying particular attention to pH. Secondly, they will check your filter system and clean if necessary. Adjust valving for optimum circulation and allow it to run 24 hours a day until the pool clears. Turn on automatic cleaners to help stir things up. Backwash as necessary.

For suspended green algae, shock the pool…hard. Put in as much hypochlorite as it takes to turn the pool a cloudy, bluish/gray color. Brush the walls and floors towards the main drain. Backwash the filter when the pressure gauge indicates the need (8 - 10 lbs. above clean reading, after backwashing.) Using a flocculent may be a good choice if the pool is extremely “swampy”. If you cannot see the bottom of the pool, and it is filled with leaves and debris, it may be wise to drain the pool, acid wash and refill it.

After the chlorine level has come down below 5 ppm, add an algaecide and brush the pool again. When it all settles, vacuum the pool (to waste, if possible). Check and re-balance the pool water if necessary.

For algae which is not suspended, but only clinging to the walls, follow the same advice above, first shock with brushing, then add an algaecide, brush again, vacuum to waste (preferred) or vacuum and then backwash the filter. Use of a steel bristled brush is recommended for algae on plaster pools (use nylon brush on vinyl). Filter, Filter, Filter!

For black algae, the brushing part is very important. You must tear through the protective layers so the chemicals can destroy the plant from the inside out. Pumice stones work well to knock off the heads of black algae. (Don’t forget to vacuum them up later, and backwash them out of the filter ASAP). Also effective on the black algae nodules is sprinkling granular trichlor over the spots (of course if they’re on the wall this is next to impossible). Rubbing the spots on the walls with a trichlor tablet or stick can also be effective to knock off the heads and get trichlor directly to the roots. Follow up with a dose of copper algaecide, or high strength polymers. Simazine, an herbicide, was a very effective black algae treatment, but is no longer available in America.

If algae has been an ongoing problem in your pool for several years, you may do well to drain the pool. Many years of algae builds up dead algae cells and lots of other solids in the water that contribute to its rejuvenation. Acid washing and/or pressure washing is preferable once drained, to kill the roots of the algae embedded in the plaster. NEXT: Change the sand if you have a sand filter or change the cartridge if it is a cartridge type. Sand should be changed every 5 - 7 yrs (or every 2 if you use Baquacil), and cartridge filters should have new elements every 1 - 2 years. If you have a D.E. filter (good for you!), you should remove the elements, spray clean, soak in a 10 : 1 water/ bleach solution, rinse and replace. A well functioning filter will prevent algae.

Another item to look at is the method of sanitation and the type of filtering you have. Far too many pools out there were sold with marginal filter systems, meant to run 24 hrs per day. Well, these systems get old and tired, or the new owners only run it 12 hrs per day (or less). For good algae prevention, we need a combination of good filtration, sanitation and circulation. It may be time to consider changing the old pump and filter. It’s cheaper and easier to pay a little up front for more chemicals, electricity or better equipment than all the money and aggravation spent on fighting algae blooms.

A couple of things to think about before...

repairfinder — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 21:01:46 +0200

If you are thinking about remodeling your home or office, there are many things to consider. One of the biggest is “should I do it myself?” There is no easy answer to this question, but you can help yourself decide by considering the following questions:

1. Do I have the time?

Remodeling can take a considerable amount of time, even for the experts. Most of the time remodeling is actually more difficult than new construction. One of the reasons for this is that you have to prepare the existing components of your structure to blend in with the new.

2. Do I have the know-how?

Your remodeling project will likely require some specific skills to ensure a successful result. These can include carpentry, painting, drywall finishing, flooring, plumbing, electrical, concrete work, excavation, etc. You’ll want to carefully assess your abilities in the skills you’ll need for your own project.

3. Do I have the tools and equipment needed?

Since so many skills are involved, most property owners do not have the needed tools and equipment. If you can get the tools by purchasing, renting or borrowing them, do you have the skills to use them effectively and safely?

4. Do I have enough help?

Remodeling can be very labor intensive; two hands are often not enough. You can always use someone to help carry materials or equipment, or you might need skilled help in order to complete the job in a reasonable time. If you need help, will you have access to the kind of help you need, when you need it?

5. Am I physically able to do the work?

Remodeling is usually strenuous work, involving climbing ladders, working on scaffolds or heavy lifting. You’ll need to decide if you’re physically able to do that kind of work for the extended period your project may take.

6. Do I have a clear idea of what I am trying to accomplish?

Can you draw the necessary building plans, or will you need to get someone else to do this for you? You may need to hire an architect if your remodel is very complex. An architect can help with traffic flow and other factors that may arise when you change rooms, or move walls and doorways.

7. What is my budget?

You should make a careful estimate of all the costs of your project before any work is started. Calculate the costs of all materials, equipment rental, tools, labor, subcontractors etc. Don’t forget to add a budget for any unknowns or surprises that may be revealed later!

8. What kind of subcontractors am I going to need?

You will probably need some skilled subcontractors to perform specialized work that you can’t do. Do you have the time to deal with those subcontractors personally, and do you have the knowledge needed to negotiate with them? If you are unprepared in this area, it can cost you a lot later on.

You may decide when you’ve finished answering these tough questions that you’ll need some help. If you decide to hire a professional remodeling contractor, you should expect someone with years of experience in construction who can provide all the services listed above, including management of all the necessary subcontractors. Your contractor should take care of everything, and manage your project until it is completed in a timely and efficient manner.

Here’s how to find a good remodeling contractor:

1. Go to Repairfinders.com

On Repairfinders.com you will find only the best qualified professionals in your area. All it takes is a couple minutes of your time to find the right one that is best for you.

2. Check out references

Get previous customers’ opinion of the contractor and the work that was done. Talk to local vendors and suppliers to see if that contractor pays his or her bills.

3. Is the contractor local?

Does he or she have a local office, address or phone number? It’s easier to keep track of a local contractor; avoid hiring from out of town or state unless you thoroughly check them out.

4. Look at the contractor’s work

Make sure you look at previous projects or photos of completed work.

If you’re looking for someone who has roots locally and is likely to be around to stand behind the work done on your project, you might also find out if the contractor you’re considering is involved in the community or in non-profit organizations, or provides support for community projects.

The magic of Television…

repairfinder — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 23:04:45 +0200

The television set has been and will continue to be the hub of the American home entertainment system for some time. Emerging technologies and expanded programming have driven consumers to purchase television sets with more features and at a higher cost. Knowing how to make a few basic repairs to your own television set can save you the time and money of consulting a professional over a simple problem, and even protect you from the unnecessary purchase of a new set.

However, home repair enthusiasts, experienced or otherwise, should note that television sets contain dangerously high voltages (more than 30,000) and even “quick fixes” should not be handled lightly. When making any repairs, wear safety glasses and work gloves at all times.

One of the most common malfunctions in cable televisions is a blurred (or snowy) picture. Most often, a flaw in the coaxial cable connecting the TV (or VCR) to the cable antenna causes this: the wiring itself may be flawed or the fitting may be loose. To determine if this is the case, turn the television on and wiggle the coaxial cable where it enters the television and where it enters the cable output. If the snow on the screen wavers (gets better or worse), you know there is a problem with the cable. In addition, you can try using the same cable on another television in your house. If it produces a snowy picture there also, you know there is a problem with that cable. Replacing the cable is inexpensive and easy: they can be found in the electronics section of most department stores and hardware stores in a variety of lengths and colors. Be sure to properly dispose of the flawed cable.

Another common malfunction that occurs in television sets is blotches of color, which may be particularly apparent around the edges of the screen. This can happen if the television screen becomes magnetized, which will occur if the television is placed near other electronic equipment, such as stereo speakers. While most televisions contain a circuit that will automatically de-magnetize the screen, this circuit may be damaged or otherwise malfunctioning. To de-magnetize the television yourself, you will need to purchase a strong magnetic coil: these can be found at most hardware stores. Hold the coil in the upper left hand corner, a few inches away from the screen (a rainbow pattern should appear on the screen). Making small circular motions move the coil around the screen, (the rainbow pattern should fluctuate). Increase the size of your circular motions until you have covered the entire screen and then slowly back away from the television set, continuing to make circular motions. When the coil loses contact with the screen, the blotches of color should be gone. In order to successfully de-magnetize the set, you may need to repeat these steps several times.

Replacing a television speaker that emits static noise can be simple, but requires caution because it entails removing the back cover of the television set, exposing the high voltage lead that runs into the top part of the picture tube. Even if the television is unplugged, the tube can shock you: do not touch it in any way. You will also be required to purchase a replacement speaker, which needs to match your current speaker in impedance, which will usually be indicated on the magnet. Begin by unplugging your television and laying it, screen down, on a soft surface. Remove any screws (usually Phillips head) from the back of the television shell. Then, pull back on the cover; if you feel resistance, you may have missed a screw or the cover may have snagged on one of the set’s internal wires. Carefully remove these obstacles and set the cover aside. Identify the malfunctioning speaker (whichever one usually emits static noise), and replace it with the new one. Reattach the speaker in the same manner the old one was attached. Replace the television cover and attach with screws. Important: During this process, it is very important to make sure none of the internal wiring of the television is jarred, twisted, or broken. Any damage to these components can irrevocably impair the function of the set.

If your television set has, a tendency to shut off randomly, it is probably overheating. Permanently remove any objects placed on or too close to the television’s ventilation slats. Use a small vacuum attachment to remove any dust that has built up there. This should successfully prevent your television from randomly shutting off again.

These four techniques will cure 50% of the problems that ail your television set, saving you time and money. If using these techniques does not work for you or if you feel unsure in performing any of them, a professional television repairperson should be contacted. Ask for an estimate and a realistic appraisal of whether the set can be adequately fixed. If not, it may be time to shop around for a newer model. This is a wonderful way to fix your TV yourself, but if you are like me and don’t have much time on your hands, or you just don’t think you can do it. Find a professional on Repairfinders.com with dozens of listings in your area, finding the right man for the job will be a breeze!

All you will ever need to know about App...

repairfinder — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:29:57 +0200

Home appliance repairers, also known as in-home service professionals, install and repair home appliances. Some repairers work on small appliances such as microwave ovens and vacuum cleaners. Others specialize in major appliances such as refrigerators, dishwashers, washers and dryers, and window air conditioning units. (Workers whose primary responsibility is the installation and repair of heating and central air conditioning units are covered in a separate Handbook statement on heating, air conditioning and refrigeration mechanics and installers-although some worker responsibilities may overlap.) Home appliance repairers install household durable goods such as refrigerators, washing machines, and cooking products. They may have to install pipes in a customer’s home to connect the appliances to a gas or water line. In these cases, once the lines are in place, they turn on the gas or water and check for leaks. Home appliance repairers also answer customers’ questions about the care and use of appliances.

When problems with home appliances occur, home appliance repairers visually inspect the appliance and check for unusual noises, excessive vibration, leakage of fluid, or loose parts to determine the cause of the failure. Repairers disassemble the appliance to examine its internal parts for signs of wear or corrosion. They follow service manuals and use testing devices such as ammeters, voltmeters, and wattmeter’s to check electrical systems for shorts and faulty connections.

After identifying problems, home appliance repairers replace or repair defective belts, motors, heating elements, switches, gears, or other items. They tighten, align, clean, and lubricate parts as necessary. Repairers use common hand tools, including screwdrivers, wrenches, files, and pliers, as well as soldering guns and tools designed for specific appliances. When repairing appliances with electronic parts, they may replace circuit boards or other electronic components.

When repairing refrigerators and window air-conditioners, repairers must take care to conserve, recover, and recycle chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) and hydro chlorofluorocarbon (HCFC) refrigerants used in the cooling systems, as is required by law. Federal regulations also require that home appliance repairers document the capture and disposal of refrigerants.

Repairers write up estimates of the cost of repairs for customers, keep records of parts used and hours worked, prepare bills, and collect payments. If an appliance is still under warranty, self-employed repairers will talk with the original appliance manufacturer to recoup monetary claims for work performed.

Work environment. Home appliance repairers who handle portable appliances usually work in quiet and adequately lighted and ventilated repair shops. Those who repair major appliances may spend several hours a day driving to and from appointments and emergency calls. Repairers sometimes work in cramped and uncomfortable positions when they are replacing parts in hard-to-reach areas of appliances. Repairer jobs generally are not hazardous, but workers must exercise care and follow safety precautions to avoid electrical shocks and gas leaks, and prevent injuries when lifting and moving large appliances.

Home appliance repairers usually work with little or no direct supervision. Many home appliance repairers work a standard 40-hour week, but may work overtime and weekend hours in the summer months, when they are in high demand to fix refrigerators and window mounted air-conditioners. Some repairers work early morning, evening, and weekend shifts and may remain on call in case of an emergency. Therefore, if you need someone to fix your toaster, dryer, Refrigerator, or any appliance you have, repairfinders.com can help you find someone today! Jack is over and out.

Information is from http://www.bls.gov/oco/ocos193.htm

Computer Blues...

repairfinder — Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:26:08 +0200

Hello there! How are yall doing on this warm day? My computer has been acting real finicky as of late, so I hope that I can get this out to yall on time. I know how much yall enjoy reading what I think. Well since my computer is acting funny I think it would make a fine discussion. Computer repair is a very important thing… It is very important indeed…

A computer repair technician is a person who repairs and maintains computers and servers. The technician’s responsibilities may extend to include building or configuring new hardware, installing and updating software packages, and creating and maintaining computer networks. Computer repair technicians work in a variety of settings, encompassing both the public and private sectors. Because of the relative newness of the profession, institutions offer certificate and degree programs designed to prepare new technicians, but computer repairs are frequently performed by experienced and certified technicians who have little formal training in the field.

A repair technician might work in a corporate information technology department, a central service center, or a retail computer sales environment. A public sector technician might work in the military, national security or law enforcement communities, health or public safety field, or an educational institution. Despite the vast variety of work environments, all computer technicians perform similar physical and investigative processes, including technical support. Experienced technicians might specialize in fields such as data recovery, system administration, or information systems. Some technicians are self-employed or own a firm that provides services in a regional area. Some are subcontracted as freelancers or consultants. This type of technician ranges from hobbyists and enthusiasts that volunteer or make a little side money, to those who work professionally in the field.

The repair of problems can range from a minor setting that is incorrect, to spyware, viruses, and as far as replacing hardware or an entire operating system. Some technicians provide on-site services usually at an hourly rate. Others can provide services off-site, where the client can drop off at the repair shop. Some have pickup and drop off services for convenience. Some may also take back old equipment for recycling. While computer hardware configuration varies widely, a technician works with two basic types of hardware; units limited to a location (desktops, mainframes and supercomputers) and more portable (laptop and handheld) devices. Technicians also work with and occasionally repair a range of peripherals, including input devices like keyboards, mice, and scanners, output devices like displays, printers, and speakers, and data storage devices ranging from external hard drives to specialized high-storage desktop computers called servers. Technicians involved in system administration might also work with networking hardware, including routers, switches, fiber optics, and wireless networks.

When possible, repair technicians protect the computer user’s data and settings, so that after repair, the user will not have lost any data and the technician can fully use the device with little interruption, and then diagnose the problem. So if you are having issues with your computer like I am having with mine, you should go to repairfinders.com and find a repair technician to solve the problem. Addressing the issue, the technician could take action as minor as adjusting one or several settings or preferences, but could also apply more involved techniques like installing, uninstalling, or reinstalling various software packages. A reliable, but somewhat more complicated, procedure for addressing software issues is known as a restore, in which the computer’s original installation image (including operating system and original applications) is reapplied to a formatted hard drive. Well folks, Im about to hope on to repairfinders.com to fix the computer of mine. If yours is giving you problems, I suggest you do the same!