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Make sure your well water is safe.

repairfinder — Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:35:41 +0200

Forty-seven percent of the United States depends on ground water for
their basic drinking water supply. Having a basic understanding about
ground water quality will help ensure that your well is supplying
potable water for your household.

Along with human activities, water quality is affected by a
combination of natural processes. Most relate to chemical compositions
underground. However, other factors such as biological, physical, and
radiological conditions can affect water quality as well.

The National Ground Water Association recommends that water well
owners have their wells checked and tested by a certified and/or
licensed contractor every year to ensure water safety. You can find
these licensed contractors on Repairfinders.com

Hard Water

The most common problem associated with ground water may be
hardness, generally associated with an abundance of calcium and/or
magnesium dissolved in the water. Hard water has not been shown to
cause health problems, but can be a nuisance as it may cause soap curds
and deposits to form on pipes and other plumbing fixtures. Over time,
this can reduce the diameter of the pipes.

Calcium and magnesium are found in ground water that has been
exposed to certain rocks and minerals, especially limestone and gypsum.
When these materials are dissolved, they release calcium and magnesium.
Hard water is considered bad for your plumbing, but people with heart
or circulatory problems may want to consult their physician about
drinking softened water, because the softening process removes calcium
and magnesium, and adds sodium to the water.

Iron and Manganese

A “rusty” or metallic taste in water is a result of iron, and
sometimes manganese, in ground water. They not only create a bad taste,
but they also can stain pipes and clothing.

Iron and manganese are naturally occurring, and most ground water
has some amount of dissolved iron and manganese in it. It comes from
contact with minerals that contain iron, such as pyrite.

There are several treatment methods. Installing a water softener may
help if iron and manganese are present in low quantities and the
softener is designed for their removal. Aeration (the addition of
oxygen to the water), chlorination, and feeding ozone or hydrogen
peroxide can aid in the precipitation of iron, which it is removed from
the water by filtration. Potassium permanganate feed with manganese
greensand filters, and some recently designed synthetic media, will
remove iron and manganese, as well.

Nitrogen

Most nitrogen in ground water comes from the atmosphere. Some plants
can “attach” nitrogen from the atmosphere onto their roots. The
nitrogen not used by the plants is then released into the soil.

Nitrogen compounds also can work their way into ground water through
fertilizers, manure, and urine from farm animals, sewage, and landfills.

The most common forms in ground water are ammonia, nitrate, and
nitrite. Nitrates can be especially toxic to children under six months
of age. Exposure to ammonia also presents a health risk. It is toxic to
aquatic life such as fish, and it interferes with water treatment.

There are a variety of treatment methods to correct this problem,
including reverse osmosis systems with water softeners to remove
nitrates and nitrites, and oxidation to remove small amounts of
ammonia. However, treatment should be a last resort. Removing the
source of contamination is the first priority. You should also be sure
to protect the area around the wellhead from contamination by animals
or fertilizers.

Silica

Silica comes from the weathering of silicate minerals in the ground.
It causes no harmful effects to humans, but large amounts can cause
scaling in pipes that impacts water flow, and it can interfere with
iron and manganese removal.

Sulfur

Sulfur can occur in ground water in two forms: sulfides and
sulfates. Sulfides are naturally occurring in much of the United States
in limestone containing organic materials; ground water affected by
oil, gas, and coal deposits; in marshes and manure pits; and in the
byproduct of well-established iron bio films. Sulfates often come from
the dissolving of minerals, such as gypsum and anhydrite.

A “rotten egg” smell coming from your water indicates the presence
of hydrogen sulfide gas. Along with creating an unpleasant odor and
taste, sulfides cause corrosion to plumbing and darken water.

There are several methods for treating sulfur. Aeration, ozone,
hydrogen peroxide, and chlorine (best followed by filtration) are
effective against dissolved hydrogen sulfide or gas. A reverse osmosis
system, nanofiltration system, or a negative ion-exchanger also can be
effective in reducing sulfates. Filtration is necessary in combating
sulfur formation as a mineral or in bio films.

Total Dissolved Solids

TDS, as it is commonly known, is the concentration of all dissolved
minerals in water. It is the direct measurement of the interaction
between minerals and ground water.

TDS levels above 1000 mg/L will usually yield poor tasting water.
Levels above 2000 mg/L are considered undrinkable due to taste, and
levels more than 10,000 mg/L are defined as undrinkable.

Water softeners with a reverse osmosis system are effective in lowering the TDS to satisfactory levels.

Additional Treatment Information

For more information on water treatment methods, you should contact a well specialist. There are many listed on Repairfinders.com .
All it takes is a moment of your time, and remember that when it comes
to something as life sustaining as water, you do not want to hold for
tomorrow, what you should do today.

All about water heaters.

repairfinder — Wed, 22 Oct 2008 22:21:19 +0200

If you own a house, you own a water heater. You probably don’t spend much time thinking about the water heater until, one morning, you go to take a shower and there’s no hot water. Then you probably think about it a lot.

And if you’re the curious sort, the following water-heater question may have crossed your mind: “How can the water stay hot if cold water comes in as soon as you start using the hot water?”

A gas water heater is nearly identical to an electric water heater, except that it does not contain the two heating elements, but instead has a gas burner at the bottom, with the chimney running up through the middle of the tank.

A water heater consists of the following parts.

1. A heavy inner steel tank that holds the hot water. Typically, this tank holds 40 to 60 gallons. It has to be able to hold the pressure of a residential water system, which typically runs at 50 to 100 pounds per square inch (psi). The tank is tested to handle 300 psi. The steel tank normally has a bonded glass liner to keep rust out of the water.

2. Insulation surrounding the tank

3. A dip tube to let cold water into the tank

4. A pipe to let hot water out of the tank

5. A thermostat to control the temperature of the water inside the tank (Many electric water heaters have a separate thermostat on each element.)

6. Heating elements to heat the water (These are the thick electric elements similar to those you see inside an electric oven.)

7. A drain valve that allows you to drain the tank to replace the elements or move the tank

8. A pressure relief valve (This is an important safety feature that keeps the tank from exploding.)

9. A sacrificial anode rod to help keep the steel tank from corroding.

Heating the Water

The thermostat controls the temperature of the water inside the tank. Normally you can set the temperature between 120 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit (49 to 82 degrees Celsius). It is generally recommended that you keep the temperature between 120 to 140 degrees F (49 to 60 C) — especially if there are children living in the house — to prevent scalding. It also saves energy.

Normally, the thermostat is underneath a cover plate and it has a knob or a screw that you can use to set the temperature.

As cold water comes in, it remains at the bottom of the tank because it is denser than hot water. If you use the hot water faster than the heating elements can heat the incoming cold water, and if you consume all of the hot water that the tank holds, you run out of hot water in the middle of your shower. If this seems to happen too often, it could mean that the bottom heating element in an electric water heater has burned out or that your water heater is too small for your house. Or it could mean that you are taking really, really long showers.

If you have any problems at all with your water heater, the best thing to do is to find a qualified professional from Repairfinders.com to look at it. They can quickly find out what the problem is and fix it for you in a timely and cost efficient manner.

Keep your pool clean!

repairfinder — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:54:27 +0200

Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions are right, an algae bloom can occur seemingly overnight. These conditions include out of balance water, warm temperatures, sunlight and presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide. Of course, a lack of proper circulation, filtration and sanitation may be the primary cause of the algae. The best process is one of elimination.

Algae is a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct.+

What problems can Algae cause?

The first noticeable problem is that no one seems to want to go swimming. The second problem is that it requires work and effort and money to rid the water completely of algae. It is therefore best to use preventative chemicals and techniques, described later. Algae can cloud and color the water, making rescue attempts difficult and reducing depth perception of a diver. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with algae may also be harbor to pathogens like E-coli bacteria.

In addition to clogging up sanitation pathways in the water, algae also clogs up the pores in a filter, decreasing filter effectiveness and requiring more backwashing or medium replacement. Algae creates a chlorine demand in the water for itself, actually consuming chlorine that should be working on other contaminants. Algae are kind of like weeds in your garden. Unsightly, unwanted space takers that create more work for the gardener, and sap up nutrients and resources from the flora we wish to grow.

What types of Algae are there?

There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae! In the pool business we avoid all of the complication by referring to algae by the color they exhibit.

Green Algae: An extremely common variety, green algae will usually rear its ugly head immediately following a hazy condition in the water from a lack of proper filtration and/or sanitation. It is frequently found free floating in the water, although it also will cling to the walls. It reduces water clarity and is thereby distinguished from severe copper precipitation, which will impart a clear, green color to the water. Varieties of green algae also appear as “spots” on surfaces, particularly rough areas, or places where circulation is low. They also show up as “sheets”, where large wall sections, or even the entire pool, is coated in green slime…UGH!

Yellow Algae: A wall clinging variety, also called mustard algae, is usually found on the shady side of the pool. It is sheet forming, and can be difficult to eradicate completely. Once begun, a pool owner could spend the entire season fighting yellow algae; re-infection is common. This variety is resistant to normal chlorine levels and must be dealt with firmly. Hit it hard!

Black Algae: Perhaps the most aggravating strain of algae, it has been compared to herpes; “once you’ve got it, it’s there for life.” This is not entirely accurate, but the difficulty in eradication is due to the strong roots and protective layers over top of the black algae plant. Black algae will appear as dark black or blue/green spots, usually the size of a pencil eraser tip. Their roots extend into the plaster or tile grout, and unless the roots are destroyed completely, a new head will grow back in the same place. The heads also contain protective layers to keep cell destroying chemicals from entering the organism. Like yellow algae, black strains can bloom even in the presence of normal sanitizing levels and proper filtration. I was once told that this form of algae commonly enters a pool inside the swimsuit of a person who’s recently been to the ocean.

Pink Algae: Not really an algae at all, but a form of bacteria. Appears as spots or streaks in corners and crevices. It is slow to spread and rare that it will bloom over an entire pool.

How is algae prevented?

Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. high pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth. Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony.

The use of specialty chemicals or algaecides is recommended to provide a back up to normal sanitation and filtration processes and is completely necessary for many pools. These chemicals are described below:

Potassium Tetraborate: This chemical, when added to the pool water in proper dosage, prevents algae from converting carbon dioxide into the fuel it needs for growth. Manufactured under the trade name Proteam Supreme. An extraordinary product.

Chitin: Not an algaecide (meaning to kill algae) per se, but its properties might be called algaestatic (that is, to prevent algae growth). Chitin has the ability to coagulate and remove a wide variety of suspended materials and impurities from the water. This allows the sanitizer to more effectively kill contaminants unobstructed. It also improves the effectiveness of the filtration equipment. Sold under the trade name Sea-Klear, chitin can be a valuable weapon in your algae arsenal.

Algaecides and Algaestats:

Quaternary Ammonium Compounds:

A low grade type of algaecide, Quats, as they are called, will usually have “10″ somewhere on the bottle, representing 10% active ingredient. Although available at a lower cost, quats tend to produce a small amount of surface foaming. They are most effective as an algaestat, that is, as a prevention, not a cure.

Polymers:

Polymers are long, complicated chemical chains that behave in water both as an algaestat and an algaecide. They are available in percentage strength of 30 - 60%, are non foaming, and work well as general, all around algae treatments. Poly-Quats are a blended compound of polymer and quats.

Copper Based:

Copper is a proven algaecide and algaestat. Available in varying non foaming strength of 3 - 10%. It works very well on all types of algae, but it has the drawback of staining white plaster surfaces a light blue/green color if it precipitates out of solution. Most copper based algaecides are chelated, which means that agents have been added to prevent this, such as Lo-Chlor Algaecide.

Silver Based:

Silver has been shown to be an effective bacteriostat, which means that it works to prevent bacteria from reproducing. Non foaming and effective with pink algae. In high doses, reactions with sunlight can cause colloidal silver to deposit as black stains on white plaster. When using copper or silver algaecides, the use of a sequestering agent is recommended.

Chlorine Enhancers:

These are not algaecides, but work to provide a synergistic boost to hypochlorites when added separately, but at the same time. Sold under trade names like Mustard Buster, Yellow-Out or Yellow Treat, it is most effective on, you guessed it, yellow algae. Since it is not an algaecide, the makers are not required to tell what it is made of, but we do know that it works quite well, in conjunction with a little brushing and vacuuming on your part.

Too late to prevent it…How do I kill algae?

First off, find a pool specialist on Repairfinders.com who will balance your water, paying particular attention to pH. Secondly, they will check your filter system and clean if necessary. Adjust valving for optimum circulation and allow it to run 24 hours a day until the pool clears. Turn on automatic cleaners to help stir things up. Backwash as necessary.

For suspended green algae, shock the pool…hard. Put in as much hypochlorite as it takes to turn the pool a cloudy, bluish/gray color. Brush the walls and floors towards the main drain. Backwash the filter when the pressure gauge indicates the need (8 - 10 lbs. above clean reading, after backwashing.) Using a flocculent may be a good choice if the pool is extremely “swampy”. If you cannot see the bottom of the pool, and it is filled with leaves and debris, it may be wise to drain the pool, acid wash and refill it.

After the chlorine level has come down below 5 ppm, add an algaecide and brush the pool again. When it all settles, vacuum the pool (to waste, if possible). Check and re-balance the pool water if necessary.

For algae which is not suspended, but only clinging to the walls, follow the same advice above, first shock with brushing, then add an algaecide, brush again, vacuum to waste (preferred) or vacuum and then backwash the filter. Use of a steel bristled brush is recommended for algae on plaster pools (use nylon brush on vinyl). Filter, Filter, Filter!

For black algae, the brushing part is very important. You must tear through the protective layers so the chemicals can destroy the plant from the inside out. Pumice stones work well to knock off the heads of black algae. (Don’t forget to vacuum them up later, and backwash them out of the filter ASAP). Also effective on the black algae nodules is sprinkling granular trichlor over the spots (of course if they’re on the wall this is next to impossible). Rubbing the spots on the walls with a trichlor tablet or stick can also be effective to knock off the heads and get trichlor directly to the roots. Follow up with a dose of copper algaecide, or high strength polymers. Simazine, an herbicide, was a very effective black algae treatment, but is no longer available in America.

If algae has been an ongoing problem in your pool for several years, you may do well to drain the pool. Many years of algae builds up dead algae cells and lots of other solids in the water that contribute to its rejuvenation. Acid washing and/or pressure washing is preferable once drained, to kill the roots of the algae embedded in the plaster. NEXT: Change the sand if you have a sand filter or change the cartridge if it is a cartridge type. Sand should be changed every 5 - 7 yrs (or every 2 if you use Baquacil), and cartridge filters should have new elements every 1 - 2 years. If you have a D.E. filter (good for you!), you should remove the elements, spray clean, soak in a 10 : 1 water/ bleach solution, rinse and replace. A well functioning filter will prevent algae.

Another item to look at is the method of sanitation and the type of filtering you have. Far too many pools out there were sold with marginal filter systems, meant to run 24 hrs per day. Well, these systems get old and tired, or the new owners only run it 12 hrs per day (or less). For good algae prevention, we need a combination of good filtration, sanitation and circulation. It may be time to consider changing the old pump and filter. It’s cheaper and easier to pay a little up front for more chemicals, electricity or better equipment than all the money and aggravation spent on fighting algae blooms.

Find the perfect person to paint the int...

repairfinder — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 22:39:28 +0200

Paint Types in House Painting

Choosing your paint is probably the most important thing you will do on your project. This is because most paints are designed for a specific purpose. Primer paints are designed to adhere to raw surfaces and then to stick to a protective coat over the top of it. In general, there are four types of raw surfaces that you might want to paint over, wood, masonry, drywall, and bare metal. You should be able to find a primer that will work on your bare surface. Do not be tempted to simply skip the primer coat as finish paints will sometimes not stick well to the surface, especially metals.

The big question for many painters is whether they should use oil or water based paints. Glossy oils tend to be more impermeable to water and will bubble up if the surface beneath is damp. Latex and other water based paints will make wallpaper peel. Industry experts have argued for a long time over which formula is better in general. For exterior applications, water-based paints have the upper hand. Besides allowing the house to breathe, they tend not to crack as readily. In addition, they have the great advantage of water clean up. In addition, if you are worried about the ultimate environmental impact, water-based paints tend to be friendlier to the eco-system. Oil paints usually have a stronger and more overpowering odor. You should always ventilate well when painting, but it will seem even more vital with oil-based paints.

Even so, oil is often the choice to make, especially when painting over a surface that was previously painted with an oil base. If you simply must use a water-based paint over an oil-based paint, you should sand down the finish then prime it so that the paints will adhere to each other.

Although the price is not always the best indicator of quality, it does serve as a good general guideline. Also, the warrantee on paint will indicate how long it is likely to last. Remember that even inexpensive paint is relatively cheap when compared to the amount of time it takes to apply it. Better to have a durable paint that lasts a few extra years than a cheap one that gives out in less than five years.

Pigments in paints also make a difference. Cheaper paints often have cheaper pigments, so they tend not to cover as well, requiring more than one coat. Here again labor is a factor. Two coats of a paint that costs you half as much, is really only doubling your labor. Yellows tend to be the fastest fading color. Titanium dioxide is reported to be the best pigment. If you are buying an expensive paint, be sure to check the can for this ingredient.

Solids are included in paints to thicken the coating. It is calculated as the percentage of the paint that finally adheres to the wall. Solids generally run more than 40 percent of the paint. Higher than 45 is considered good. Do not look for this item on the can, as it is not usually on the label. The solids and pigment are held together with binders. In an acrylic paint, you will want to have all-acrylic binders for exterior paint. For interior paints, this factor is not as important.

Oil and acrylic will both cover most exterior surfaces, but stucco is a special case. Be sure to use an elastomeric paint, which continues to cover small cracks that can develop. Old aluminum siding can be painted. The old paint should be removed and a coat of latex primer and an additional coat or two of exterior paint can then be applied for an acceptable and durable finish.

When you go into the paint store, you will be confronted with flat, satin, and glossy paints. You should use flat for general background surfaces that are not subject to much wear and tear. Satin is better in bathrooms and kitchens where you would like to be able to clean the surface repeatedly over the years. Glossy paints accentuate a surface and bring people’s attention to it. It also tends to be easier to wipe clean. Use glossy paints on cabinets, banisters, some molding and places where little fingers are constantly smudging. Remember, though glossy paints are easier to clean, they tend to show imperfections in wood, drywall, etc.

It probably goes without saying that you should use exterior paints outside and interior paints on the inside. The fact is that exterior paints are designed to be more durable in the elements and interior paints are designed to adhere better to surfaces commonly found indoors. Recent years have brought about advancements in eco-friendly paints with zero or low VOCs. These are worth checking into especially for those who have health concerns or who frequently work with paint.

If you are looking for a hardworking, reliable, and trustworthy person to paint the interior or exterior of your home, the only place to search is on Repairfinders.com. On this site it will only take you a couple of minutes to find a qualified professional in your area who is more than happy to paint your home, quickly, efficiently, and for a reasonable price. For all your repair needs there is only one place to go, and that is Repairfinders.com

Skylights, saving you energy and money w...

repairfinder — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 20:32:26 +0200

Nearly everyone likes skylights. They let in light and warmth, provide a convenient place to hang indoor plants, and simply brighten up an entire room. Properly installed, roof skylights can add a touch of class to even a rather drab kitchen, bathroom or other room in your house. However, old and leaking, or incorrectly installed roof skylights are a never-ending nightmare that will have you swearing never to have another skylight in your house.

Skylights come in many shapes and sizes, and may be traditional glass or the lighter weight vinyl skylight with plastic glazing. They can be flat or domed, and you can combine multiple skylights for a lighting effect that will reduce your utility bill. Even if you have an attic, you can still have skylights in the form of tubular skylights, which use long metal tubes-also called “sun tunnels” to reflect the light down into your room.

When you purchase a skylight, it will usually come with everything needed to install it except the tools and the carpenter. The smaller skylights, especially the tubular skylights, look deceptively easy to install, but we do not recommend installing them yourself. You might pay a professional a few hundred dollars to do it right, but cutting a hole in your roof is not something for an amateur to do. If you accidentally cut in just slightly the wrong place, cut the hole the wrong size, seal the flashing incorrectly, or damage any of your roof tiles in the process, you will wish you had never thought about skylights. In addition, if a skylight leaks, you cannot only end up replacing your roof, but also the ceiling beneath it along with the insulation or anything else that the water was able to reach. Correctly installed, however, a skylight will be as stable and dependable as the rest of your roof, and you will enjoy the ambiance for many years.

The following tips will help you find the right skylight and the right contractor to put them in your home.

Consider the design and location of your home. If you are in a southern climate, you probably will not want skylights on the south side of the house unless you also install some sort of reflective blinds. Otherwise, you will have both light and heat, driving your air conditioning bill up during the summer. In colder climates with more moderate summers, the blinds are and option.

Ask the contractor for references. How many other skylights has he installed? Try to contact people who have used his services and look at their skylights. If you cannot arrange an opportunity to inspect installed skylights in other homes, at least get some reactions from other customers. Would they use that contractor again?

What warranty is offered? If there is any problem with the skylight once it has been installed, will the contractor return to fix it? For how long? What is the warranty on the skylight itself if it happens to be defective? (Although it can happen, a leaking skylight is seldom the result of defective material. Ninety percent of the time, a leaking skylight is the result of improper installation or of taking shortcuts in an attempt to save time and money.)

If you already have a skylight and just need to replace it-and there is no need to replace the roof itself-the task will be simpler and less expensive. If you are installing a new skylight, it will obviously cost more. However, save up the money and have it done correctly the first time. You will never regret erring on the side of caution.

By letting natural light stream in, skylights fill rooms with warmth and a feeling of spaciousness. By reducing the need for electric lighting and adding winter warmth, they help trim energy bills. Moreover, clear ones give you a window to the starry night sky.

A skylight is like a window in the roof, but its frame is designed and flashed to withstand the rigors of rainfall that a roof receives. As shown here, a skylight’s flashing works in concert with the roofing material to usher away rain and snow.

Newer skylights are virtually leak-free, thanks to rugged construction and easy-to-install, integral flashings. They are also equipped with channels that carry away condensation.

Though some frames are solid wood or aluminum, most new skylights are made of a combination of metal, vinyl and wood. The exterior frames tend to be aluminum cladding with a durable finish–the part you see inside is often made of solid wood, plywood or white vinyl.

Some skylights are glazed with acrylic or polycarbonate, others with glass. Plastic ones are lightweight, economical choices often put where a skylight could be easily broken. Because they are molded, they come only in standard sizes and shapes: flat rectangles, bubbles, domes, pyramids, ridge-shaped, dormer models, and so forth.

Many people prefer Glass because it does not scratch as readily as plastic does and because it is available in nearly limitless sizes and types. You can get single, double or triple glazing with energy-saving low-E glass or argon-gas-filled panes. For use where the sun may damage carpets and furniture with ultra-violet (UV) rays, you can get bronze-tinted or other UV-blocking glass.

Other options for eliminating or reducing the sun when it is not wanted include built-in blinds, horizontal curtains or shades and UV-blocking insect screens. Cross-section view of a glass skylight shows key parts and how the flashing provides continuous drainage down the roof. A skylight’s shaft governs how light is delivered to the room below. If all four sides are flared, light spreads over a wide area. A shaft with perpendicular sides focuses the light straight below. If the shaft is flared on only one or two sides, it sprays more light in the flared direction.

If you are interested in getting skylights in your home, the best place to look is on Repairfinders.com. On this site, many contractors in your area are willing to assist you with this. Remember not only does having a skylight help the environment, but it also save you money, gives you beautiful natural light, makes rooms look larger, and adds to the quality of your property.

Water’s natural beauty preptuated throug...

repairfinder — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 20:43:32 +0200

A traditional fountain is an arrangement where water issues from a source, fills a basin of some kind, and is drained away. Fountains may be wall fountains or freestanding. In fountains, sheets of water may flow over varied surfaces of stone, concrete or metal. Basins may overflow from one into another, or the overflow may imitate a natural cascade. Many fountains are located in small, artificial, ornamental ponds, basins and formal garden pools, and often they include sculpture.

One of the most common features of a fountain, if there is enough pressure, is one or more jets, in which water is forced into the air under pressure to some height. A famous example of such a modern fountain rises from the surface of Lake Geneva.

Early fountains depended on the natural gravitational flow of water, from a spring or aqueduct supplied by a distant and higher source of water, which provided hydraulic head.

Hellenistic hydraulic engineers employed great originality in designing fountains, where the water pressure might be employed to animate automata and water organs.

Iraqi engineer and inventor al-Jazari first described reciprocating motion in 1206 when the kings of the Artuqid dynasty in Turkey commissioned him to manufacture a machine to raise water for their palaces. The finest result was a machine called the double-acting reciprocating piston pump, which translated rotary motion to reciprocating motion via the crankshaft-connecting rod mechanism.

Other early fountains were geometrically regularized springs, developed in the classic Persian garden. These gardens were typically enclosed and were designed to provide relaxation. The effect of sunlight was the main concern regarding the structural aspect of the Persian garden design. Shapes and textures were specifically chosen for their ability to direct sunlight. In the 16th century, elaborate fountain displays were garden features of Mannerist gardens of Central Italy and the Mughal gardens of India.

Early Modern English employed fountain to refer to a natural spring water or source, which the 16th century garden fountain might consciously imitate in a grotto.

Christian allegory made much use of the concept of the fountain, specifically the Fountain of Life, associated with the rebirth that was intended to be experienced at the Baptismal font. The Fountain of Life appears in Christian illuminated manuscripts of Late Antiquity, and elaborate Gothic fountains formed centerpieces for enclosed gardens. An offshoot of the Fountain of Life was the legend of the Fountain of Youth, which Juan Ponce de León sought in Florida. From the Fountain of Youth one can drink to gain immortality, or to regain one’s youth.

The practical Romans marked the delivery end of aqueducts with a public fountain, a practice that was revived in Rome in the 15th century, when the restored Aqua Felice once more delivered a symbolic presentation of its waters to Rome in the original Trevi Fountain, since replaced by the familiar Baroque fusion of water, architecture and sculpture.

Animated fountains often use laminar jets that provide water that moves like ping pong balls in animation, so that it breaks up, as the height varies, and the behavior of each jet operates independently with up to 5 Hz modulation frequency (1/5 second), so that the water packets collide with themselves. For example, such fountains can spit up one ball of water, which then explodes, showering people with a fine mist.

A musical fountain is a type of fountain that dances in time with recorded or live music, controlled either by a computer or by a live “organist” operating the fountain through a switchboard. Notable examples of this are fountains on Vasilievsky Island in St. Petersburg, Russia, and the fountains of the Bellagio in the Las Vegas Strip.

A splash fountain or bathing fountain is a fountain intended for people to cool off in. Although many fountains were not designed as bathing fountains, children of all ages often use them for that purpose. Some fountains are fenced in, or have raised edges as a barricade to keep people out. In other situations, fountains are designed to allow easy access, and feature nonslip surfaces, so that people can safely use them to cool off in on hot summer days.

Splash fountains have zero standing water, to eliminate possible drowning hazards, so that no lifeguards or supervision is required. These splash pads are often located in public pools, public parks, or public playgrounds (known as “spray grounds”).

A recent example of a public splash fountain, intended for water play, is the one located in Toronto’s Dundas Square. It consists of 600 ground nozzles arranged in groups of 30 (3 rows of 10 nozzles). Each group of 30 nozzles is located beneath a stainless steel grille. Twenty such grilles are arranged in 2 rows of 10, right in the middle of the main walkway through Dundas Square. Both the architects and the designers have confirmed that these were intended for water play, and the facility operators have confirmed that the water is treated to pool water quality standards, and that the health department tests the water quality, at least once a day. The entire surface of Dundas Square is made of special nonslip square granite slabs that match the size of the metal grilles. The special texture on the slabs ensures that they are not slippery when wet.

Spray fountains are designed to serve as a play area where children (and sometimes adults) can run around and cool off under a canopy of water. Spray fountains are becoming popular in areas where the construction of public pools is difficult or costly, such as urban areas. However, spray fountains can also be used to enhance a pool’s surrounding play area.

A water fountain or drinking fountain is designed to provide drinking water and has a basin arrangement with either continuously running water or a tap. Modern indoor drinking fountains may incorporate filters to remove impurities from the water and chillers to reduce its temperature. In some regional dialects, water fountains are referred to as bubblers. Water fountains are usually found in public places, like schools, rest areas and grocery stores. Many jurisdictions require water fountains to be wheelchair accessible (by sticking out horizontally from the wall), and to include an additional unit of a lower height for children and short adults. The design that this replaced often had one spout atop a refrigeration unit.

In modern fountains, the traditional gravitational pressure from an unseen reservoir at a higher level is not always practical. In many circumstances fountains obtain their water from a closed, recirculating system that must still be filled at the start from the local water supply system and also topped up through its life to offset the effects of evaporation. Allowance must also be made to handle overflow in the case of heavy rain.

The pressure that causes water to move through the fountain may be produced instead by a motor-driven (often-submersible electric) pump. “Static head” is useful to quantify this pressure.

A water filter, typically a media filter, removes particles from the water — this filter requires its own pump to force water through it and plumbing to remove the water from the pool to the filter and then back to the pool. The water may need chlorination or anti-algal treatment, or may use biological methods to filter and clean water.

The pumps, filter, electrical switch box and plumbing controls are often housed in a “plant room”. Low-voltage lighting, typically 12-volt direct current, is used to minimize electrical hazards. Lighting is often submerged and must be suitably designed. Floating fountains are also popular for ponds and lakes they consist of a float pump nozzle and water chamber.

Many civic fountains in public parks are commissioned in commemoration of either national or public figures.

There are also some limited fountain day celebrations. The University at Albany hosts an annual “Fountain Day,” a day on which the university community comes together to celebrate the arrival of spring and the near-end of the semester. Drawing large crowds, the fountain-centered event creates something akin to an urban beach.

A hydraulophone is a fountain that can be played as a musical instrument. These fountains are like woodwind instruments, but using water instead of air. The embouchure of the instrument occurs at the finger holes (referred to as “mouths”). Hydraulophones often have multiple “mouths”, so that a player can put each finger into a different mouth at the same time, in order to play chords, while independently manipulating each finger for separate and individual control of the embouchure of each note in a chord. A skilled hydraulist can slightly “bend” each note in order to play just intonation in any desired key, or to gently and fluidly vary intonation or temperament as a piece of music changes from one key to another.

There is a need for good water quality in contemporary fountains, regardless of their avowed intended use. Regardless of the fact that some fountains are designed and built not as bathing fountains, but are rather used simply as architectural decor, people will often drink from, bathe or wash their hands in any fountain. Additionally, fountain spray can contain legionella bacteria and has been linked to Legionnaires ‘disease outbreaks. Therefore, minimum water quality standards are necessary, regardless of intended use. Guidelines have been developed for control of legionella in ornamental fountains.

In theory, a freestanding water feature should not have a bather load, and consequently, many builders would not choose to install filters or sanitation devices. In reality, however, people will interact with ornamental water fountains in the most surprising ways. In Disneyland, for example, people have been reported to change their babies’ diapers and then wash their hands in the water fountain (thus adding unexpected bacteria and organics into the water).

In July 1997, an outbreak of cryptosporidiosis was connected to an ornamental fountain at the Minnesota Zoo, which did not have proper filtration and water treatment. Children played in fountains and swallowed water, and spurted the water out of their mouths to mimic the way nozzles in the fountain spurted the water. It was therefore necessary to put a fence around the fountain to keep people away.

In the United States fountain operators and owners are legally liable for failure to either fence-in fountains, or to properly filter, chlorinate or otherwise treat the water, if the fountains are not fenced in. If the water is unsafe, fences must be designed to keep people far enough away, so that they cannot touch the water, otherwise children get water on their hands, put their fingers into their mouths, and end up getting sick, thus subjecting owners and operators to legal liability.

If you are interested in adding a fountain to your home or office, Repairfinders.com is the perfect place for you. With many qualified professionals in your area, it will only take a couple of minutes to find the right person for you. Not only will a fountain bring you peace and entertainment it will also bring elegance to your home office.

Do you know the difference between Cemen...

repairfinder — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 20:47:36 +0200

Today is such a beautiful day! I have always found Thursdays to be a bit boring, but today is such a nice day. I figured that since I am in such a good mood, we could do something “educational”. Instead of giving you the inside scoop today, I am going to give you information. Doesn’t that sound fun? Well let us get to it. Be prepared to learn a lot, because I know you do not know much about cement.

Many people talk about cement when they mean concrete.

Cement is a fine-grained compound that turns into a solid when mixed with water. Cement is used to bind mixtures of materials into a composite solid.

Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand and gravel. That is, cement is the glue of concrete. Now that we have made that clear, let us talk about cement. Cement begins with lime.

Lime, the First Cement

Lime is a substance used since ancient times to make useful things like plaster and mortar. Lime is made by burning, or calcining, limestone-and that is how limestone gets its name. Chemically, lime is calcium oxide (CaO) and is made by roasting calcite (CaCO3) to drive off carbon dioxide (CO2). That CO2, a greenhouse gas, is produced in great quantities by the cement industry.

Lime is also called quicklime or calx (from Latin, where we also get the word calcium). In old murder mysteries, quicklime is sprinkled on victims to dissolve their bodies because it is very caustic.

Mixed with water, lime slowly turns into the mineral portlandite in the reaction CaO + H2O = Ca(OH)2. Lime is generally slaked, that is, mixed with an excess of water so it stays fluid. Slaked lime continues to harden over a period of weeks. Mixed with sand and other ingredients, slaked lime cement can be packed between stones or bricks in a wall (as mortar) or spread over the surface of a wall (as render or plaster). There, over the next several weeks or even years, it reacts with CO2 in the air to form calcite again-artificial limestone!

Concrete made with lime cement is known from archaeological sites in both the New and Old World, some more than 5000 years old. It works extremely well in dry conditions. It has two drawbacks: Lime cement takes a long time to cure, and while the ancient world had lots of time, today time is money.

Lime cement does not harden in water but stays soft, that is, it is not a hydraulic cement. So, there are many situations where it cannot be used.

Ancient Hydraulic Cement

The Pyramids of Egypt are said to contain a hydraulic cement based on dissolved silica. If that 4500-year-old formula can be confirmed and revived, it would be a great thing. However, today’s cement has a different pedigree that is still quite ancient.

Around 1000 BCE, the ancient Greeks were the first to have a lucky accident, mixing lime with fine volcanic ash. Ash can be thought of as naturally calcined rock, leaving silicon in a chemically active state like the calcium in calcined limestone. When this lime-ash mixture is slaked, a completely new substance is formed: calcium silicate hydrate or what cement chemists call C-S-H (approximately SiCa2O4 · xH2O).

C-S-H is still a mysterious substance today, but we know it is an amorphous gel without any set crystalline structure. It hardens fast, even in water. In addition, it is more durable than lime cement.

The ancient Greeks put this new cement to use in new and valuable ways, building concrete cisterns that survive to this day. But Roman engineers mastered the technology and constructed seaports, aqueducts and temples of concrete as well. Some of these structures are as good as ever today, two thousand years later. However, the formula for Roman cement was lost with the fall of the Roman Empire.

Modern Hydraulic Cement

While lime cement continued in use throughout the Dark and Middle Ages, true hydraulic cement was not rediscovered until the late 1700s. English and French experimenters learned that a calcined mixture of limestone and claystone could be made into hydraulic cement. One English version was dubbed “Portland cement” for its resemblance to the white limestone of the Isle of Portland, and the name soon extended to all cement made by this process.

Shortly thereafter, American makers found clay-bearing limestone’s that yielded excellent hydraulic cement with little or no processing. This cheap natural cement made up the bulk of American concrete for most of the 1800s, and most of it came from the town of Rosendale in southern New York.

Rosendale was practically a generic name for natural cement, although other manufacturers were in Pennsylvania, Indiana and Kentucky. Rosendale cement is in the Brooklyn Bridge, the U.S. Capitol building, most 19th-century military buildings, the base of the Statue of Liberty and many other places. With the rising need to maintain historic structures using historically appropriate materials, Rosendale natural cement is being revived.

True Portland cement slowly gained popularity in America as standards advanced and the pace of building quickened. Portland cement is more expensive, but it can be made anywhere the ingredients can be assembled instead of relying on a lucky rock formation. It also cures faster, an advantage when building skyscrapers a floor at a time. Today’s default cement is some version of Portland cement.

Modern Portland Cement

Today limestone and clay-containing rocks are sintered-roasted together at nearly melting temperature-at 1400° to 1500°C. The product is a lumpy mixture of stable compounds called clinker. Clinker contains iron (Fe) and aluminum (Al) as well as silicon and calcium, in four main compounds:

Alite (Ca3SiO5)
Belite (Ca2SiO4), known to geologists as larnite
Aluminate (Ca3Al2O6)
Ferrite (Ca2AlFeO5)

Clinker is ground to powder and mixed with a small amount of gypsum, which slows down the hardening process. And that is Portland cement.

Making Concrete

Cement is mixed with water, sand and gravel to make concrete. Pure cement is useless because it shrinks and cracks; it is also much more expensive than sand and gravel. As the mixture cures, four main substances are produced:

C-S-H
Portlandite
Ettringite (Ca6Al2(SO4)3(OH)12 26H2O; includes some Fe)
Monosulfate ([Ca2(Al,Fe)(OH)6] (SO4,OH,etc) xH2O)

The details of all this are an intricate specialty, making concrete as sophisticated a technology as anything in your computer. Yet basic concrete mix is practically stupid proof, simple enough for you and me to use. You see though we are smarter than that, we will not go around messing with cement and concrete mixes, because we know we should leave that to the professionals. So if you need a professional, check out repairfinders.com where they have only the best in the business, and you will never be let down. Jack is over and out.

I know where you can find a great plumbe...

repairfinder — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:16:24 +0200

I used to lay awake at night listening to the slow drip, drip, drip of my leaky bathroom faucet. I used to unclog my toilet 2, 3, 4 times a day! Once, I had no idea that running hot water even existed. I know I am not the only one out there with this problem. However, you do not have to go another day with a plumbing problem. Why do I say this you ask? Well, you know me; good ol’ Jack is here with the solution! You can find dozens of plumber listed right before you at Repairfinders.com

You no longer have to worry about frozen pipes, a slow drain, or a running toilet. With a click of your mouse to Repairfinders.com, you can see listings for plumbers in your area. If you are not sure about which service to choose, do not fret about it. I have made finding the right man for the job, easy and effective. You can send out an email to as many of our listings as you want, and they will get back to you on what they can do about your issue, how long it will take, and how much it will cost you. It really is just that simple!

You see, at Repairfinders.com we are dedicated to providing you the best service with the best plumbers in the industry. We will find someone who will fix those leaking pipes under your kitchen sink in hours, not days. Moreover, if you cannot find anyone I will come out there and fix them myself. So instead of trying to fix that showerhead, unclog those drains, or caulk your bathroom fixtures, find someone who is reliable, honest, and efficient, find someone like me on Repairfinders.com

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repairfinder — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:15:43 +0200

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repairfinder — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:14:50 +0200

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